Hiking in the Maggia Valley – time out in Campo

If you want to leave everyday life behind for a few days and feel this “distance” clearly when you arrive, you can either board a long-haul plane or – as a much more sustainable alternative – travel by public transport to Campo – a side valley of the Maggia Valley. In September, we went on an exploration tour through the remote valley landscape and not only encountered a magnificent – and almost deserted – mountain world, but also found a retreat for connoisseurs. And best of all, the season lasts longer here than anywhere else. In the Maggia Valley, autumn can be enjoyed until November.

A hideaway in the farthest corner of the Maggia Valley

I can no longer reconstruct where I first “stumbled” upon the Locanda Fior di Campo. But I still remember when I googled the place for the first time and found out that the journey by public transport from Zurich takes about 4.5 hours and there is only one time slot per day for the journey. Somehow, this particular place has successfully etched itself in my memory, and as I was compiling my list of recommended hotels and hostels this spring, the Locanda Fior di Campo popped up on my radar again and snagged a spot on the bucket list.

At the end of August, the tour took us along the Sentiero Cristallina to Val Bavona in the rear Maggia Valley. We took advantage of this opportunity and combined the multi-day hike with a three-day detour to Campo. First the duty, then the freestyle. Of course, you can also get your feet sore around Campo without any problems. The hiking options are diverse and encounters with fellow hikers are rare on almost all routes. But more on that later. First, a few words about Locanda Fior di Campo.

The stately building in the middle of the loosely built-up village centre of Campo has a long tradition as a restaurant and accommodation business. Vincenzo Pedrazzini, politician, entrepreneur and citizen of Campo, took over the business with the aim of creating a place for those seeking peace and quiet and at the same time strengthening tourism in the valley. In recent years, he has developed the former restaurant into a boutique hotel with an excellent restaurant. We were particularly impressed by the spacious restaurant terrace, the great food and the exciting (and above all very fairly priced) wine list. My most intense and relaxed memories of this year’s holidays are very much linked to those balmy August evenings in Campo; a glass of Merlot, crickets chirping and the smell of freshly mown grass. The perfect place to consciously slow down for a few days.

Beautiful hike in the Maggia Valley: Lago Gelato & Lago dei Pozzöi

The beauty of a break in Campo is that it offers the perfect mix of peace, enjoyment and exercise. The hiking possibilities are varied and I had a hard time choosing. If you want to undertake somewhat more challenging tours, some of which start in neighbouring villages and lead over pass crossings into other – similarly remote – side valleys of the Maggia Valley, you should definitely consult the Postbus timetable in advance. Otherwise, you risk getting stranded somewhere.

Two recommended day trips, which can be carried out as long-distance hikes from the neighbouring village of Cimalmotto (and which could also be tackled directly from Campo in an “emergency”), lead along the Ri di Sfii through a beautiful larch forest to the Alpe di Sfii. There you are spoilt for choice. Either you head for Lago di Sfii on the left side of the valley or you climb to the right over the alpine pastures to Lago dei Pozzöi/Lago Gelato (depending on your mood, mood and form of the day). We opted for the Lago Gelato/Lago dei Pozzöi variant and enjoyed the two mountain lakes all to ourselves. While Lago Gelato is located above the tree line, Lago dei Pozzöi is framed by larches and therefore certainly makes a beautiful photo motif in autumn.

The way back is the same as the way there. You should keep in mind that on the last two kilometers there are another 120 meters of altitude to get from the bottom of the Rio Rovana up to Cimalmotto. If you don’t feel like waiting for the post bus connection back to Campo Paese, you can simply follow the road downhill and you can return to the Locanda Fior di Campo in 15 minutes. And you can’t imagine how wonderful a sip of a chilled gazosa feels after this tour!

Key data of the tour Cimalmotto – Alpe di Sfii – Lago Gelato

The following map shows you the route of the hike from Cimalmotto via Alpe di Sfii to Lago Gelato. It is a T2 mountain trail that is easy to walk and has no slopes. The challenge here lies in the distance/altitude difference – the path from Cimalmotto to the valley and back is a long one.

