Carona – love at second sight

The beginning was resinous. Curve after curve, the post bus winds its way along the ridge of the Ceresio peninsula. In between, we catch postcard views of Lake Lugano.

1,000 corners later

After what felt like an eternity, which in reality lasted less than half an hour, the narrow archway under the church tower of San Giorgio, the entrance gate of Carona, appears in front of us. The passage is precision work. We get off at the terminus in the middle of the picturesque village, nestled between San Salvatore and Monte Arbostora.

“Where to now?” We are in a village of 800 souls and actually manage not to find our hotel right away. After an unsuccessful first attempt, we end up back at the bus stop, slightly annoyed. After a long day, which we started at 7 o’clock in the morning in Rorschach and traveled from there via Chur, Bellinzona and Lugano, we don’t feel like looking for a long hotel. On the second attempt, we type both hotel name and address into Google Maps. Et Voilà it works.

You won’t find the walnut tree in Piazza Noseed today. Villa Carona, on the other hand, has stood stately on the outskirts of the village of Carona for over 200 years, flanked by historic buildings of famous artist families. The patrician house was built at the end of the 18th century by a wealthy Italian entrepreneurial family and served as a summer retreat. The oppressive heat gives way to a gentle breeze high above Lake Lugano.

In the middle of paradise

Almost ten years ago, the building was taken over by Cornelia and Jörg Deubner-Marty and transformed into a gem. For several years now, Villa Carona has been one of the Romantik and Swiss Historic Hotels. We are warmly welcomed and escorted to our room with garden and mountain view. This is what happened to me. Our room exudes such a warm charm that all thoughts of wandering through Carona are blown away. Over the past few years, the Deubner-Marty family has individually decorated each room with antiques, colourful fabrics and a keen eye for detail. The result convinces me completely. Instead of lounging on one of the deck chairs in the dreamy garden and enjoying the view of Monte Generoso, we dare to make a second approach with Carona before dinner.

Village of Artists

During the first round, I didn’t have time to take in the beauty of the place. This time it works. Carona is also known as an artists’ village. The village has been famous for thousands of years for its stonemasons, sculptors, plasterers and architects, who have left their art in homes and churches. The German writer Herman Hesse also appreciates the tranquillity that this place radiates. He got to know the village during a hike that he enjoyed from Montagnola.

Time seems to have stood still here, high above Lugano, ever since. Standing in Piazza Montaa, the most beautiful square in Carona, we feel transported back to the time when Meret Oppenheim lived in the so-called parrot house, Casa Constanza, and it was a meeting place for famous artists. The fountain in the middle of the piazza, designed by Meret Oppenheim, is a reminder of this time.

We conclude our walk through the idyll at the Chiesa di S. Marta, which stands on a slight hilltop and offers a beautiful view over the village.

Indulgence heaven with southern mischievousness

Back at Villa Carona, we let ourselves be enchanted by the evening light over the wooded hills of the peninsula before dinner. After a rather gloomy day, the sky has finally opened up and made way for the sun. “Tomorrow it will be sunny,” promises our host Jörg Deubner-Marty. I want to know from him where there is the most beautiful view over the peninsula, the San Salvatore and the Lago di Lugano. “Get up before sunrise tomorrow and walk to the Botanical Park, that’s where the best view is,” he promises me. With this thought in mind, we walk through the blooming garden to the restaurant La Sosta (aptly derived from “sostare” – to rest), which belongs to Villa Carona. The interior is tiny and exudes a romantic ambiance. We get a table right by the fireplace. Even more beautiful is of course the terrace, where a fragrant wisteria provides shade. The waitress has the mischief in her neck here. In a charming Mediterranean way, we are accompanied by the waiter through the evening. The menu is Mediterranean and seasonal and the dishes are a real feast for the eyes and palate.

Morning has gold in its mouth

At 5:00 a.m. sharp, we are woken up the next morning by the alarm clock. Who voluntarily gets up so early on Saturday morning? The view from the window confirms our decision to follow our host’s recommendation and walk to the Botanical Garden Parco San Grato. The park is located just above Carona and can be easily reached on foot in 20 minutes. It is known for its large collection of rhododendrons, which are in full bloom from the end of April to the end of May. Once at the top, we notice that not everyone has the same luck from the clear morning. Lake Lugano is hidden under a thick blanket of fog. Not a big deal. We sit down on a bench and enjoy an unparalleled morning spectacle. Fabulous. The essence of happiness.

Full of impressions, we return to the hotel around 8 o’clock. There everything is already ready for a rich breakfast. We load our plates with regional delicacies and rolls and sit down in the tropical garden. Oh, Villa Carona is, so to speak, the perfect version of the all-round feel-good package. An oasis of peace, far away from the hustle and bustle of everyday life. I’m in love with this place.

Information and tips about Carona

• Villa Carona is open all year round
• Double room from 180 CHF/night
• Carona offers an ideal starting point for hikes
• More information about Carona can be found on Carona Tourism

Note: My journey through time was supported by Switzerland Tourism and Swiss Historic Hotels. Do you also want to experience the charm of times gone by? Nothing could be easier: here you can find more inspiration. As always, my readers can be sure that I always represent my views and enthusiasm.