Graz: Sights in the gourmet capital of Austria

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On my first visit in December 2015, Graz quickly got a place in my list of favorites for city break destinations in Europe. World Heritage Site, Capital of Enjoyment in Austria, design-savvy, open to innovation and a really casual coffee house culture. Tradition, interpreted in a modern way. This makes Graz a worthwhile destination for a weekend trip all year round.

Logo, that the Styrian capital could not be missing from my Austria summer bucket list. At the end of August, the time had come for us – a weekend in Graz was on the agenda. Actually, the timing of our trip was coordinated with the annual event highlight of the Capital of Pleasure, the “Long Table”. Unfortunately, this was cancelled for the second time in a row due to the situation. Nevertheless, with the parallel Food Festival and the colorful supporting program of the GenussCapital partner companies, delicious days awaited us all around. Accordingly, you can look forward to a concentrated load of first-class tips. The best preparation for an enjoyable visit to Graz.

Graz’s coffee house culture reinterpreted

Already in 2015 I raved about the numerous great cafés after my return. So it’s all the nicer to see that Café Tribeka, which struck me particularly positively at the time, has been able to open more branches in the meantime. We didn’t miss the morning trip to the café this time either. Because nothing is more Graz than planning at least two hours for a hearty breakfast.

Breakfast Club im Café Fotter

My recommendation for Saturday morning: Reserve a table at Café Fotter. The more than 80-year-old traditional house combines the charm of yesteryear with “hipster vibes” and inspires on nice days with a secluded garden. The weekend kick-off here is a touch more daring than elsewhere. The breakfast menu starts with a cocktail. Would you like a Bellini? Alternatively, you can of course order a mocktail or a freshly prepared smoothie. Either way – the three-course Breakfast Club concept consisting of a drink, something savoury and a sweet final bouquet convinced me from A to Z. There are further plus points for the ambience and the freshly roasted coffee.

Café Fotter is located east of the city park in Graz’s university district. Perfect to explore on foot after a hearty breakfast. In addition to pretty neighborhood streets with perimeter block buildings from the first half of the 20th century, there are also one or two interesting modern facades to discover here. For example, the buildings of the Institute of Molecular Biology or Zaha Hadid’s design “Argos” on Burggasse.

Breakfast at Das Promenade

In contrast to Café Fotter, Café Promenade at the Stadthaus Pavilion in the Stadtpark is a new addition to Graz’s breakfast scene. Here, too, you can eat comfortably indoors or – weather permitting – outside. The breakfast menu is a bit more extensive than at Café Fotter and includes a large selection of cakes and pastries, but also delicious sourdough sandwiches, raw vegetables or granola with yoghurt and fresh fruit.

Café Promenade is currently one of 28 partner establishments of the Culinary Capital. As a result, they have also been certified with the seal of approval of the AMA Genuss Region since this year. The credo: High-quality regional food is produced and processed here.

Places of enjoyment in the old town of Graz

Café Promenade is located a few metres from the Castle Gate, one of the medieval city gates. From here it is only a stone’s throw to the historic old town alleys. Take the opportunity to explore the famous double spiral staircase in the castle courtyard on the way back from the café to the city centre. From here we let ourselves drift through the alleys of the old town of Graz. There is a lot to discover; the cathedral church, the boutique-lined Sporrgasse, the winding Färbergasse, the Stadtbauernladen on Hamerlinggasse (perfect for buying a souvenir), pretty courtyards and lively squares.

Frankowitsch – Brötchen all day long

No matter which way you choose, sooner or later you will walk past the delicatessen Frankovich. In my opinion, a stopover at the traditional Graz delicatessen is a must. And what the connoisseur orders here, I know since my last visit to Graz: a bread roll and a whistle. Cheers!

The Frankowitsch is just around the corner from Herrengasse. Lined with numerous magnificent buildings between the main square and Jakominiplatz, it forms the centre of public life in Graz’s old town. Here you will also find the country house with its courtyard, which is well worth seeing. The arcades are considered a masterpiece of the Italian Renaissance. The two partner establishments of the Culinary Capital located here also exude a Mediterranean attitude to life: the Landhauskeller and the el Gaucho.

Cocktails at Cat Cat

Tucked away in between is one of the city’s hottest cocktail bars – Cat Cat. My tip: You can usually find a seat for a Pré Dinner drink without a reservation. If, on the other hand, you want to enjoy a nightcap here after dinner, you should reserve a table in advance.

Unobstructed view – toast with a view

Another excellent aperitif location is hidden on the roof of the Kastner & Öhler department store. I already headed for Café Freiblick on my last visit to Graz and enjoyed the view over the listed rooftop landscape of Graz. Before we toast the wonderful weather with a fruity glass of white wine from Styria, we take advantage of the proximity to the Joanneum district to take a look at the Neue Galerie.

