Fjords in Norway for those in a hurry with a cruise and Flambahn
Where do I start? I was faced with this question a few weeks before the planned trip to Norway. The envisaged goal of travelling Norway as seamlessly as possible by public transport was unexpectedly not the brake block, but a bubbling source of inspiration. Norway has no shortage of scenic railway lines – for example, there is the Rauma Railway, where parts of the last Harry Potter film were filmed, the Bergen Railway, which is considered one of the most beautiful railway lines in the world, or the Flåm Railway, which runs through spectacular landscapes.
A popular round trip that combines two of the above-mentioned railway routes with a detour to the fjords is “Norway in a nutshell“. In a short time, you get a diverse impression of the fascinating landscapes of Norway. Since we wanted to take the Bergen Railway from Oslo across the mountain plateau to Bergen anyway, the round trip offered the perfect package to incorporate some highlights in between into the trip.
“Norway in a nutshell” can be started in Oslo, Bergen or Voss and is carried out both as a complete round trip (duration about 22 hours) or as a simple tour (duration about 14 hours). The tour can be combined with overnight stops along the way. We decided to make a stopover in Flåm at the Aurlandsfjord, one of the side arms of the mighty Sognefjord.
With the Bergen Railway from Oslo to Myrdal
Our journey begins in Oslo with an unexpected adventure. Due to construction work, the Bergen Railway only ran from Honefoss. So early in the morning, all tourists line up more or less patiently in a long queue and wait until they are crammed into one of the umpteen waiting replacement buses. All of a sudden, I realize that I’ve gotten involved in the full tourist program here – although that doesn’t necessarily have to be a bad thing. After we have also found a seat on the bus, we can start. After about an hour we reach the small town, which owes its name to a mighty waterfall in the middle of the village. The bus driver actually manages to get lost twice until he finally finds the train station. From here, everything goes according to plan.
Seats on the Bergen Railway are reserved. Fortunately, this makes it possible to get in in a controlled manner without using an elbow. The railway runs 500 kilometres from east to west across the country. At the same time, the landscape is constantly changing. The lush green meadows and blue streams slowly give way to a harsh high mountain landscape. Shortly before the highest stop, Finse at 1,222 m above sea level, the train passes foothills of the Hardangervidda, Northern Europe’s largest plateau.
800 impressive vertical meters down to Flåm
Around noon we reach the small train station Myrdal, where our first stage ends. Just across the street is the Flåm Railway, which runs from Myrdal at 867 m above sea level in an hour down to Flåm in the innermost part of the Aurlandsfjord at 2 m above sea level. This route is not only scenically impressive, but also interesting from a railway point of view. After all, it is considered the steepest, single-track railway line in Northern Europe. No seats can be reserved on this train, but thanks to clever transfer tactics, we easily get two window seats. They are also worth it, because the view of idyllic Flåmsdalen makes this section a real experience. The highlight is the stop at the imposing Kjosfossen. The magnificent waterfall can be admired up close.
Magical fjord landscapes between Flåm and Gudvangen
In Flåm we take a day off before continuing the journey by boat. The third stage of the tour takes us into the beautiful fjord landscape. Passing picturesque villages such as Aurland and Undredal, we leave the Aurlandsfjord behind us and turn into the Nærøyfjord. This narrow branch of the Sognefjord is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We are amazed by the numerous waterfalls that thunder down the steep rock faces to the left and right of the fjord. At its narrowest point, it is just 250 m wide. But we are not the only ones who are enthusiastic about the landscape. The ship is full of tour groups and individual tourists. Sitting next to us are two Americans who started in Oslo in the morning and will return there in the evening. After so much haste, even we can only be amazed. From the ship, we spot canoeists resting in lonely bays and plan to try this type of travel next time.
Gudvangen – Voss – Bergen: by bus and train to your destination
On the last two stages from Gudvangen by bus to Voss and from there by Bergen Railway to Bergen, we let the landscapes pass by the window. My thoughts got stuck somewhere in the fjords, trying to sort out and process all the powerful impressions. Only on the steep “Stalheimskleiva” road, which winds through a total of thirteen hairpin bends, do I hold my breath for a moment. But the Norwegians really build roads everywhere! Around 19:00 we reach mountains saturated with scenic superlatives. When you consider that you can easily do the tour in one day, it’s huge what variety you get for it. For us, it was definitely a successful start to our Norway adventure.
Info and tips:
- One Way “Norway in a nutshell” Ticket Oslo – Bergen 1’550 NOK pro Person
- Tour also feasible as a day trip Oslo-Oslo (you are on the road for about 22 hours)
- Tours operate all year round
- Seat reservation on the Bergen Railway makes sense
- The Flåm Railway and the “Fjord Cruise” are touristy
- My tip: Plan one or two stops along the way and go on hikes on site
Note: The trip was supported by Fjord Tours. Thank you very much for this! As always, my readers can be sure that I always represent my views and enthusiasm.
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