5 excursion destinations and sights in the Jura & Three Lakes Region

This article was created in collaboration with the Jura & Three-Lakes Region and the regional association of Hotelleriesuisse and contains advertising

I always like to travel to the northwestern tip of Switzerland. With its deep gorges, wide plateaus as well as characteristic towns and small hamlets, the Jura & Three-Lakes region is one of the most scenically diverse areas in Switzerland for me. Here on the blog I have already reported on some excursion destinations and hikes in the Jura & Three-Lakes region. At the beginning of July, I once again went on a foray and got to know new facets of the region. While in previous visits the sporting part often predominated, this time the focus was on regional enjoyment.

1. Flying visit to the green fairy

In keeping with the focus on pleasure, my tour starts on Friday afternoon in the friendly dining room of the restaurant Les Six-Communes in the village center of Môtiers in the Val-de-Travers. As a prelude, there is a refreshment in the form of a delicious summer salad with goat cheese from the Chasseral. Afterwards I explore the beautifully spruced up village centre of Môtiers. Right next to the striking “Hôtel des Six-Communes” (with its arcades not to be overlooked) is the equally striking church and the former Benedictine monastery, which today houses the famous Mauler sparkling wine cellar. Unfortunately, there is not enough time to taste the tasty sparkling wine. I am expected in the former building of the district court. Since 2014, the Maison de l’Absinthe has been addressing the myth of the “Green Fairy” where absinthe distillers used to be held accountable.

The Maison de l’Absinthe introduces me as a visitor to the wicked world of absinthe over three floors. I learn which herbs are used for absinthe (and have an “aha” moment when I realize that “absinthe” and “wormwood” are one and the same plant). One floor below, the Maison de l’Absinthe travels back to the 19th century, where absinthe was the drink of the great artists and was then demonized and banned. One room further on, local personalities who produced absinthe despite Prohibition are portrayed. The exhibition is rounded off with a herb garden where the five main ingredients of absinthe thrive; The big and small wormwood, lemon balm, mint and hyssop. In addition, anise and fennel are added to each absinthe – and the rest is a well-kept “fine-tuning”, as I learn a few minutes later at the Bovet La Valote absinthe distillery. The founder of the distillery, Willy Bovet, also belonged to the guild of black distillers. However, he was never caught, as his daughter, who now runs the business, tells me. The ban on absinthe was lifted after almost 100 years on 1 March 2005 – just one month later, Willy Bovet had opened his distillery with a public tasting and sales room. I taste my way through the four different absinthe varieties from Bovet and choose the “Septante7” as my personal favorite.

All the stories about the green fairy and her roots here in the region make you want to discover more of it. A good overview of the topic and the establishments/activities associated with it is provided by the Absinthe Road, which leads from Noiraigue to Pontarlier. I now follow this for a while towards Couvet.

2. Regional delights on a trip to Val-de-Travers

Absinthe also plays an important role in the cuisine of the traditional Hôtel de l’Aigle. The distinctively situated inn from the 18th century prefers to spoil its guests with local products. Ideally, the vegetables come directly from the adjacent garden in the summer months and the meat is based on water buffalo from the neighboring village. This afternoon, I get to look over the shoulders of the chef of the house as he prepares three absinthe dessert variations. Pots and pans are handled incredibly quickly, and before I know it, I can taste the first dessert: an airy sweet absinthe sabayon. Almost as fast as the first, the second dessert is also prepared. From 1dl full cream, a vanilla bean, 120g egg yolk, 120g sugar and 1dl absinthe, the chef conjures up the basis for a fine crème brûlée – a bestseller of the house. Equally popular is the homemade parfait glacé à l’Absinthe. A deliciously refreshing dessert that makes me taste the absinthe well.

After this brief look behind the scenes, I enjoy the balmy summer evening on the secluded green hotel terrace. What really excites me about this company is the creativity and commitment of the young team. The aperitif menu includes not only boring standard drinks, but also local variations such as the Absinthe Fizz Cocktail. Later, I feast on a bondelle fillet (a type of fish endemic to Lake Neuchâtel and Lake Biel) with absinthe foam and the buffalo meat tartare. Both are very tasty and the small bistro menu also makes you really “happy”.

3. Burn off calories on the Creux-du-Van bike tour

After Friday’s extensive feasting, it’s time to get out into the fresh air today. I take the train from Couvet to Noiraigue, where I pick up my e-bike. The rental station is located directly at the train station and the rental is totally uncomplicated. 10 minutes after my arrival I am ready to go. Today, the Creux-du-Van Tour covers 52 kilometres and 1,000 metres in altitude. At the beginning, I was unsure whether I would be able to “survive” this round on my own. But the doubts were unfounded. The well-signposted bike tour leads mostly on little-used roads from Noiraigue via Travers up to Le Soliat – thanks to the e-bike motor, even the 1,000 metres of altitude difference in between are not a “cramp”. At the mountain restaurant Le Soliat, I leave my bike behind and walk to the crater rim of Creux-du-Van. It’s not my first visit up here – but the view is impressive every time. The Creux-du-Van has also gained extreme popularity in recent years and accordingly photos are being taken all around me.

