Hiking weekend – architecture in the Bregenzerwald

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A few kilometres from Lake Constance, surrounded by gentle, lush green hills, lie the 23 tranquil villages of the Bregenzerwald. The Vorarlberg region is a great place to hike, cycle and relax. However, the Bregenzerwald is not only an oasis of peace, but also a source of inspiration for those of us who are interested in the prudent design of public spaces.

Is your curiosity piqued? Then you’re like me. Addressed by this aspect, I set out on the trail of building culture and show in this article how the Bregenzerwald skilfully bridges the gap between nature and cultural experiences.

The Bregenzerwald Architecture Trail at a glance

Our “red thread” in the planning of the hiking weekend in the Bregenzerwald was the “Architecture Trail“. The long-distance hiking trail, which is designed as a package, leads in five daily stages from Krumbach via Schwarzenberg to Au and passes numerous buildings worth seeing and examples of innovative wooden architecture. The package includes, among other things, six nights in a hotel, luggage transport between the overnight accommodations (i.e. you only have to carry your daypack on your back), a hiking brochure with the architectural highlights as well as the book and folder set “How to deal with the Bregenzerwald”, the guest card and the GPS tracks of the individual hiking routes.

For reasons of time, but also due to the fact that individual stages in May, when we were on the road in the Bregenzerwald, still ran in the snow, we picked out three daily stages. My conclusion: Whether you wander the entire architectural trail or, like us, “only” set off on the trail of building culture for a weekend – an inspiring change of scenery is guaranteed.

Our highlights on the Architecture Trail

BUS:STOP Krumbach

The Architecture Trail starts in Krumbach and we also first go to the village whose “courage to try something new” caused a stir far beyond Austria’s borders. In 2014, seven international architectural firms were invited to design seven different bus stops in Krumbach. This is done in cooperation with local craftsmen and with the use of traditional materials. The result of the Bus:Stop Krumbach project are seven fundamentally different small buildings, all of which meet certain basic requirements (e.g. ensuring a line of sight from the road to the waiting area, so that the bus driver can see whether someone is waiting for the bus).

Hike through the moorland of the Nagelfluhkette Nature Park

One of these seven stops is the starting point for the first stage of the Architecture Trail – the “Fires” bus stop, designed by Japanese architect Sou Fujimoto. For the next four hours, we also follow the route of the first stage of the Architecture Trail. This leads through the centre of Krumbach, where the community has set a local development impulse with the newly designed rectory, on to the Salgenreute chapel, which is well worth seeing. To the south of the chapel is an extensive moorland that can be overlooked from a covered platform. The hiking trail then leads through an idyllic forest ravine to Langenegg and from there with a short, crisp ascent over the panoramic Schweizberg to Lingenau.

Key data of the hike Krumbach – Langenegg – Lingenau
Distance: 14 kilometres, ascent: 340 metres in altitude, descent: 410 metres
in altitude Click here for the hiking map at Outdooractive

Dealing with the Bregenzerwald

The daily stages of the Architecture Trail vary between three and 4.5 hours of walking time. There is enough time to pay a little more attention to one or the other structure on the way or to go on a “walk” after the hikes. In 12 villages, specially awarded village tours are dedicated to the way the people in the Bregenzerwald deal with building culture and prepared in small, handy themed cards. If you book the Architecture Trail as a package, you will receive the documents in printed form. Alternatively, you can find all 12 tours described here in digital form.

If you follow the “walkthrough” through Lingenau, then an extra tip should be mentioned at this point: the stopover at the café and unpackaged shop “Badhus” right next to the village church. A nicely designed café where you can enjoy simple lunch menus as well as delicious cakes!

A delicious stopover at the Wälderhof

One of the buildings that the Lingenau handle highlights is the Wälderhof. Here we check in for the first night. Quietly located on the outskirts of Lingenau, this inn offers a beautiful view of the hills so typical of the Bregenzerwald. Our three days of hiking are characterized by mixed weather – but to be honest, I think that it is precisely this mystical foggy atmosphere that suits the Bregenzerwald perfectly.

However, we will remember not only the panorama, but also the excellent food of the Wälderhof. Hostess Barbara Wild attaches great importance to seasonal, natural cuisine, which is served to guests in the form of beautifully composed plates. And yes: The fact that we don’t provide any photo evidence here is solely due to the fact that we were simply too hungry after this day of hiking.

Through the Subersach Gorge to the listed Schwarzenberg

The next morning we start the second stage of the architecture trail directly at the Wälderhof. We first follow the main road to the baroque chapel of St. Anna. Here the hiking trail branches off in the direction of the Subersach Gorge. Once you have crossed the rickety wire bridge over the rushing Subersach, you will soon see the village centre of Egg. Until the beginning of the 19th century, the largest village in the Bregenzerwald in terms of area and population was also home to the High Court for the Rear Bregenzerwald.

