Dolcefarniente and hiking in Domodossola

At the end of March, beginning of April, when spring doesn’t really want to happen yet, but there is an urgent need for a really pleasantly warm spring day, then the near south beckons. Practically every spring, my colleagues and I turned blue – preferably on the afternoon when mathematics was on the timetable – and jetted off to the south. Don’t worry, we’ve still become decent people. After all, there is a bit of a revolutionary in each of us and we lived it out with a gelati trip to Italy. It takes less than 1.5 hours by train from Thun to Domodossola, and even from Zurich you can reach the Ossola Valley in less than three hours. The perfect distance to beat the bad weather here.

On Saturdays, the legendary market of Domodossola attracts droves of German-speaking Swiss to the small town. The pretty historic centre of Domodossola is almost lost in front of all the stalls and people. If you take some time, you will find great leather goods and, above all, delicious products from the surrounding valleys among the numerous stalls with junk goods.

It’s worth extending the short trip a bit and ring in the Saturday evening with an Aperol Spritz in the slowly emptying Piazza del Mercato. What I also appreciate about our compact Switzerland is that you can travel to Italy and just a few kilometers from the Simplon you will find the typical Italian flair.

If you have enough time, I recommend taking a look at the “Sentieri del Gusto”. In collaboration with the Val Grande National Park, local restaurants and producers, a successful culinary project was launched ten years ago. The aim is to serve up local products at attractive prices. Coincidentally, during our visit last autumn, the event was taking place in Domodossola at the Ristorante Piemonte da Sciolla. The multi-course menu costs 35 euros per person including wine! A great opportunity to immerse yourself in the delights of Piedmont.

Way of the Cross to the Sacro Monte Calvario

Domodossola offers not only an idyllic old town centre with narrow streets and lonely piazzas, but also varied walking paths. The most famous is probably the Way of the Cross to the Sacro Monte Calvario. Monte Calvario is one of a total of nine Sacri Monti in Piedmont and Lombardy and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

From the centre, follow Via Matterella in a south-westerly direction to the outskirts of the city. After the first chapel, the path climbs steeply and leads through a sparse forest up to the Sacro Monte Calvario. A total of 15 chapels, with life-size statues and imposing paintings inside, line the wayside. From the park of the holy mountain there is a wonderful panoramic view over Domodossola and the surrounding mountain peaks. If you are not tired from the ascent, you can now follow the path in a southerly direction. The trail leads through the pretty hamlet of Trontana with a beautiful view over the Ossola Valley, past vines. Soon after, there are a few more meters of altitude to overcome. The destination of our walk is the Agriturismo La Tensa, which is enthroned high up on the sun-drenched hillside. The picturesquely situated hideaway is virtually the winner of the lottery. Order a plate of cheese and sausage and then indulge in simple idleness for an afternoon.