Äscher hike: Berggasthaus Äscher – Seealpsee

For some time now, countless pictures of the Aescher mountain inn have been circulating in the Internet world. Again and again it appears on lists that present spectacular places. For me, this was the impetus to finally visit the tradition-conscious half-canton of Appenzell Innerrhoden. I hadn’t gone any further than Herisau into the Appenzell region. But where to go first? For Appenzell beginners like me, the Ebenalp with the Wildkirchli and the adjacent mountain restaurant Aescher as well as the idyllic Seealpsee is an ideal starting point to explore the magnificent Alpstein landscape.

High up – start of the hike on Ebenalp

Our first day in Appenzellerland starts with a leisurely train ride from Gossau via Appenzell to Wasserauen. From here you can take the Ebenalpbahn up to the top. With us there are numerous paragliders in the cable car this afternoon. Outside, a dream weather with a light wind beckons. Once at the top, we first tackle the few meters of altitude to above the Ebenalp restaurant. The ridge offers a spectacular view over to the Hohe Kasten and down to the turquoise shimmering Seealpsee. Before we tackle the 12-minute walk to the Wildkirchli, which lasts exactly 12 minutes (Swiss precision can even be seen in the hiking time, as my Austrian companion aptly remarks), we watch the paragliders gliding gracefully in the wind with a slight longing.

Hike to the Wildkirchli and Berggasthaus Äscher

The hiking trail leads with a slight slope past contentedly grazing cows and offers beautiful views of the green hilly landscape peppered with scattered settlements. Typical of the Appenzell region. The Wildkirchli, a cave chapel founded in 1621 by a Capuchin priest, can be reached through the Wildkirchli caves. We leave the sun behind us for a short moment and dive into the dark and cool cave world.

As soon as we reach the other end of the cave, we have the Wildkirchli, one of the most popular excursion destinations in the region, in view. From here, the path leads east along the rock face, over a wooden gallery and around a rock edge until after a few moments the Äscher mountain inn appears in front of us. Undeniably, the mountain restaurant is located in an imposing location. Built directly on the rock face of the Ebenalp, it offers panoramic views of the Alpstein. Of course, we stop and take photos like crazy. We have now convinced ourselves with our own eyes that the Äscher impresses not only in the photos, but also in reality. Since the day is already quite advanced, there is not enough time to linger on the terrace and taste the famous cave meringues. By the way, the mountain inn Aescher also offers a dormitory for up to 40 people, only the shower has to be dispensed with.

Hike Berggasthaus Aescher – Seealpsee

After the Aescher mountain inn, we take the direct route towards Seealpsee. In contrast to the first section of the trail from Ebenalp to Wildkirchli, this section requires good concentration. In tight curves, the narrow path winds down the steep slope. The attached sign “Children on a leash” (no joke) is nevertheless slightly exaggerated. With good surefootedness, the path is doable without major problems and it is only exposed in a few places. Otherwise, there are gently sloping mats or forest areas to the left and right. For the section from Aescher to Seealpsee, please note the further information in the route description.

Our intermediate destination is the Seealp on the southwestern shore of the Seealpsee. Here, at the foot of the mighty Säntis, we encounter a picture-book Alpine idyll. We are greeted by a high-spirited Appenzell Mountain Dog, who is happy about my cuddles, and goats who eye us teasingly. Dairyman Hans Gmünder and his wife produce the Seealpchäs on the alp. In addition, goat cheese and butter are also produced. Hikers are welcome to take a look at the cheese cellar. In addition, the Seealp trumps with a special feature. With the warm whey, a warm whey bath is prepared daily. If you register in time, up to three people can enjoy a unique wellness experience at the same time. The magnificent view of the mountains and a piece of alpine cheese are included in the price of 80 CHF for two people.

As soon as we arrive, we are fully integrated into alpine life and watch how the goats are milked, take care of the two lively children, can hardly get enough of the young kitten, drink fresh buttermilk and learn how to pack butter. Time flies and the sun slowly disappears behind the steep mountain flanks much too quickly. But we don’t leave without first buying a piece of alpine cheese. With a wild garlic mutschli in your backpack, it’s time to say goodbye and slowly continue hiking down the valley.

Evening Seealpsee idyll

The way back to Wasserauen takes us past the shore of the Seealpsee, which forms a beautiful backdrop in the light of the last rays of sunshine. It lies in front of us as smooth as a mirror and depicts every rock edge in detail in the mirror image. The balmy summer evening didn’t just make us stay a little longer in the mountains. On the lakeshore, a few groups of cervelats and chops are grilling. Despite consuming cheese, I can’t prevent my mouth from watering from the smell.

Hike down the valley with the last rays of sunshine to Wasserauen

We have the entertaining part of the way back to Wasserauen behind us in no time. We agree, our first impression of the Appenzellerland is peppered with highlights. Even though this route is very popular on beautiful summer days, this should not deter you. An absolutely recommendable classic! My hiker’s heart is still leaping for joy.

Practical tips for your hike from Berggasthaus Aescher to Seealpsee

The map shows our route. The route is about 8 km long and includes an ascent of 220 meters and a descent of about 950 meters in altitude. The pure running time is about 3 hours (comfortable). The trail leads past several alps where you can buy alpine cheese and butter.

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The hike is a red-white-red marked mountain hiking trail of difficulty T2/T3. The descent from the Aescher to the Seealpsee includes some steep, exposed passages and requires full concentration and surefootedness. If you want to take photos, you should stop briefly so that missteps are avoided. It is also advisable to wear good footwear (hiking boots with profiled soles).

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Hike Ebenalp – Wildkirchli – Äscher – Seealpsee: Key data of our tour

Starting point	Mountain station of the Wasserauen cable car – Ebenalp
Length	7.9 kilometres
Elevation gain	↗ 145 m 902 m ↘
Duration	2:30 – to 3:00 h
Destination	Valley station of the Wasserauen cable car – Ebenalp

Alternative: easy hike to Seealpsee

Instead of the hike described above from the Ebenalp via Wildkirchli to the Seealpsee, it is of course also possible to hike directly up to the Seealpsee from Wasserauen. To do this, follow the signposted hiking trail via Rässenaueli and Kohlbett to the shore of the lake. The ascent takes about an hour to walk (2.4 kilometres, 270 metres uphill). The round trip takes about 2.5 hours, including a tour of the Seealpsee. This route variant is an easy hike that is also feasible for families with children.