Hiking in Cinque Terre: Along the Coastal Trail from Village to Village

Hiking in the Cinque Terre means historic trails with spectacular views and the magic of five colorful fishing villages. Yet, especially in high season, this picturesque coastal stretch of Italy attracts masses of tourists, leading to overcrowded trails and environmental issues. Does that mean you should avoid the Cinque Terre altogether? Or are there ways to experience the region authentically and sustainably? At the end of December, we set out on the coastal hiking trails between Monterosso and Riomaggiore – and have good news to share.

Hiking Vacation in the Cinque Terre in Italy

The name “Cinque Terre” stands for five picturesque coastal villages set along the steep, rugged Ligurian coast between Levanto and La Spezia. In 1997, Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore – together with Porto Venere, located a bit further south – were declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Two years later, a national park was established to protect this unique natural and cultural landscape.

However, the good accessibility of the Cinque Terre from La Spezia and Levanto, as well as the constant presence of these picturesque villages on social media, has led to a veritable tourist onslaught in recent years. We were therefore unsure whether to include the Cinque Terre in our trip or deliberately skip it. Looking back, our decision to spend a few days there in December was spot on. Even in the off-season, we weren’t the only ones enjoying the mild climate and breathtaking scenery – but the high-season crowds were hardly noticeable, if at all.

Our Hiking Tips for the Cinque Terre

Another reason the Cinque Terre are especially appealing in the off-season is the numerous hiking opportunities. Around 120 kilometers of marked trails crisscross the national park, foremost among them the famous coastal path (Sentiero Azzuro) connecting the five villages. Monterosso, the northernmost village, is only about 8.5 kilometers as the crow flies from Riomaggiore, the southernmost town. However, if you hike the distance, it’s roughly 18 kilometers with 950 meters of elevation gain – a distance that, thanks to good public transport connections, can be tackled in a flexible manner. Whether in one day, split into two stages (our version), or in four day hikes – each option has its own charm.

We set up our “base camp” in Vernazza – not only because of its central location, but also the quality of our accommodation. La Malà (partner link) is located in the heart of the historic center and offers modern, comfortable rooms as well as a private terrace with a sea view. A special highlight: In room No. 31, you can even enjoy a direct view of the Mediterranean from your bed. On clear days, you can see all the way to Corsica. Vernazza’s train station is less than a five-minute walk away, with hourly train connections to the other villages of the Cinque Terre.

Hike Corniglia – Vernazza

You can generally hike the coastal trail in both directions. However, our host at La Malà suggested hiking the Vernazza – Corniglia section in reverse, starting from Corniglia to Vernazza. The reason: Corniglia is the only one of the five villages that isn’t located directly by the sea but instead perches on a cliff about 100 meters above sea level.

From Corniglia’s train station, there are two ways up to the village: either take the shuttle bus or tackle the sweaty but rewarding ascent of 382 steps on foot – a perfect warm-up for the upcoming hike. We made the climb twice – and both times, we were faster than the bus!

In Corniglia, a short stop is worthwhile. In terms of charm and restaurants, this place was my favorite among the five. Logistically, though, it’s not as practical due to its distance and elevation from the train station. The trails are generally well signposted and hard to miss, so we follow the signposts through olive groves and quickly enjoy beautiful panoramic views. There’s another slight uphill section up to Prevo. In the summer months, you can take a break at the “il Gabbiano” bar by the roadside to refuel with a panini or enjoy a cool lemon granita.

After that, there’s a relatively direct descent down to Vernazza. Overall, it took us a good hour to cover the distance.

Tip for a break in Corniglia: Bar Pan E Vino

Places to eat in Vernazza: Great fresh seafood dishes (also available for takeout) are offered at “il Gattaccio.” And it’s definitely worth having a glass of local wine with your meal. We also had a good experience at 5 Terre Bistrot. If you’re just stopping by briefly, don’t miss the ice cream at Gelateria Vernazza – it’s delicious!

Hike Vernazza – Monterosso al Mare

The earlier you start hiking, the less “oncoming traffic” you’ll have. Since we covered Vernazza – Corniglia so quickly, we decided to continue on without a break to the next leg toward Monterosso al Mare. This section is one of the most frequented stretches, and depending on the time of day, it can get crowded when there’s traffic in both directions. Very soon after starting the hike, it’s worth looking back at Vernazza – from this side, the fishing village is especially photogenic. Then it’s about 200 meters of elevation gain again, step by step over stone steps. After the ascent comes – of course – the descent to Monterosso. It feels even steeper, and caution is advised on wet ground, as stone steps can become slippery.

