Almost missed paradise

“You learn from your mistakes.” It would be nice! I tend to repeat the same mistakes systematically and hit my head against the wall several times. This was also the case a few weeks ago in Ftan, for example. We are standing helplessly in front of an apartment building on the outskirts of the village. Eyes alternately fixed on Google Maps and the surrounding area.

“It has to be here!”
“Look, according to Google Maps, we’re right in front of it!”

Vis-à-vis us, a lady on the top floor of the apartment building opens the window. She must have been watching our perplexed looks and wild gesticulations for a while.

“Can they help you?” she calls out to us.

“We are looking for paradise.”

“Paradise is over there,” she tells us, pointing to a hilltop on the horizon.

So once again I rattled in. I trusted Google Maps instead of studying the directions on the hotel website. I really wanted to travel by post bus instead of having my hotel picked up for free at Scoul station. And now I’m trudging sullenly along the street, dragging the suitcase behind me. It’s not that easy to end up in paradise.

Update 2018: Paradise has changed its concept and now functions as Club Privé – it is still possible to book rooms as a non-Club member.

A hideaway with history

The year was 1910, when the painter Hans Walter Beyer was inspired by the magnificent landscape of the Lower Engadine, we chose this pretty spot in front of Ftan with the name “Il Paradies” for his refuge. Initially used as a purely residential building, more and more guests came and went over the years. After several changes of ownership in recent years, the 5-star Hotel Paradies is a small, fine hideaway in the Engadine mountains. The term hideaway hits the nail on the head when it comes to paradise. In front of the hotel there are steeply sloping meadows and a pretty old mill. Behind the hotel, fir forests and wide fields. Apart from the hiking trail, which leads directly past it, nothing and no one disturbs the peace and quiet of the guests. A retreat for all those who long for a few days of peace and enjoyment of nature.

Living with a view of the mountains

We almost missed paradise because of the Google Maps mishap, but with detours we finally reach our destination. Nothing stands in the way of a relaxing weekend in the mountains. Our spacious suite is located in the main house directly below the Charn Alpina restaurant. At first glance, a somewhat strange room layout, but that’s because paradise has grown organically. Large windows bring the mountains directly into the living room. The furniture is restrained and discreet. Accents are skilfully set with details such as the fresh hazelnuts with nutcracker or the binoculars. A room to my liking.

Slow down with pleasure

For us, a day in paradise begins with a view of the mountains. The sky gives us a morning natural spectacle with its red glow. This is followed by an enjoyable breakfast. The morning buffet is lovingly prepared and includes some culinary surprises of the region. I can hardly decide whether I should first load my plate with the finest dried meat from Hatecke, the seductively fragrant Graubünden nut cake or with the fresh paradise muesli. I appreciate that there is a clear focus on regionality and, for example, that there are only two Graubünden mountain cheeses to choose from and that a wild selection of all kinds of foreign cheeses is deliberately avoided. Chapeau for that!

Afterwards, the fresh air of the mountains beckons. The Hotel Paradies is located directly on the hiking trail towards Ardez and Guarda. The hiking possibilities are almost unlimited. Countless valleys and peaks are waiting to be discovered. There is something for everyone, from leisurely walkers to ambitious mountaineers. On the first day, we opt for the most obvious route directly along the Camino de Santiago, from Hotel Paradies to Guarda. On the following day, we take a detour in the direction of Zernez in the Swiss National Park.

If you prefer a more relaxed atmosphere or if the weather doesn’t really play along, you will find cosy retreats in and around the hotel. When the weather is nice, guests can relax on the terrace with panoramic views of Tarasp Castle opposite. If the weather is nasty, you can enjoy the same panorama from the bar with a hot cup of tea and a crackling fire. The richly stocked library also exudes a rustic cosiness. Here you can easily endure a rainy day with an exciting book.

 

Not only mental but also physical moments of relaxation are provided. With a bubble bath, a steam bath and a sauna with a view of the landscape, the spa was deliberately not based on quantity, but on quality and uniqueness. Particularly nice is the roof terrace with two hot tubs in the middle of the mountains. The perfect setting to leave everyday life far behind.

A day in paradise ends, how could it be otherwise, with culinary highlights. Since the end of May 2014, the Austrian Gustav Jantscher has taken over the reins and ushered in a new era. The Hotel Paradies, which had had an excellent reputation as a Michelin-starred restaurant for decades, deliberately took a step backwards. Simple, natural, enjoyable – that’s the motto. In the evening, guests can choose from two restaurants. La Cucagna, which means land of milk and honey, and Charn Alpina – “alpine meat”. The successful implementation of the new concept of the Charn Alpina is based on a collaboration with the well-known master butcher Ludwig Hatecke from Scoul. In a way, the new concept was a risk. But it has paid off and with the 15 Gault-Millau points received in autumn 2014, you are exactly where you wanted to be. In addition to the buttery tender meat, I am particularly enthusiastic about the presentation of the dishes. Beautifully arranged, each plate is a small work of art.

We felt comfortable in paradise and can recommend it to everyone for a short break. The clear mountain air, the good food and the beautiful panorama truly provide paradisiacal moments. On 19 December, the hotel starts the winter season and offers a good starting point for a fantastic winter weekend thanks to its connection to the Scoul ski area, cross-country skiing trails (Dario Cologna trained here) and winter hiking trails. Double room prices start at 390 CHF / night including breakfast.

Note: I was invited to this stay by Hotel Paradies – thank you very much for this. As always, my readers can be sure that I always represent my views and enthusiasm here.