The redesign of the square, carried out in the early 2000s, seems to be a successful example of the lively dialogue between the city and the museum. The only drawback: one or the other shady tree would significantly enhance the quality of stay on the site on a sunny summer’s day. On rainy and cool days, the underground museum structure is a real blessing.

citylunch at thirteen by Gauster

Our tour ends on this day at Franziskanerplatz, where we get hold of one of the coveted tables at thirzehn by Gauster. Here you will find classic Styrian dishes, interpreted in a modern way and beautifully arranged. If you are planning a visit to a cultural event later in the evening, you can also benefit from a 3-course surprise menu including aperitif and cover charge at an attractive price (valid before 7:30 pm).

Be it to attend a performance at the opera or the Schauspielhaus Graz after dinner or simply to watch the spectacle around and on the Mur Island from a bench on the Mur. Either way, Graz seems to really blossom at the blue hour.

Indulge in indulgence above the rooftops of the city

Why should you spend at least two nights in Graz? So that after a cozy evening down in the old town, you can also spend an evening on the Schlossberg. Several ascent options lead to the top of the striking hill. The most representative of these is the Schlossbergstiege, even if its history (it was carved into the rock by prisoners of war of the 1st World War) is anything but romantic. More comfortable and in a quick four minutes you can take the Schlossbergbahn or the glass Schlossberg lift up to the Schlossberg. On nice days, it is worthwhile to head for the Schlossberg at sunset.

Restaurant das Schlossberg

This can be enjoyed either from the extensive parks around the clock tower, from the panoramic terrace of the aiola upstairs right next to it or from the Schlossberg restaurant. Behind floor-to-ceiling windows, you can dine here in a dignified and at the same time modern ambience. The compact menu (has space on one side, which we appreciate very much), includes seasonal classics of Austrian cuisine. Be sure to pay a visit to the Skybar one floor above. And if you want to learn more about the history of the Schlossberg, you can plan a detour to the Graz Museum Schlossberg (entrance fee 2 euros for adults) before dinner. Opened in autumn 2020, the museum is open daily from 10:00 to 18:00.

Where art meets culinary delights in Graz

Graz is not only part of the Unesco World Heritage Sites with its excellently preserved old town, but also a Unesco City of Design. It goes without saying that art and culture can be felt and experienced throughout the entire city. In some places, such things manifest themselves on a small scale. For example, through the use of creative furnishing elements in public spaces. In other places – such as the Kunsthaus Graz, which is illuminated at night – the “friendly alien” – they are unmistakable.

If you visit Graz during the Food Festival, you will also have the pleasure of experiencing culinary delights combined with art. The event series started this year in the Bakerhouse Gallery with an Art Kitchen. I can recommend a visit to the largest art gallery in Styria for those interested in art, but also outside of the Food Festival week or other events.

On an excursion by convertible bus: Culinary city tour of Graz

Art and culture also form a symbiosis at the Kunsthaus Graz. The Kunsthauscafé as well as the Kunsthaus are a must for me when visiting Graz. The exhibitions are superbly curated and always deal with current topics. The Kunsthaus Graz is also the starting point for one of the various culinary tours that Graz has on offer as part of the GenussCapital programme. From the veggie walk to the beer tour to the pleasure ride with the convertible bus, different tastes and interests are covered.

This time we went on a pleasure trip with the convertible bus. While the culinary tours through the city centre of Graz are established and enjoy great popularity, the Cabriobus has created an offer that makes it possible to get to know selected businesses outside the city centre within one afternoon.

The pleasure trip starts with a glass of sparkling wine and a sandwich as an aperitif in the Kunsthaus café. From here, it’s off to the Nova Air restaurant, where the appetizer is served at lofty heights in an original Boeing 727-200. A bit crazy – and I would say the stop that will be remembered the longest by most participants.

The main course is then served in the St. Veiter Schlössl. A dignified location, which is also quite well visited on weekends. And finally, there’s a wonderful piece of plum strudel in the more than 300-year-old restaurant “Kirchenwirt” in Mariatrost. A worthwhile excursion for all those who want to literally take a look beyond the horizon of Graz city centre.

And off to bed: Aiola Living Graz

And where is the best place to sleep after an enjoyable day in Graz? This time we checked in at Aiola Living in a central location on Landhausgasse within walking distance of almost all the culinary top spots mentioned in this post. The rooms of the boutique hotel are kept in compact size, but perfect for sleeping, showering and briefly keeping your legs up between extensive exploration and feasting!

Practical tips for your city trip to Graz

• Graz can be reached daily from Zurich by night train (ÖBB Nightjet) directly, comfortably and environmentally friendly.
• In the old town of Graz you can use the tram between Hauptplatz and Jakominiplatz or one station beyond for free. Each stop in the free travel area is marked with “Altstadt Bim“.
• For all those who want to spend a weekend in Graz and visit one or the other sight outside the old town, it is worth buying the Graz 72-hour ticket for public transport. Cost: 13.10 euros per person. This includes, among other things, a ride on the Schlossbergbahn.
• With the 72-hour ticket, you also benefit from numerous discounts at sights and museums – e.g. the entrance fee to the Universalmuseum Joanneum or the Graz Museum
• The pleasure rides with the convertible bus take place from May to October. Cost: 99 euros per person for 4 courses including drinks
• If you need information on site, you will be given competent information at the tourist information office at Herrengasse 18 (right next to the Grazer Landhaus).