The famous bathing beach of Monterosso seems deserted in December. However, most restaurants remain open in the off-season, and along Via Fegina, the promenade leading to the train station, the benches are quite occupied.

Tip for a break in Monterosso: Stop by “Il Frantonio” for really good focaccia “to go” and enjoy it on a bench along the seafront.

GPX track of these hikes: We combined the hike from Corniglia to Vernazza with the route from Vernazza to Monterosso. Here’s the route description on Komoot.

Hike Corniglia – Manarola

Our second hiking day once again begins with the climb to Corniglia. This time, however, we follow the signposts in the opposite direction.

Our host had warned us in advance: The trail is “tough.” When I asked whether it was possible to walk the entire route from Corniglia to Riomaggiore in a single day, he was hesitant. He said even the section from Corniglia to Manarola could take a whole day. Accordingly, we were curious how long it would really take us to hike the roughly eight kilometers to Manarola.

And indeed, starting from Corniglia, the path winds steadily upward. Much of the route runs through shady forest and is comfortable to walk. After about an hour, we reach the highest point, roughly 400 meters above our starting elevation at Corniglia’s train station, and take in the view. In the distance, you can already spot our destination, Manarola.

On the way there, the hiking trail passes through steep and sometimes exposed vineyards. Anyone who feels uneasy on precipitous sections might find it challenging in places. Compared to the other sections, this part is much less traveled – we only met a handful of hikers going the opposite way.

From the village of Volastra, a steep (and seemingly endless) descent leads down to Manarola. There, it’s best to follow the path along the edge of the village directly to the “viewpoint” on the right side of the bay. The excursion spot “Nessun Dorma,” located there, is closed in the off-season.

It took us about 2 hours and 15 minutes to cover the Corniglia – Manarola stretch without a break. Since the remaining hiking time to the fifth coastal village, Riomaggiore, was relatively short at about an hour, we decided to continue on immediately.

Hike Manarola – Riomaggiore

There are two trail options between Manarola and Riomaggiore. The most famous is the Via dell’Amore, about a one-kilometer flat path following the coastline that can be walked in almost any footwear. During our visit, however, the path was temporarily closed. Generally, the Via dell’Amore is accessible between February 15 and October 25.

Important: the Via dell’Amore is operated as a one-way route and can only be walked from Riomaggiore to Manarola. Access is restricted to certain opening hours, and an entrance ticket must be purchased. More information is available here: viadellamore.info

The much more strenuous path follows the original connection between the two villages, the “Via Beccara”. Before the Via dell’Amore was carved out of the rock, hikers had to cross the hill separating the two villages. The route is straightforward: first, you climb countless steep steps for 250 meters of elevation gain, and then you go straight back down. This sporty finale took us about another hour. All told, we covered Corniglia – Riomaggiore in just over three hours of walking time, which I believe can be combined quite well if you have a decent fitness level.

Places to eat in Riomaggiore: We would have liked to try Rio Bistrot, but it was closed. Da Dulin was a good alternative. Another option under consideration was the fish & chips takeout place “Tutti Fritti.”

GPX track of these hikes: We combined the hike from Corniglia to Manarola with the hike from Manarola to Riomaggiore (Via Beccara option). Here’s the route description on Komoot.

Practical Tips for Your Hiking Vacation in the Cinque Terre

• • In my opinion, it’s worth choosing accommodation directly in the Cinque Terre. That way, you also get to experience the villages in the morning and evening hours, once the day tourists have left.

• • The hiking trails in the Cinque Terre are generally open year-round. However, certain sections may be closed for maintenance or after storms. Except for the Via dell’Amore, the trails in the off-season from November 4 to March 14 are free to access.

• • From March 15 to November 3, a fee is charged, which varies depending on the season and the day of the week. At the train stations and tourist information centers, you can buy two variants of the Cinque Terre card. Clear and up-to-date information can be found on this website.

• • In terms of trail condition/difficulty, the coastal path is comparable to a mountain hiking trail (T2/T3). Accordingly, sturdy footwear is really a given. Be sure to pack sunscreen and enough water in your daypack.

• • I recommend starting your hikes as early as possible. It’s less hot in the morning, and there are far fewer day tourists around. From about 10 or 11 AM, the villages get noticeably fuller. You can definitely tell when a train has just arrived.