Starting point	Postautohaltestelle Cimalmotto
Length	15.3 kilometers
Elevation gain	↗ 1,135 m 1,135 m ↘
Duration	6:00 a.m.
Destination	Postautohaltestelle Cimalmotto

Hike over the Passo Quadrella to Bosco Gurin

A stay in Campo is also a good reason to finally visit Bosco Gurin. Bosco Gurin is not only the highest village in Ticino, but also the only German-speaking one. In the 13th century, the Walser migrated from Valais via Val Formazza and via the Guriner Furggli to this high valley and settled here. The traditions, architecture and language of the Walser people have survived over the centuries and even today long-established villagers speak “Ggurijnartitsch” in everyday life. In contrast to Campo, Bosco Gurin is a well-known excursion and holiday destination in Ticino – but the journey is similarly long and therefore it is worthwhile to combine a visit to the two valleys.

From Campo, two passes lead to Bosco Gurin. The route over the Pian Crosc is the most direct connection. On this route, you can reach Bosco Gurin with a good three-hour hike.

The second route leads via Cimalmotto and climbs up through a loosely planted larch forest to Alpe di Quadrella and on to Passo Quadrello. On this tour you can enjoy the view down to Bosco Gurin and at the same time have the opportunity to make a panoramic loop over the Grossalp. For this reason, we chose this route and did not regret the choice for a minute. From Cimalmotto, a very pleasant forest path leads up to Passo Quadrello. Looking out over the extensive larch forest, I regret something that is only at the end of August. Imagine the same landscape on a sunny October day… “Wow”!

But even so, the panorama is impressive. Also on this route we do not meet a soul until we reach the Grossalp. In contrast to the first hike, we don’t have to wait until we reach our destination until we can quench our thirst with a refreshing gazosa. The hiking trail leads past the Capanna Grossalp, where it is worth stopping for a bite to eat. Here, with a view of the Walser village down in the valley, you can also stay longer and time the time so that you coordinate the remaining hiking time to the village center of Bosco Gurin with the departure time of the post bus. Otherwise, the remaining time can also be bridged with a visit to the Walser Museum (open Tuesday to Saturday).

Key data of the hike Cimalmotto – Passo Quadrello – Bosco Gurin

The following map shows you the route of the hike from Cimalmotto over the Passo Quadrello to the Walser village of Bosco Gurin. It is a T2 mountain trail that is easy to walk and has no slopes.

Starting point	Postautohaltestelle Cimalmotto
Length	9.8 kilometers
Elevation gain	↗ 950 m 830 m ↘
Duration	4:15 p.m.
Destination	Postautohaltestelle Bosco Gurin, Village

Practical tips for your time out around Campo

• Room prices at Locanda Fior di Campo start at CHF 210 per night in a double room with breakfast. The most sought-after (and also the most beautiful) rooms are the double rooms with balcony (unfortunately they were already fully booked during our visit).
• The Locanda also has a private spa area with sauna. If you make a reservation, you will have exclusive access to the spa.
• The room booking is made exclusively via e-mail. This works well, but is a bit unfavorable if you want to find out in advance when which availabilities are available.
• Be sure to plan a dinner at the Locanda – the menu is designed in such a way that if you stay two to three days, you can also eat well on site every evening (there are not really other options within walking distance). On the other hand, you shouldn’t expect too much from breakfast – it’s classic Italian.
• The journey by public transport leads via Locarno, Cevio and Cerentino and is designed in such a way that you reach your destination shortly after 16:00 (due to only two, or depending on the day of the week, three connections per day, an earlier arrival on the day of arrival is not possible).
• Since the Postbus service between Cerentino and Campo also takes on a mail distribution function, there are delays for the Campo – Cimalmotto route depending on the time of day and day of the week. So don’t be surprised if you’re at the post bus stop on time and then have to wait up to 15 minutes for the bus (but unfortunately there is no guarantee of delay).
• A detour to these corners of the Maggia Valley is worthwhile not only in the summer season. In winter, you can go on beautiful snowshoe tours around Campo or take a detour to the ski slopes of Bosco Gurin (although you should not underestimate the journey from Campo to Bosco Gurin – it takes almost as long as walking along the old mule tracks)