Spiekeroog: Time out on the East Frisian Islands

Despite all the similarities, each of the seven inhabited East Frisian Islands is different, I was assured before my trip to East Frisia. So it was obvious that I wanted to find out whether the islanders on the different islands actually tick differently. And so, after two wonderful postcard days on Langeoog, I made my way to Spiekeroog. I had already spotted the neighbouring island the day before from the observation platform at Osterhook. The distance between Langeoog and Spiekeroog is not far, but the Wadden Sea is definitely too cold to swim over. Although the Wadden Sea recedes far at low tide, the areas between the islands are always covered with water. Therefore, although it is possible to walk from the islands to the mainland at low tide, it is not possible to walk to the next island. And so my island hopping first takes me from Langeoog back to the mainland. The ferries to Spiekeroog dock in the port of Neuharlingersiel and the timetable varies depending on the tides – in contrast to the ferry service to Langeoog. If you’re early, it’s best to take a tour of the idyllic fishing harbour and marvel at the colourful cutters.

The biggest difference between Langeoog and Spiekeroog is the fact that cycling is prohibited on Spiekeroog during the day. While everyone from young to old cycles on Langeoog, guests on Spiekeroog move around with handcarts. Pure deceleration. What particularly distinguishes Spiekeroog is the idyllic village centre with numerous old clinker houses. The people of Langeoog like to joke about the fact that it always rains on Spiekeroog. Well, if I compare my weather luck on Langeoog with the cloudy and wet days on Spiekeroog, there could be some truth to that. But it’s not a tragedy when the sky over Spiekeroog turns grey into grey into the Wadden Sea. My tip: First of all, visit the bookstore Inselzauber, equip yourself with an exciting crime novel, look for a cozy spot in a café and order a sea buckthorn trough.

A lazy day on Spiekeroog

Since cycling is prohibited and the gloomy weather did not lure us outside, my island days on Spiekeroog were quite lazy and enjoyable. In no time at all, I had chosen the bakery and island roastery Portbord as my favorite place for breakfast. The restaurant is sensationally furnished and offers a really delicious breakfast selection. Just behind the café, the walks through the dune landscape begin. With a length of ten kilometres, there are plenty of opportunities for long walks on the beach or circular walks around the island. I choose a short loop and walk up to the viewpoint “Utkieker”. Afterwards I fortify myself in the old island house with East Frisian tea and eggnog cream cake and let myself be pampered in the DünenSpa with a “Thalasso for the back” treatment. InselBad and DünenSpa are a great alternative for bad weather days and the wellness area is really nicely designed. In addition to a thalasso treatment, I can recommend the dune sauna at the top of the roof. Here you sweat with a dream view over the dune landscape.

Off to the Wadden Sea

Properly warmed up by the sauna, I’m ready for a trip to the Wadden Sea. National Park mudflat guide Carsten Heithecker wants to bring us closer to the unique landscape characterized by ebb and flow on a mudflat hike. For this, we are first equipped with rubber boots. Then we go in search of the mudflats – they only show up if you look closely and dig beneath the surface. The heroes of the mudflats are sand eaters, living in a U-shaped tube and digging up the sandy mudflats. At first, I mistakenly think the small elongated heaps of sand on the mudflats are the lugworm. “Just lugworm poop,” Carsten Heithecker intervenes and stabs his fork into the ground to show us a real lugworm. The worms form the basis of life for many other mudflat dwellers and – despite their not so photogenic appearance – have become a symbolic figure of the unique ecosystem of the Wadden Sea. After two hours we return to Spiekeroog with sandy hands and many exciting impressions of the mudflats. To warm up, I treat myself to a second high-calorie piece of cake that day. This time there is sea buckthorn cake with the East Frisian tea. If I were to spend a whole week’s holiday here on Spiekeroog, I would have to start a detox cure immediately afterwards. Because despite a large piece of cake, there is still enough appetite for a fine dinner in the captain’s house. For me, the culinary island highlight (perhaps influenced by the waiter’s nice “Grüezi”, who charmingly incorporated one or the other Swiss expression into the conversation). Cafe Teetied is also a fine address.

You won’t find a bike rental on Spiekeroog, which is the most striking difference to Langeoog. Spiekeroog scores with its pretty village centre, which is worth walking, with the many nice cafés and the extensive network of footpaths. If you are looking for peace and quiet, you are guaranteed to find it on Spiekeroog.

Note: This research trip was kindly supported by the North Sea island of Spiekeroog and the German National Tourist Board. All impressions/opinions are, as always, mine.