Experiences in the Beverin Nature Park: Capricorn, Capuns, canyoning

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From the barren, tallest Iranian directly into the lush green mountains of the Beverin Nature Park. Exactly two days after my return from trekking in Iran, I packed hiking boots and outdoor clothing into my backpack again and made my way to Graubünden – so that I don’t get out of practice when it comes to mountain air. In addition to the Swiss National Park, which stretches over 170^km2 in the Engadine, there are other areas in the canton of Graubünden that are committed to the preservation and strengthening of their special natural and cultural landscapes within the framework of Regional Nature Parks. These include the UNESCO World Heritage Site Tectonic Arena Sardona, the UNESCO Reserve da Biosfera Val Müstair, the Beverin Nature Park and the Parc Ela. Behind these abstract names are beautiful valleys, inspiring mountain scenery and many exciting stories. And that’s why I’m happy to be able to give you an insight into these park landscapes in cooperation with Graubünden Parcs. As a prelude, we have set our sights on the Beverin Nature Park, which stretches over four valleys from Thusis to the Safien Valley. In this article there are five selected experience tips between Heinzenberg and Schams – I dedicate an extra report to the Safiental, because otherwise it would lead to a massive overload of pictures.

#1 Glaspass adventure trail between Piz Beverin and Heinzenberg

After a short stopover at the train station Thusis, where the guest information of Viamala Tourism is located, we first head for the glass pass between Piz Beverin and Heinzenberg. For a long time, this was the main connection from the remote Safiental to Domleschg. While we are still puzzling over the origin of the name “glass pass” down in the valley, a few hours later we learn on the newly opened adventure trail that the word has its origin in the Latin “clausum” (closed). Since the end of June this year, the exciting history of settlement by the Walser and the geological features of the Glass Pass have been explained on a seven-kilometre-long circular trail by means of information boards and installations. A varied hiking trail that takes us between mystical wafts of fog first to the heights of the Glasergrat and then leads over hill and dale down to the drained Lüschersee. Without further ado, we decide to take an absolutely worthwhile additional loop to Lake Pascumin. The weather supports our plans with a loosening of the cloud layer and oh – even the sun peeks out from behind the clouds.

An entertaining, family-friendly hike, which is not stingy with beautiful views of the Piz Beverin and the Safien Valley even in less than ideal weather conditions. Later we stop at the mountain inn Beverin, where we are served a wonderful nature park menu (with a fine Dexterrind biscuit from a farm in Tschappina). Various restaurants in the Beverin Nature Park offer these special menus with selected products directly from the nature park farmer or the alpine farms – it’s worth it! Later, two floors above the dining room, we lie down in a pleasantly warm, soft bed. Berggasthaus Beverin offers charming double rooms with shared showers. I was particularly taken with the creaking wooden floor and the great view of the Biz Beverin.

#2 Canyoning in the Viamala

After a hearty breakfast, the next morning the journey takes us from the Beverin mountain inn on the glass pass down the valley to Thusis. And from there on to the notorious Viamala. Since I already know them from the “normal” perspective of the visitor center, I wanted to get to know them from a different angle this time – from the water. And although I was initially determined not to lose heart until the end, I finally pinched myself. Shame on me! The friend was much more adventurous than me, squeezed into the tight wetsuit together with the guys from Swissraft and jumped with a loud splash into the icy cold waters between the 300 m high rising rock flanks. Canyoning in the Viamala is technically easy and does not involve abseiling, but only single jumps and is definitely a worthwhile adventure for all water lovers.

#3 A visit to the Capuns-Factory Zillis

Since the friend had definitely earned the refreshment after three hours in the water, the division of roles at our next stage stop was crystal clear. Less than a ten-minute drive from the Viamala, Andreetta Schwarz wraps Capuns every day at the Alte Post Zillis restaurant. She ships her award-winning chard wraps throughout Switzerland with her Capuns Factory. And now instruct me in the secrets of capuns making. Whereby she makes it clear right away that I will not receive a prescription from her. Nevertheless, this much can be revealed: According to Andreetta Schwarz, the most important thing is good basic products. She only uses coppa from alpine pigs and air-dried salsiz in Splügen. I turn out to be a suitable worker and manage to produce a wrap weighing exactly 50g in almost every attempt. After about an hour, I have prepared five fresh capuns each for the friend and me. While they are simmering merrily, we use the time for a short detour to the church of St. Martin in Zillis, where we admire the well-known ceiling paintings. With growling stomachs we return to the Alte Post, where two portions of hot steaming capuns are already waiting for us. What a delicacy!

#4 In the footsteps of the Capricorn in the Beverin Nature Park

From Zillis we follow the serpentines towards Schamserberg on the south-eastern flank of Piz Beverin. Together with hunter Magnasch Michael, we set off in search of the Graubünden heraldic animal. There are about 380 animals in the ibex colony around Piz Beverin. And I sincerely hope that we will meet the unsung heroes of the nature park. At first I can hardly tear my eyes away from this wildly beautiful mountain world with the fascinating grey horns on the horizon. “Wow, it’s beautiful up here!” Soon after, Magnasch spotted a group of ibexes at Piz Tarantschun. Curious, we watch the animals through the telescope and then approach them via the Carnusa Pass. We successfully stalk up to 200 m up to the ibexes until they spot us and gallantly retreat into the air.

#5 Sleep better in Mathon

Back from the wildlife excursion, our second day in the Beverin Nature Park ends with a fine dinner at the Pensiun Laresch in Mathon. The small, fine mountain lodge belongs on the bucket list of all architecture lovers. The modern building meets the latest building ecology and energy requirements and stands in exciting contrast to the mountains. The large windows allow the interior and exterior to merge. All around, there are wonderful views of the larch forests and the idyllic town centre of Mathon. By the way, children are just as welcome here as bikers and cyclists.

Practical tips – Experiences in the Beverin Nature Park:

• The ViaSpluga stage 1 from Thusis to Andeer combines our experiences at the Viamala with the Capuns stop in Zillis at Andreetta Schwarz
• The Viamala Visitor Centre is open every day from April to November
• Canyoning through the Viamala lasts 3 hours and costs 149 CHF (More info: Swissraft)
• The wildlife excursion starting in Wergenstein takes place in July and August on Thursdays from 3:00 p.m. and lasts about four hours.
• An alternative accommodation to Pensiun Laresch is offered by the Hotel Capricorns Wergenstein (where the Center da Capricorns is also located)
• More information and current events can be found on the website of Viamala Tourism