We leave this dark chapter behind us and follow the hiking trail uphill through a beautiful beech forest. Shortly before the stage destination Schwarzenberg, it is worth taking a look at the pretty Theresien Chapel. And in Schwarzenberg, some sights await you with the Angelika Kauffmann Museum, the historic (listed building) village square with church, old dance hall and the Hotel Hirschen.

Unfortunately, the Hotel Hirschen was still closed during our visit in mid-May due to the off-season. The boutique hotel has been on my bucket list for a long time and is also a partner hotel of the Architekturweg – if you book the package, you can look forward to a night in this beautiful, historic building.

Key data of the hike Lingenau – Egg – Schwarzenberg
Distance: 11.2 kilometres, ascent: 475 metres in altitude, descent: 465 metres
in altitude Click here for the hiking map at Outdooractive

The Werkraum House

For us, this day in Schwarzenberg is not yet “over”. We now have a good half day left, which we use for a detour to the Werkraum Haus in Andelsbuch. Since 2013, the Werkraum Haus, designed by Swiss architect Peter Zumthor, has seen itself as a “showcase” for innovative Bregenzerwald craft businesses.

Part of the hall-like building is used for exhibitions. The current exhibition is dedicated to the Andelsbuch architect Alfons Fritz, who died almost 100 years ago. And if, like us, you plan a stopover at the Werkraum Haus around noon, you can also get a fine lunch menu here!

Over the Schnepfegg to Mellau

We skip the third stage of the architecture trail from Schwarzenberg via Andelsbuch to Bezau and explore the fourth stage from Bezau via the Schnepfegg to Mellau on our third day. The tour starts in the centre of Bezau (where, by the way, the Hotel Gams and the Hotel Post are two wellness hotels that are very popular with Swiss women) and leads from there along the idyllic Mühlebach to the Reuthe church – one of the oldest churches in the region with impressive Gothic frescoes.

The hiking trail now continues across a spacious plain to Bizau. We can already “admire” the altitude meters that lie ahead of us on this stage from afar. But first we admire the traditionally built wooden fences. The ascent to Schnepfegg is crisp but short. Hold out for a good thirty minutes and you’ll reach the Wendelin Chapel. With a view of the striking Kanisfluh, we hike from here down into the valley to Mellau.

For those who still have some energy left when they arrive at their destination, I recommend adding a second “handling” to the tour. In Mellau you can expect some exciting buildings. Among them is the “Temple 74“, with which a new, attractive ensemble was created in the village centre in the traditional architectural style and graininess.

Key data of the hike Bezau – Bizau – Mellau
Distance: 12.5 kilometres, ascent: 335 metres in altitude, descent: 300 metres
in altitude Click here for the hiking map at Outdooractive

The super breakfast at the Bären Mellau

We set up our second base camp at the Hotel Bären Mellau. From Mellau you can quickly reach Bezau by bus – but during the summer season you can also quickly get from here (thanks to the cable car) to the more alpine hiking area, known in winter as the Damüls-Mellau ski area. The rooms at the Hotel Bären are very pretty and modern. The real highlight of the Bären, however, is its breakfast buffet.

We’ve seen a lot in this regard – but you definitely won’t find such a large selection of freshly prepared salads, spreads and various desserts in every random place. Accordingly, it is not surprising that many Vorarlberg residents also arrange to meet for brunch at the Bären at the weekend and it can sometimes get a little crowded.

Practical tips for your trip to the Bregenzerwald

• The journey by train from Zurich to Krumbach (or generally to the Bregenzerwald) leads via Bregenz. With the fastest and most direct connections, you can reach Krumbach in just under three hours with a single change (from train to bus in Bregenz).
• The Bregenzerwald is accessible by the Bregenzerwald country bus. Buses run regularly (usually every hour on weekends, half-hourly on weekdays). The online timetable from vmobil.at helps you plan your bus trips.
• Bregenzerwald & Großes Walsertal Guest Card: For all those who stay three or more nights in the 28 partner municipalities, the Bregenzerwald & Großes Walsertal Guest Card is included in the accommodation price. It is valid for free travel on the mountain railways and buses as well as an admission ticket for outdoor swimming pools.
• The hike along the Architecture Trail is recommended from the beginning of June to mid-October. Individual stages can also be done as early as May, although not many hotels and restaurants are open then due to the off-season.
• The Architecture Trail can be booked as a package. The cost is 789 euros per person in a double room. An overview of all inclusive services can be found here: Bregenzerwald Architecture Trail
• At the Wälderhof Lingenau, an overnight stay with breakfast costs 70 euros per person. At the Bären Mellau, the room prices vary depending on the season and room type and start at 63 euros per night including “super breakfast”.