Before continuing my journey, I treat myself to a short breather on the sun terrace of Le Soliat and order a plate for refreshment. Then I get back on my bike and cycle on. Also on the second section of the route between Les Rochats and Couvet I hardly meet anyone; two or three cars overtake me – but that’s about it. The only unpleasant section is the junction up to Le Soliat. There you share the road with the day-trippers who jet up in the car – and from a cyclist’s point of view, this sometimes leads to unsightly, oppressive overtaking manoeuvres. On the way back from Couvet to Noiraigue, the cycle path passes by the asphalt mines of la Presta, which are also worth a stop.

4. All sorts of surprises in la Chaux-de-Fonds

Back in Noiraigue I return my e-bike and then ride via Neuchâtel to the watch metropolis of La Chaux-de-Fonds. Since I was on my bike faster than originally thought, I spontaneously have time for a stroll through the city in Chaux-de-Fonds. And of course, I don’t miss the opportunity to head for the Espacité Tower once again. Whether you think the tower, which was built in the 1990s, is beautiful or ugly – that’s debatable. It is clear that it is one of the landmarks of La Chaux-de-Fonds and that the observation deck on the top floor, which is accessible free of charge, offers a great panoramic view over the strictly orthogonal street grid of the old town of la Chaux-de-Fonds. Together with the neighbouring town of Le Locle, La Chaux-de-Fonds has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2009.

Later, I am picked up by my host for the day, the Grand Hôtel les Endroits, right in front of the Espacité tower and chauffeured to the heights above la Chaux-de-Fonds. Less than 2 kilometres from the train station, we are here in the middle of the countryside surrounded by wide Jura pastures. I would not have immediately associated such an oasis of peace with the otherwise austere cityscape of La Chaux-de-Fonds. Like the Hôtel de l’Aigle, the Grand Hôtel les Endroits is a family-run business that is constantly investing. The latest achievement of the house is a modern, two-storey wellness area with indoor and outdoor pool as well as a beautifully designed sauna area. Again, I meet absinthe. This can be found in the absinthe sauna in the form of a finely scented herbal bowl.

Shortly before dinner, I take a look at the hotel kitchen. Classic French cuisine lays the foundation for chef Stéphan Vogt’s creative work. He relies on tried-and-tested classics, to which he imposes his own signature with sophistication. He shows me what that means using the example of tomato-mozzarella salad à la mode du Chef. The mozzarella is refined together with cream, formed into a fine creamy mass and served in a puff pastry. In addition, there are freshly picked tomatoes from the Seeland and a homemade basil pesto. Simply good!

5. Simply good! – Excursion on the Etang de la Gruère

It just goes well the next day. My pleasure tour is slowly coming to an end, but I don’t want to let the wonderfully sunny Sunday pass unused. After an early breakfast, I make my way to the Franches-Montagnes. At the Etang de la Gruère in Saignelégier, Marie-Luise Wenger is waiting for me. Born in the Rhine Valley, she ran the Restaurant de la Goule on the Doubs together with her husband for many years. Even then, she was interested in the variety of plants and herbs in the pastures and meadows around the Doubs. In recent years, she has deepened this knowledge and changed careers. Instead of preparing dishes in a comfortable restaurant kitchen, she now mainly cooks outdoors in nature on fire and offers courses in wild herbs. “It calms my guests down when they see that it can also be simple,” Marie-Luise Wenger tells me on a walk around the Etang de la Gruère. The realisation that even the simplest ingredients can be used to prepare delicacies directly from the nature that surrounds us probably cheers up our slumbering “hunter-gatherer” genes. On the walk around the idyllic moor lake, there is still little going on in the early morning. “At this time, only the locals are out and about,” says Marie-Luise Wenger as she leads me to a rest area with a fireplace not far from the Etang de la Grère. To bridge the cooking time of the trout, she serves up all kinds of regional delicacies. A wonderfully simple lunch that tastes three times as good out in the Franches-Montagnes as at any kitchen table.

And then it’s au revoir again! I take the train from Noirmont back to Zurich and while landscapes rush past me through the train window, I review the past 2.5 days. I would have liked to spend a little more time in the Val-de-Travers and take a detour to the romantic gorge Poëta Raisse near Môtiers or explore the plateau of la Brévine by bike. But I’m sure there will be a next time. Until then, a bottle of absinthe in my luggage reminds me of the “Goût” of the region.

Practical information for an enjoyable discovery of the Jura & Three-Lakes region

• At Hotel de l’Aigle, room rates vary depending on the season. The overnight stay in a double room costs from 184 CHF / night including breakfast. The Hôtel de l’Aigle also offers various activities and complementary services in the Val-de-Travers. An overview of the offers can be found on the Goût & Region page.
• At Hotel les Endroits, prices also vary seasonally. The overnight stay in a double room including breakfast costs from 306 CHF / night. In addition, the Hotel Les Endroits offers various packages (including gourmet and spa). The offers can be found on the website.
• If you stay in hotels in the canton of Neuchâtel, you will receive the Neuchâtel Tourist Card, which, in addition to free travel on all public transport, includes various services (including the daily rental of a bicycle and admission to 25 museums).
• The e-bikes for the Creux-du-Van Tour can be reserved online via Rent a Bike. The rental station in Noiraigue is open daily from 9:00 a.m. – 6:00 p.m. and the daily rent for the flyer is 55 CHF.
• The Maison de l’Absinthe is open from Tuesday to Sunday (closed on Mondays). Admission to the exhibition costs CHF 11 for adults. There is also the possibility to taste absinthe.