With the bike through the Balagne

The cool wind whispers around my head. To the left and right, fragments of landscape whizz by. The narrow road winds its way down to the valley along the hills, and while I pedal along, the enthusiasm for cycling ignites. In recent years, I have criminally neglected this means of transport. But if you want to explore the hilly hinterland between Calvi and Ile Rousse, you should ideally grab an obedient bike and go on a discovery tour.

Panoramic tour through the hilly hinterland

The range of routes is varied – from leisurely to challenging, there is something for every level of riding. The queen of the cycling routes around Calvi is the “Panoramatour Ile Rousse”. It leads over 68 kilometres and 900 metres in altitude from Calvi over the Col de Battaglia across the Balagne. And that’s exactly the tour we want to tackle. But first of all, it is important to complete a test round under the expert eye of the cycling guide Yann in the holiday village of the Stubborn Donkey. Cycling is only fun if you feel comfortable on it. In the holiday village, new KTM mountain bikes including helmets can be rented for 22 euros per day. In addition, guided bike tours are carried out weekly.

After we are well equipped, we can start. However, we cheat a bit when it comes to altitude. The first stage from Lumio along the “Panoramico” up to the pass we can enjoy the view from the bus – thanks to bike trailers. Secretly, I’m relieved that I don’t have to pedal up the 900 meters of altitude completely with my own muscle power. For the sports cannons among you, however, this is certainly a challenging task.

Once at the pass, we change from the bus to the mountain bike. For the first 15 minutes, the road leads rapidly downhill in the direction of Olmi-Capella. Afterwards we cycle straight ahead at a leisurely pace through a road lined with chestnut trees. It doesn’t work completely without inclines. Before our condition is put to the test, we treat ourselves to a hearty snack in the shade of an old chestnut tree. In addition to sausage and cheese, chestnut farmer Ivo Poli also serves us extremely nutritious and delicious chestnut cakes.

Freshly strengthened, we tackle the most strenuous part of the day. The cycle path follows the D963 towards Palasca. Only rarely does a car cross us. More often, on the other hand, we encounter cows on the side of the road. Shortly before Toccone, our road joins the island’s former “highway”, the N197. Our destination, the picturesque Belgodère, is only a stone’s throw away. After about three hours of cycling, my butt is already slightly indignant from the unfamiliar activity. Otherwise, I’m very excited! The desire to cycle is finally awakened again and I would have loved to pedal the last few kilometers to the sandy beach of Ile Rousse.

Places of interest on the way

The Balagne is nicknamed the “Garden of Corsica”. Olives, oranges, clementines, grapes and chestnuts grow between the small villages interspersed. Agriculture is still one of the most important sources of income here. If you explore the area by bike, there are several opportunities to gain insights into the culture and cuisine of Corsica. In the vicinity of Montegrosse, for example, the old olive mill “U Fragnu” can be visited. We are greeted by a “real” donkey, which stands in the shade under the olive tree in front of the mill. If olive oil is produced according to ancient tradition, he must drive the olive mill. I learn here that black and green olives are not different varieties, but that the black olives have simply ripened longer. Did you know?

At Domaine Alzipratu near Zilia, they are experimenting with grapes. In addition to the traditional wine maturation in wooden barrels, concave concrete barrels have also been used since last year. A short tasting stop on the way back to Calvi is always worthwhile here.

Sant’Antonino, which is officially one of the most beautiful villages in France with the title “Les plus beaux villages de France”, is one of the most popular destinations for cyclists. High up and visible from afar, it towers over the hilly landscape of Balagne. And it is precisely to this privileged location that Sant’Antonino probably owes this title. The view from the village is undeniably phenomenal, but in my opinion, the mountain villages of Speloncato and Palasca are prettier from a purely visual point of view. For an intermediate refreshment, I can recommend a detour to the restaurant “a Stalla”. The roof terrace is particularly secluded and tasty Corsican food is served. My tip for a refreshing summer menu: zucchini beignets as a starter and then a portion of cannelloni with brocciu cheese.

Relaxation at the finish line

If you are on the “Panoramatour Ile Rousse”, you should plan a lunch break at the restaurant L’Acula Marina. Here you can relax with a view of the beautiful sandy bay and the turquoise shimmering sea. From here back to Calvi you can either go uphill to Corbara and from there via Lumio back to the holiday village. If you prefer to take a leisurely approach to the second half of the day, you can end the afternoon on the sandy beach and then chug back to Calvi by train.

I was invited to this trip by the Corsica specialist Rhomberg-Reisen. Thank you very much for this! – As always, my readers can be sure that I always represent my views and enthusiasm.