Champéry: out and about in the BikePark Portes du Soleil

It feels like coming home when we get off the train in Champéry. There are only a few places where I would call myself a regular – Champéry can count itself among them. During our studies, we spent a few days on the ski slopes with friends between Christmas and New Year. As well as I know the kilometres of slopes in the cross-border ski resort of Portes du Soleil, it is not familiar to me during the summer months. Then the region turns into a paradise for mountain bikers and downhillers. Whether mountain bike beginners will also get a taste for it, we want to find out this weekend.

Welcome Back in Champéry

In the restaurant Vieux Chalet we spent some delicious evenings. Since our last ski holiday in Champéry, the hosts Sophie and Philippe Zurkirchen have not only put a lot of work into the restaurant, but also into the further development of the associated Art.Boutique Hotel Beau-Séjour, which looks back on almost 100 years of history. In 2013, their commitment was honoured with the “Prix Bienvenue” in the category of small holiday hotels. It is noticeable that friendliness and guest well-being are very important to the host couple. Be it the warm welcome, the attentive service or the helpful information at the reception. For the 2015/2016 winter season, new double rooms and two junior suites have been added directly above the restaurant in the “Vieux Chalet”. The style: Alpine chic mixed with original bells and whistles. We are allowed to spend the night in one of the junior suites, which delights us with its spacious floor plan and the view of Dents du Midi and Dents Blanches.

And as tradition would have it, we start our weekend with a hearty dinner at the Vieux Chalet. The speciality of the house: high-quality meat from the wood fire. The grill master is Philippe Zurkirchen himself. If I had had to hand out points that evening, the Vieux Chalet would have received an extra point in the “Presentation” category. We photographed a lot of menus this fall. The beautifully presented game plate at the Vieux Chalet is one of the front-runners.

Not for the faint-hearted – biking at the Portes du Soleil Bike Park

Saturday we start with a hearty breakfast. The energy stores have to be filled. We can expect a sporting program. I had planned to go on a bike tour this summer. And what region would be better suited than the bike paradise of the first hour, Portes du Soleil. Our excursion into the bike world would have been scheduled for the beginning of September, but we caught a totally rainy weekend and postponed the stay until the end of the season.

This time, luck with the weather is on our side. Peter makes us happy with bright sunshine. Due to the low temperatures, however, our bike tour is not scheduled until the afternoon and so we take the cable car to the Croix de Culet in the morning in our usual hiking gear. «Situation check». Up here, it is immediately clear that the hikers come second. Because of all the bike signs, we only find the hiking trail sign on the second attempt. But for me, it’s absolutely okay for a mountain destination that clearly positions itself in this regard. A narrow ridge path leads from the summit towards “Sur Cou” down to Champéry in just over two hours. The hiking trail is not for the faint-hearted. Sections are sloping and steep. I swallowed once or twice, but the view is so bombastic that I decided to “bite through”. About halfway there is a nicely placed picnic table with a direct view of the Dents du Midi.

Chestnuts for refreshment

The hiking trail leads us over the end of the valley directly into the centre of Champéry with the most beautiful view. The fact that the weather in September threw a spanner in the works was a hint with the fence post. If we had travelled to Valais back then, we would have missed the “Brisolée Géante”. In earlier times, chestnuts were widely used as a staple food in Valais. Even though the chestnuts have lost their importance, the tradition is still alive and celebrated in autumn in individual villages. This is also the case in Champéry. The event takes place on this Saturday afternoon and attracts the whole village to the church square, where it smells wonderfully of roasted chestnuts. In addition, alpine cheese, dried meat and rye bread are served and fresh snacks are served. For all those for whom opening chestnuts is too time-consuming (I had pitch-black hands afterwards), there is raclette as an alternative (of course in true Valais style, smeared directly from the cheese without pans or other Üsserschwiizer bad habits).

We dare – mountain biking in Valais

Hands cleaned of soot, it’s time to get down to business. I have a mixed relationship with biking. And above all, insane respect for steep stretches downhill. Since I don’t know what Thierry from Ride Switzerland has in store for us, I feel queasy. The Portes du Soleil region offers a wide range of enduro trails and downhill routes from beginners to total freaks.

In order for us to start pedaling, we need the appropriate equipment. Bike (a Scott MTB fully), helmet and gloves are available in the bike shop directly under the cable car station. Afterwards we will take the cable car up to the Croix de Culet. From there we first follow Route 105 down to Les Crosets. Although it’s only downhill, my muscles complain after a few minutes. The path is partly narrow and filled with large stones. Full concentration is required. In Les Crosets we follow the road uphill towards Route 102. Here I can catch my breath and am very happy to have made it without falling. Although that’s purely a matter of the mind, the route is not difficult.

The fun begins when we get past the climb and follow the Route du Lait (101) towards Ripaille. The relatively wide gravel path is easy to drive and the view is gigantic. Thierry notices that we are slowly getting a taste for it and spontaneously suggests a detour to Barme. The idyllic plateau is one of his favourite places, he says. Only the idyll has to be earned. And so we fight our way up another 300 meters in altitude. However, what excites me even more than the plateau of Barme is the fact that I am already more saddled on the steep gravel path from Barme downhill to Champéry than on the first section. I suppress a yelp and follow Thierry nimbly around the corners.

After three hours and 22 kilometers we are back in Champéry. Thighs and buttocks make it clear that they don’t know enough about this type of movement. And the stomach makes it clear that it has earned something after this sporty day. The hunger is satisfied in the Alta 1874 (the pizza was already good here when the restaurant still had an 80s look – the visual refresh is successful and the pizza is still delicious) and plans are made for the next bike trips.

No sun – no problem

The next morning, with every step, the muscles make themselves heard. Weekend after weekend, you hike tens of kilometres without any problems, get on your bike once and immediately feel old. To loosen things up, we actually wanted to hike leisurely for two hours towards Val d’Illiez via Galerie Défago and then relax in the warm thermal bath water of the “Thermes Parc”. The drizzle dampened our motivation to hike. We decide to skip this part and get on the train. As expected, the thermal bath is packed with families on this Sunday morning. It’s still okay for a round on the bubble lounger. Last but not least, we fortify ourselves at Chez Joe before heading home. The Burgerschuppen is the only restaurant in the village I didn’t know from our previous visits and it’s awesome! Delicious burgers, Belbing-style fries with mayonnaise and a large selection of beers. What more could you want on a rainy Sunday afternoon?

Practical tips for an outdoor weekend in Champéry

• Bed and breakfast is available at the Art.Boutique Hotel Beau-Séjour during the summer season from CHF 155 in a double room.
• Champéry has a good restaurant scene. In addition to the Vieux Chalet and the Alta, we also like the Café du Centre restaurant and Le Nord (which also has a new gourmet concept). In general, it is advisable to make a reservation.
• The Portes du Soleil cross-border BikePark offers a wide range of routes for beginners to professionals. In total, there are 650 kilometres of marked mountain bike trails and 21 lifts that ensure connections.
• If you don’t have your own mountain bike, you can rent in the bike shop at the cable car station. The half-day rental for a freeride/enduro bike is currently 65 CHF.
• For adrenaline junkies, I can recommend the Tière via ferrata. I haven’t found enough courage this time, but I really want to do it.
• Hikers will find varied route options in the plateau of Barme and around the Dents du Midi (where a hiking trail with a length of 42.5 km runs all around).

Champéry Tourisme invited us to this stay. Thank you very much for this. As always, all impressions/opinions are ours.