Fil du Doubs – hike to slow down

Over a length of 29 kilometres, the Doubs meanders along the French-Swiss border and leaves Switzerland after a bold arc – called Clos du Doubs – back towards France. On the Chemin au Fil du Doubs, you can explore the largely untouched river landscape from Les Brenets in Neuchâtel to the Jura town of Saint-Ursanne on foot. We explored two stages and finally ventured into the 15° cold Doubs. A wonderfully decelerating experience.

Stage 1 from Les Brenets and the Saut-du-Doubs to MaisonMonsieur

Apart from the chirping of birds and the soft gurgling of the stream, nothing can be heard. It seems as if we have left civilization far behind and landed in the middle of the jungle. The mangrove-like trees, which protrude from the water covered with moss, tempt me to take a scrutinizing look into the water. Is there an alligator lurking there? We have already hiked for about two hours. We stocked up on a fine packed lunch with regional products in the Boulangerie Charmillot in Les Brenets and marveled at the Saut-du-Doubs. Up to this well-known destination, the hiking trail ran unspectacularly on an asphalt road. After the view of the thundering waterfall, we continue hiking on forest paths and let ourselves be enchanted by nature. The only thing we look for in vain is a comfortable bench and sit pragmatically in the moss on the banks of the Doubs for a picnic.

After 18 kilometres of wilderness, we see the small settlement of Maison-Monsieur on the banks of the Doubs. After a refreshing shower in our accommodation, the B&B Le Caprice, we enjoy the evening sun in the garden. For dinner, hosts Isabelle and Pierre Renevey conjure up freshly caught pike from the Doubs on the table. We eat together at the table “comme en famille”, says Isabelle and then says: “Don’t write in your blog that we grilled pike. That rarely happens!” So it takes a bit of luck to enjoy freshly grilled pike during the pike season at Buvette Le Caprice.

2. Hike from Maison Monsieur to Goumois

The next day we wake up with a slight muscle soreness. The backpack carrying is noticeable. But the view out of the window quickly perks us up. It rained overnight and now scattered fog is still drifting through the forest. What a mood. We keep an eye out for the colorful kingfishers, but they don’t show up this morning.

After breakfast, we lace up our hiking boots again, shoulder our backpacks and welcome my parents, who are hiking today’s stage with us. But as soon as we have warmed in, we reach the first stage destination. In Biaufond, we stop at the Wenk family’s Maison Biaufond. The small restaurant is located away from the hiking trail. But the extra steps are worth it. We order the classic “Trout Blue” and two trout fillets twice and then sit in harmony in front of our meal. So good! Even dad, who doesn’t like fish (at least he claims), bravely orders trout fillet and raves about the fine fish for the next 15 kilometers. I would think that the Maison Biaufond is a culinary must-stop at the Fil du Doubs. Since the Wenk family focuses on quality instead of quantity, you have to reserve a table in advance.

After a glass of white wine and Damassine schnapps for dessert, the journey continues cheerfully. The route is hillier today than the day before and the Doubs hides in gorges in sections. In Goumois we take the post bus and drive up to Les Pommerats. Here we spend the night in the guest house Chez Le Roy, which is located in a typical Jura house in the middle of the village center with a view of horse stables. The rooms are lovingly decorated and totally cozy.

Finally, paddling to Saint-Ursanne

The Fil du Doubs runs in four stages from Les Brenets to Saint-Ursanne. We skip the third stage and are chauffeured directly to Soubey on the third morning, from where we tackle the first nine kilometers of the fourth stage on foot. The landscape is less wild in this section. The cultivated fields extend to the riverbank. Only when we change to the opposite bank of the river shortly before La Charbonnière does it become more rustic again. We fight our way through mud and puddles and wish for a machete. In Tariche we let campground users take us over by ferry. There is no bridge and the ship is half filled with water. But it remains with the wet feet.

We feared that due to the heavy rainfall, kayaking would fall into the water. Fred Lovis from the Maison du Tourisme first examines us extensively and wants to know if we have kayaking experience. The friend – as confident as ever – says “logo”. Fred informs us that the current flow rate of the Doubs is 50 l/s and he usually travels on the river with tourists at around 20 l/s. I sit down in Fred’s kayak with the camera in the waterproof case. The friend bravely paddles off alone. What fun! In between, we are shaken and splashed wet (I carefully stow the camera in the waterproof bag before every tricky spot) and after about an hour we reach Saint-Ursanne. Usually, the tour lasts two to three hours. So there is just enough time to take a short tour of the medieval town before we make our way home. That’s how quickly three wonderfully eventful days in the Doubs Regional Nature Park come to an end. Once again, the Jura with its landscape and its people inspired me. This is the home of my heart.

Practical tips for hiking along the Chemin au fil du Doubs

Part 1: Au Fil du Doubs Stages 1 and 2

The route can be found on the map below. We hiked the first two as well as part of the fourth stage of the Fil du Doubs. The first stage from Les Brenets to Maison Monsieur is 18 km long and includes a climb of 300 meters. Between Saut du Doubs and Maison Monsieur, there are hardly any catering options along the way. Many pubs were closed when we were on the road. Therefore, it is best to pack a picnic or stock up on provisions in Les Brenets. The hiking time is around 4.5 to 5 hours.

The second stage from Maison Monsieur to Goumois is 21 km long and includes a climb of around 650 meters in altitude. Catering is available in Biaufond and Le Theusseret. The hiking time is about 5.5 hours. The starting point and destination can be reached by post bus.

Part 2: Au Fil du Doubs Stage 4 to Tariche

The last stage of the Fil du Doubs is 15 km from Soubey to Saint-Ursanne. We hiked only 9 km to Tariche, crossed the Doubs with the “ferry” and then paddled the last 6 km by kayak to Saint-Ursanne. The kayak tour was organized by the Maison du Tourisme in Saint-Ursanne. The cost for adults is 70 CHF for this route. The starting point in Soubey can be reached by bus from Saint-Ursanne. Saint-Ursanne has a train station with regular connections to Biel.

You can find more information about the four stages of the Chemin au Fil du Doubs on wanderland.ch.

Note: This trip was supported by Jura & Three-Lakes – Thank you very much for this. As always, my readers can be sure that I always represent my views and enthusiasm here.