Chedi Andermatt in the check – about luxury life and powder slopes

Devilish approach from Göschenen

I am on the train from Göschenen to Andermatt. Although only two hours away from Zurich, I have never visited the mountain village, which is omnipresent in the media. The last stage from Göschenen to Andermatt takes just under 10 minutes, but leads through a mystical primeval landscape. The Schöllenen Gorge was considered impregnable for centuries until the legendary Devil’s Bridge was built over the wild Reuss in the 13th century.

New start at the Chedi Andermatt

Since 20 December 2013, the massive building façade of the Chedi Andermatt has been the new prelude to Andermatt just opposite the Andermatt railway station, where a grand hotel with a view of the undeveloped beauty of the Urseren Valley stood in the days of the Belle Epoque. The hotel, part of the overall Andermatt Swiss Alps project, has been regularly in the media in recent years. Among other things, the discussion included “Is Andermatt the right place for a five-star deluxe hotel and will the pampered guests really include the (still) modest Andermatt in their annual holiday programme in the near future instead of Gstaad, St. Moritz or Verbier?”. Opinions are divided.

From the outside, the chedi looks like an oversized chalet. The large window fronts are skilfully hidden behind wooden elements of red firs. Rotfirnen because the vital protective forest on the steep slopes around Andermatt also consists of red firs. Without a protective forest, there is no Andermatt.

Opposite the train station, however, there is no main entrance, but only a modest side entrance to the “ski room” and the bar, which, by the way, is accessible to all guests and has already blossomed into a popular après-ski meeting place within a short time.

The main entrance is about 150 m from the train station and is unmistakable thanks to the pompous glass front. Inside, however, I am confused at first. Where is the reception? I actually didn’t find the reception without help, as at first glance I thought it was a bar due to the wine bottles on display. So much for functional and logical design. Equally confusing and impressive at the same time are the almost lavishly large room dimensions in the lobby. Sofas, cushions and countless wooden fireplaces offer space to linger without guests getting in each other’s way.

100 m2 of pure luxury

In a total of four chalets, 104 rooms and suites have been realized. The living space per room is just as generous as the lobby area. The smallest room sizes start at around 50 m2 (that’s how big my 2-room apartment was when I was a student). I am allowed to stay in a deluxe suite that is so big that I could easily invite all my friends to the house party. Architect Jean-Michel Gathy has skilfully combined Asian elements with local materials in the rooms. Although, in my opinion, the overall appearance came out a shade too dark. In contrast to the light-flooded rooms in typical grand hotel style, the sun’s rays are swallowed up directly by the dark wood. The large mural behind the bed also raises one or two question marks among my fellow travelers and me, but apparently redesign work is already planned.

Teething troubles are noticeable in the fireplace. After searching in vain for the “pick-up button”, I am told at the reception that I can only control the fireplace via the iPad (which is also used to control all other room functions – but there are also physical buttons for them). Unfortunately, the puny flames don’t evoke any fireplace romance in me. With over 200 fireplaces (wood and gas), however, it is also a technical tinkering process until the correctly dosed air supply in all rooms is right.

Küchenkunst

Culinarily, the Chedi has not yet completely convinced me. On the one hand, we enjoyed a dinner at The Restaurant which was good average but definitely not a revelation. The service also has potential to improve here. In the same restaurant, the breakfast buffet is also served, which trumps above all with its large selection including a huge cheese room. Be sure to try the regional cheese specialties here. If something is not prepared at the buffet, the cheese can also be brought out separately on request.

The Japanese Restaurant is a little more exclusive. The restaurant seats forty guests and brings an Asian touch to the Swiss mountains. If you like to eat sushi and sashimi, you’ll get your money’s worth here. For me, the dessert was definitely the gourmet highlight at the Chedi.

