Italy insider tip: Our road trip through the Marche

Italy always goes, right? I would answer this question in the affirmative without any hesitation. I like short trips to Italy and have accordingly already grazed some of the well-known “hotspots” in northern Italy. In mid-May, we once again made our way south. After Liguria, Piedmont and Emilia-Romagna, this time we want to explore a region of Italy that is rather unknown from a Swiss perspective. The target: the brands.

The Marche region is located in central Italy between the Adriatic Sea and the Apennines. From Switzerland, the journey takes both by train and by car across Emilia-Romagna to Rimini – two coastal villages further south the Marche begins. The journey takes between six and eight hours, depending on the choice of means of transport, and is therefore not a stone’s throw. Therefore, it is worth spending at least three – or even better four – nights in the region.

Italian country estate love

We planned three nights for the road trip through the Marche. Anything less would definitely be a shame. Not only because there is a lot to discover, but also because there are some great country estates in the region that you don’t want to leave so quickly. These include the Corte Campioli not far from Fossombrone.

“If you would like to get to know the Italian brands, we would be happy to welcome you,” owner Sabine Blumrath wrote to me in autumn 2018. I then clicked through the website of the estate and quickly knew: what a good idea! And so it happened that this May we took a long weekend to visit the hideaway in the middle of the enchanting hilly landscape of the Marche.

Sabine and Christian Blumrath have made a dream come true with the realization of a small, fine hotel in the middle of the wonderful hilly landscape of the Marche. In 2012, the two native Germans bought the empty farmhouse and transformed it into a gem for connoisseurs within two years. A total of seven rooms and two apartments are spread over the historic main building and the new building “Casa Michele” in front of it. The old building structures have been largely taken over and harmoniously complemented with modern elements – here you will find comfort with patina. And a really cosy ambience. “Our home is yours too” is Sabine and Christian’s motto, and accordingly you feel a bit like at home with friends here.

In principle, the Corte Campioli functions like a bed and breakfast. In coordination with the guests, however, they also feast together again and again – be it at a barbecue in the courtyard or at a pasta evening in the converted stable. On our first evening, we also enjoy an excellent dinner menu with homemade noodles and the world’s best tiramisu (divine, I’ll tell you).

• 

• 

Drive to the Frasassi Caves

With three nights at Corte Campioli, we have two full days to visit the highlights of the Marche. But before we start our sightseeing tour, we fortify ourselves with a hearty breakfast outside in the secluded courtyard.

Afterwards we set course for the Grotte di Frasassi. The stalactite caves are considered one of the most spectacular natural wonders of Italy and are located just under an hour’s drive south of Corte Campioli. The caves can only be visited as part of guided tours. According to the current schedule, the public tours take place 3 times a day (11:35 a.m. / 1:35 p.m. / 3:35 p.m.). The parking lot as well as the ticket office is not located directly at the cave entrance (just follow the road signs). We arrive at the visitor center just before 11 am and get tickets for an English guided tour at 11:35 am without any problems. The entrance fee including the guided tour is 18 euros. Theoretically, it is possible to buy the tickets online on the website of the grottoes – but we have not tried this (at best it is worth it during the holiday periods, when the grottoes are very well frequented).

The caves are part of the excursion repertoire of various cruise companies and group tour operators. Depending on the day / season, it can get crowded. Even though I was skeptical at first and don’t find the overall organization of the cave visit optimally solved, the caves themselves are VERY impressive! In comparison, the Beatus Caves on Lake Thun are a real piece of cake.

• 

• 

Fascinating Temple of Valadier

The trip to the caves is worthwhile not only because of the visit to the imposing stalactite caves, but also because of the unusual church, which is hidden in the rock walls of the gorge only a few hundred meters away. The so-called Valadier Temple was built in the 19th century by order of Pope Leo XII and is now freely accessible. The parking lot is signposted and from there a steep path feels about 10 – 15 minutes uphill until you reach the rock opening with the octagonal temple. In contrast to the grottoes, only a few visitors get lost here. We only crossed two local climbers along the way.

An unknown gem – a stroll through Urbino

In addition to the caves of Frasassi, the small town of Urbino is one of the region’s top attractions. The picturesque old town, located on a hill, is considered the cradle of the Renaissance and has been classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1998 due to its well-preserved structure with numerous magnificent buildings from the 15th century. A stroll through Urbino takes about one to two hours. What is also worthwhile is the drive to the Chiesa di San Bernardino, which is located on a hill east of the city center. There you will find one of the best panoramic views of the old town of Urbino.

