Day trip to Lake Lucerne – boat trip from Lucerne

– This article was created in cooperation with SBB RailAway –

Hair disheveled by the breeze, mountain views, a fine plate and a slight rocking. Is there anything better than relaxing on the sun deck of a ship on a beautiful spring day? At least I returned to Zurich wonderfully grounded after our recent boat trip on Lake Lucerne in the evening. As if I had been far away for a short time on vacation.

Start of the boat trip on Lake Lucerne in Lucerne

But we didn’t start the day as sunny as it seems. The view from the bedroom window was sobering shortly after seven o’clock. The clouds still had Zurich firmly in their grip. Nevertheless, we laced up our hiking boots and made our way to Lucerne. After strenuous days at the office, I felt like fresh air and distant views. The plan: A leisurely boat trip to Bauen, have a fine lunch there and then walk to the Rütli. Two years ago we hiked the first stage of the Swiss Way (Flüelen-Bauen) and now we want to get to know the rest of the piece. We use the time between the arrival of the train and the departure of the 9:12 a.m. scheduled boat from Lucerne to Flüelen for a short stroll through the old town. In the winding alleys there are great shops and cafés, such as the “Mardi Gras” to discover. The ten minutes for the first cappuccino of the day were enough to put an end to the clouds.

Ahoy Sun Deck – Excursion by boat from Lucerne to Bauen

Back at the landing stage, we join the queue of people in front of the “Schwyz” – our scheduled ship. We are not the only ones who have bravely gambled for an improvement in the weather. On the sun deck of the first class, the first thing I have to do is find a comfortable spot in the sun – after all, the journey to Bauen takes a good two hours – and then I treat myself to the second cappuccino of this Sunday. Put your feet up, unpack your book, put on your sunglasses: wonderful! We set off, letting Lucerne get smaller and smaller, admiring the lush green meadows and the snow-capped peaks in the distance. The further we drive towards Bürgenstock, the more impressive the mountain scenery appears in front of us. I am always amazed by the scenic beauty of Lake Lucerne. After about an hour we dock in Vitznau. My cappuccino is now empty and so is the ship. Most day-trippers change to the Rigi Railway here. Also good, so we have the sun deck to ourselves. We think this is the right time for a hearty aperitif. We order sliced Engelberg dry sausage with Uri alpine cheese and pickled vegetables (16.50 CHF) and toast with a glass of Müller-Thurgau from the Brunner Weinmanufaktur (1 dl 8 CHF). The culinary offer is a positive surprise for me. Less commendable is the development of the weather. I had actually reserved a terrace seat for lunch. But shortly after casting off in Brunnen, dark rain clouds accumulate around Lake Uri. Will the weather hold?

Lunch break in the Zwyssighaus

We let it come to us and move the terrace place to the cozy restaurant of the Zwyssighaus for the time being. The listed house in the centre of Bauen is the birthplace of the composer of the Swiss national anthem, Father Alberik Zwyssig. I didn’t realize that until I was standing right next to it (admittedly, I didn’t know who composed the Swiss Psalm until then). I chose the Zwyssighaus because it caught my eye while researching casual pubs and restaurants around Lake Lucerne. In April of this year, new tenants took over the management of the restaurant. The menu is kept simple according to my taste. A four-course tasting menu for CHF 78 and a small, fine à la carte selection. The friend orders the duo of beer pork with wild garlic and sweet potatoes and I opt for the zander fillet with mashed potatoes and seasonal vegetables. For dessert, we share a pear tarte tatin with sour cream ice cream. Conclusion: very fine! And almost a bit too much considering the fact that we still have a good 500 meters of altitude ahead of us. Ideally, you hike first and then stop for a bite to eat.

On Switzerland’s path from Bauen to Rütli along Lake Lucerne

And so, after this sumptuous midday meal, we fight our way up through the forest to Brunni. Although, with every meter of altitude it gets easier and the sight of the great panoramic view over Lake Uri increases the motivation. The Swiss Way leads in 16 kilometres from Seelisberg to Flüelen (also possible in the opposite direction). The hiking time for the entire route is around five hours. For the partial stage from Bauen to Seelisberg, three hours are to be calculated. The distance is perfect for those who want to combine the boat trip with an active part. As soon as the altitude difference has been overcome, the path leads in a slight up and down past Beroldingen Castle and through the magnificent Tannwald forest to Seelisberg. With great vantage points and beautifully situated benches, there is no stinginess on the way. Instead of following the official route, turn right shortly after Oberdorf and choose the “Direttissima” to the Rütli. If you have knee problems, it is recommended to walk the arch via Furli.

At the Rütli boat station, we wait for the next scheduled boat to take us back to Lucerne and agree: It would have been a shame if we had skipped this excursion because of a few disturbing clouds.