Oasis of well-being – Chedi Andermatt Spa

The spa does what it promises. I was particularly impressed by the unique services at the indoor pool. Small snacks and a soft drink are served free of charge. Additional drinks and tapas can be ordered at moderate prices. I treat myself to a mango lassi and enjoy a relaxing hour on the comfortable loungers next to the pool. Afterwards, I explore the rest of the spa area and don’t miss a soothing bath in the three pools of different temperatures, the so-called hydrotherapy.

The Ski Butler

The interpretation and implementation of the ski room (in most hotels a narrow storage room in the basement) exemplifies how the chedi tries to offer the guest a unique experience. So to speak, the all-round carefree package for people with a well-filled wallet. The ski room has the melodious name “The Living Room”. Sofas and sitting areas invite you to linger, helpful staff will answer all questions and for guests without equipment, everything will be put together on site. It’s an exciting concept, but it doesn’t work quite smoothly when there is a big rush.

Old core of Andermatt

After we have taken a close look at the hotel (and one or the other got lost in the spacious corridors), we would like to get an impression of Andermatt. Andermatt has an eventful past. The only thing that is constant is the constant change. The village centre is made up of different eras and forms more of a heterogeneous patchwork than a uniform chalet style. A prime example of this are, for example, a few eye-catching Bernese chalets, which were built by Bernese soldiers during the “military era” and heyday of the Reduit as a reminder of their homeland. Today, between the chalets, you can see the construction cranes that herald a new era. But Andermatt definitely doesn’t look dusty. In the centre of the village there are some architectural gems – historical and modern – to visit. In addition, the legendary, freaky Birdos freeride skis are manufactured in Andermatt. I also want a lady like that on my next ski! But if you’re looking for exclusive fashion boutiques, you’ll look in vain. I would love to know what the two fur-wearing Russian women walking through Andermatt in front of me think of it. Boring or finally something different?

Freeride paradise – skiing in Andermatt

The view from the window of my Deluxe Suite brings disillusionment the next morning. The bright blue sky from the day before has given way to fog and intense snowfall. I regret that I classified myself as a “very good skier” in a moment of overconfidence. Today we want to tackle the legendary steep slopes on the Gemsstock. The ski butler drives us with the limousine (definitely the most unsuitable ski transfer vehicle ever) to the valley station of the Gemsstock. The day ticket costs 57 CHF for adults. From 1,400 m, the cable car takes us directly up to almost 3,000 m above sea level. A red and a black slope (with the legendary Bernhard-Russi-Run) lead from here down to the Gurschenalp – a theoretical 4 km of highly demanding slope fun for experienced skiers. For me, however, on this day it was more like fighting against the masses of snow, the lack of visibility and the threat of nausea (do you know that feeling when you don’t know what’s up and down anymore because of all the white?). I can’t really enjoy the great fresh snow.

Nevertheless, I intend to make another trip to the Gemsstock when the weather is nice. Here you can still ski “like in the good old days”. No fancy, old lifts but slopes with addictive potential.

I’m curious to see if the high society finds these slopes so irresistible that they turn their backs on Gstaad and St. Moritz, or whether they will spend their days in the spa and the suites….

Family Fun

The next morning pleases us with friendlier weather. Before returning to Zurich, I take the opportunity for a short trip to the Nätschen on the south side of Andermatt. You can get to the ski area either by chairlift or by taking the Matterhorn-Gotthard cable car from Andermatt station. In contrast to the shady and steep Gemsstock, the sunny and easier slopes are located on this side. In addition to the clear slopes, the toboggan run to Andermatt on the Oberalp Pass road, which is traffic-free in winter, is also popular with families and day-trippers.

Dreams of the future – Chalets Andermatt

With the opening of the Chedi Andermatt, Samih Sawiris has achieved the first milestone in realising his gigantic vision of the Andermatt Swiss Alps. In the near future, a further five hotels, 42 residential buildings, congress facilities, sports facilities and the connection of the SkiArena Andermatt-Sedrun are to follow. We are excited.

Note: I was invited to this trip by GHM Hotels. As always, my readers can be sure that I always represent my views and enthusiasm here.