Detour to the Furlo Gorge

At the end of this jam-packed day, we make a detour from Urbino to the Furlo Gorge. The nature reserve is located on the historic “Via Flaminia”. The old Roman road once connected Fano with Rome. The Furlo Gorge is considered an excellent truffle area – in autumn there is a truffle fair in Aqualanga. During our visit, the small village seems rather deserted – but it is already late afternoon and the weather is quite cloudy.

We leave it at a short tour and then drive to Fossombrone, 10 kilometers away. There, on the recommendation of Sabine Blumrath, we reserved a table in the Osteria Zanchetti. The small Osteria (just 7 tables spread over 2 floors) is based on the Slowfood philosophy and has mostly “kilometer 0” products on the menu. A recommended place for those who appreciate simple, local and at the same time refined cuisine. Prices range from 13 to 20 euros for a main course.

Highlights on the Adriatic coast

We start the second day of the road trip with a detour to the Castello di Gradara. The medieval fortress is located not far from Rimini and is one of the most visited monuments in the Marche. We also meet by far the most tourists here and are almost a bit overwhelmed by the long queue in front of the entrance to the castle. On the one hand, there is the possibility to visit the interior of the castle as well as to take a tour of part of the fortification wall. If you want to do both, buy the combined ticket at the entrance to the castle (this will save you one euro).

More exciting for me than the visit to the fortress is the stroll through one of the local markets, such as the one in Fano, which takes place every Saturday. Fano with its charming old town streets is also worth a stop. An overview of the day on which the weekly markets take place in the different villages can be found on the Mercati di Italia page.

After the morning program with a visit to the castle in Gradara and a stroll through the market in Fano, we set off for Senigallia. Like Fano, Senigallia is a coastal town and seaside resort on the Adriatic Sea and the home of 3-star chef Mauro Uliassi. If you appreciate seafood at the highest level, you should not miss this restaurant visit. At Uliassi you can order à la carte or try one of two different menus. We tried our way through the full “Uliassi Lab 2019” and enjoyed every single course from A to Z! My two favorites of the current menu are the combination of morels, citrus fruits and peach, as well as the pasta coated in squid lard.

• 

• 

• 

• 

After this delicious lunch, a siesta would be in order, but our spirit of discovery keeps us on our toes and so we follow the coast further south. Due to time constraints, we do not make a stop in Ancona. Of course, the capital of the Marche region would also be worth a visit – depending on your priorities and your time budget. Our next destination is “Monte Conero“. From the striking headland, numerous narrow and steep hiking trails lead to hidden bays. Unfortunately, the viewpoint Osservatoria Belvedere Sud (about 15 minutes from the church of Badia di San Pietro) is overgrown and no longer offers such a great panoramic view.

While from Monte Conero you can look down on hard-to-reach dream beaches, from the village of Sirolo there is a beautiful view of the only elevation on the Adriatic coast in the Venice – Gargano section. Another reason to stop in Sirolo: the ice cream creations of the Gelateria il Bassotto.

• 

• 

Beautiful hinterland

The way back from Sirolo to Corte Campioli leads us once again through the hinterland, which resembles a patchwork carpet. Cornfields are followed by vineyards, loose hedges alternate with densely wooded areas and on one of the umpteen hills a church tower is guaranteed to sit enthroned above neatly arranged stone houses. No matter where you look, somehow it looks like a scenic idyll perfectly staged by a romantic artist. And so, of course, there are also some spruced-up villages in the hinterland that are worth a stop. For example, I really liked Corinaldo. The neighbouring village of Ostra Vetere is also pretty.We stopped there at La Buccia for dinner. The small eatery is half wine bar, half restaurant with a good selection of local wines.

• 

• 

Practical tips for your trip to the Marche

• Arrival by train via Milan to Rimini (approx. 6.5 – 7.5 hours depending on the connection) and then car rental in Rimini.
• Room rates at Corte Campioli vary depending on the season and room category between 130 – 250 euros per night (price for 2 people including breakfast).
• E-bikes can be rented at Corte Campioli – tips for beautiful bike tours are provided by the hosts.
• In addition to the sights listed in this post, nearby San Marino is also worth a day trip. Tips for visiting the dwarf state can be found at Susi from Black Dots White Spots, among others.
• If you are interested in wine, you will find several wineries in the vicinity that offer tastings. At Corte Campioli, the hosts also make sure that the Honesty Bar always contains selected wines from the region.

The following map gives an overview of the restaurant recommendations listed in this blog post as well as the sights we visited in the Marche region.

This trip was supported by the Corte Campioli Hotel & Country House. All impressions/opinions are, as always, our own.