Gottlieben – delicacies on Lake Constance
We took advantage of the first warming rays of sunshine last weekend for a trip to Lake Constance. Just in time for the beginning of spring, we wanted to get our first taste of spring air and “acclimatise” for the upcoming trip to hotter climes. Where the first spring excursion of this season should take us had been clear for some time. Last autumn, I heard about the Gottlieber Hotel Krone for the first time as part of a panel discussion on the topic of “strong franc, strong ideas”. At a time when Swiss hotels are struggling, two entrepreneurs in Gottlieben set a counter-trend and opened a boutique hotel in the middle of the picturesque village center of Gottlieben. I found the presented concept interesting and the menu so delicious that I wanted to see it on site.
Spring hike with culinary stop in the Gottlieber Krone
So we set off in the most beautiful spring weather in the direction of Kreuzlingen. We decided on the train to get off in Konstanz and to expose ourselves to the mass of shopping tourists. The friend needed sunglasses in the bright sunlight. The idea of buying sunglasses on a Saturday in Konstanz was moderately intelligent. But after what felt like an eternity of standing around in the Fielmann and waiting for someone to unlock the secured sunglasses for us, we successfully completed the mission and were able to continue shaggy with newly purchased sunglasses.
After just under an hour’s walk along the shores of the Untersee, we reach Gottlieben. The stomach growls and the anticipation of the menu with many regional Thurgau products at the Hotel Krone is great. The choice is quickly made. We order three portions of crown tapas. One is tartare from Thurgau beef, pickled char and goat cheese with rosemary honey. So fine! For the main course, I choose the Kronenbeefburger, a classic of the house. The friend orders fish in beer batter. We are not disappointed and can well imagine how fantastic the atmosphere is here on warm summer days on the terrace directly on the shore of the Untersee. Make a big note of this pub on your bucket list and travel to Gottlieben on a beautiful summer’s day. It’s worth it. After this princely midday meal, the second stage of the hike from Gottlieben to Ermatingen awaits you for digestion.
Detour to a Swiss natural spectacle
At the end of the day, we continue our journey by train from Ermatingen to Schaffhausen. In between, there would be two worthwhile stops, Stein am Rhein and Diessenhofen. Both villages have beautifully preserved village centers with impressive timber-framed houses. But we are drawn directly to the mighty Rhine Falls, which I have only looked at from the train window on the way through. We start on the Schaffhausen side in Neuhausen and then walk over to the Zurich side to Laufen Castle. Admission to the viewing platform at the castle costs 5 CHF. At the end of the day, we – and numerous other tourists on site – have a mishap. There would be an S-Bahn stop right next to the viewing platform. The only thing we missed when checking the timetable was that there is a summer and winter timetable and that the connection shown is not a train connection, but a bus connection. So our stay is unintentionally extended by an hour.
Practical information and tips for hiking from Kreuzlingen to Ermatingen
The route can be found on the map below. The hike can be started either at Kreuzlingen or Konstanz train station and leads via Gottlieben in just under 9.5 kilometers to Ermatingen. There are no meters of altitude to be mastered, the path runs on the flat. The hiking time is about 2 hours without a break. From Ermatingen there is a train every half hour in the direction of Kreuzlingen and in the direction of Stein am Rhein / Schaffhausen.
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