Ski and Kaiserschmarrn premiere in Sölden

Where do you go in autumn if you want to test skis in a good environment? “Either to Saas Fee or Sölden,” says a colleague, adding that they go to Sölden for a weekend every year at the beginning of the season. For me, ski testing is no longer worth it, because a few brand new Atomic Cloud Nines crept into my shopping basket last weekend (actually I just wanted to buy ski boots). Since the World Cup Ski Circus also starts its season at the end of October on the Rettenbach Glacier, my curiosity was aroused to try glacier skiing in Sölden despite having already bought skis.

Skiing also includes culinary delights. That’s why we start the weekend with an extensive meal in the Wine & Dine restaurant on the ground floor of the Hotel Bergland (including stuffed marmot as an observer). The notorious après-ski yelling can be easily avoided. While we enjoy the culinary delights inside, the snow is quietly trickling outside. I’m very happy that I have the journey through the Ötztal behind me and don’t have to fight my way through the masses of snow in the morning.

We spend the night at the Sporthotel Alpina directly in Sölden and enjoy the rich breakfast buffet the next morning. Afterwards we make our way to the Giggijoch valley station. We are lucky that the track is already open. Depending on the snow conditions, you have to drive up the glacier road to the Rettenbach glacier. Despite the gloomy weather, the crowds are huge. We are not the only ones who want to benefit from the November powder snow this Sunday – and there are masses of it thanks to intense precipitation through the night.

The Giggijochbahn takes us from 1,350 m above sea level directly up to 2,284 m above sea level. But that’s nothing. The entire ski area in Sölden includes around 70 lifts, 300 kilometres of slopes and 3,000 metres of elevation gain. From the Giggijoch we traverse from lift to lift in the direction of the glacier ski area. In Sölden, not one, but two glaciers are accessible by lifts. From the Rettenbach glacier we reach the Tiefenbach glacier through a ski tunnel. There’s a lot going on up here. The slopes are still far from overcrowded, but there are waiting times at some lifts.

The view remains a drop of melancholy. In Sölden, the so-called BIG 3 offer breathtaking views. No less than three three-thousand-metre peaks are accessible with modern cable cars and promise a unique high-altitude experience. The highest viewing platform is located at 3,340 m above sea level on the Schwarze Schneid and is thus only 500 metres below Tyrol’s highest mountain, the Wildspitze, which is virtually around the corner. However, we see very little of that on this day.

Fortunately, the visibility on the slopes is not quite as bad as the view of the Alpine panorama. The bumps on the slopes are clearly visible, and so I can ski my new skis with momentum. However, too much momentum is quickly punished, and I land rudely and upside down in the snow. My “ski test” also includes testing the crash capability of my new skis ;) (by the way, passed with flying colors).

Down by the Rettenbach Glacier we take a short coffee break in the lounge and hope that the hesitant rays of sunshine can prevail against the clouds. This is also where the ski test centers are located, where the Swiss specialist shops send you to test skis.

Since the clouds take over again and the visibility gets worse and worse, we drive back to the Giggijoch. In the tavern I treat myself to a dumpling soup to warm up. To top it all off, I try my very first Kaiserschmarrn. Our companion does not agree one hundred percent on how the Kaiserschmarrn got its name. It is clear that it has to do with the emperor and the Schmarrn does not refer to the taste because the dish tastes super delicious.

From December, you will be able to experience entirely new culinary highlights on the Gaislachkogl. That’s when the new, stylish IceQ with the motto “Alpine Cuisine” will be opened. Sölden will therefore continue to surprise us with innovation on the mountain.

Even though we unfortunately didn’t see anything of the panorama, Sölden surprised me positively with a wide range of offers – enjoyment, fun and action. However, if you go to Sölden, you should definitely not expect to have the ski area to yourself. Even though the people are well spread out in the extensive area, there is still a lot going on.

Note: I have been invited by Tirol Tourism to go glacier skiing. Thank you very much for this. Nevertheless, my readers can be sure that I always represent my own opinion and enthusiasm here.