Hallig Hooge – in step with the tides

Welcome to Hallig Hooge is written on the sign at the ferry pier. Yes, hello North Sea, nice to meet you. In front of us lies a flat grassland, small elevations with buildings are grateful points of reference for orientation, behind us the waves of the Wadden Sea break quietly on the summer dike of the Hallig.

The trip here was a bit of an adventure. We started in Hamburg Altona with the Nord-Ostsee-Bahn. In Hamburg Altona, people were crowded on the platform on Saturday morning. “There must be something to the North Sea, if they all want to go there…” I think to myself. After a good two hours, we change from train to bus in Husum and continue to Nordstrand. Here we see the North Sea for the first time. For the last part of the way, we switch to one of the Adler ships. Hallig Hooge can only be reached by boat and only if the tides allow it. Our Adler ship is jetting through the Wadden Sea at full speed and so we are on Halligboden four hours after departure from Hamburg Altona.

“Moin”, our hostess greets us and drives us across the Hallig to the Ockenswarft, where our cute holiday home – Harlies Hus – is waiting for us. A roof over your head and a bike, that’s all you need for the perfect holiday on Hallig Hooge. We get the latter right after we have deposited our luggage in the apartment.

The spirit of discovery is awakened. There is nothing stopping us from cycling all over the Hallig. 5.6^km2 is the area of Hallig Hooge. It is part of the Schleswig-Holstein Wadden Sea and Hallige Biosphere Reserve. Around 100 inhabitants live on the ten terps – artificially raised mounds of earth. Downtown is located on the Hanswarft, which is also teasingly called the supply hill by the locals. Grocery stores, restaurants, tourist information, Wadden Sea Conservation Station, museums – there’s a lot going on here. Other inhabitants of the Hallig are sheep and cows that enjoy the salty grass. We continue cycling by bike. Past the pretty Kirchwarft with the nickname Faith Hill, along the summer dike to the Westernwarft and then back in the direction of Ockenswarft. We make a last stop at the Ockelützwarft. This mound is also known as the Formation Hill. This is where the school is located, among other things. Almost everything is available on Hallig Hooge.

What is missing is the noise and the hustle and bustle. A holiday at Hallig Hooge means finding peace and quiet and watching nature. One day cycle clockwise around the Hallig, the next day the other way around. Watch flocks of birds on the Wadden Sea. Sitting in a beach chair and watching the sea disappear and come back at some point. The tides set the pace for life in Hallig and the North Sea breeze makes for a constantly changing natural spectacle.

After our tour around the Hallig and a delicious dinner in the oldest restaurant of the Hallig Hooge, the Friesenpesel, we fall asleep peacefully. Sea air and Pharisees (coffee with rum and cream – a typical North Frisian drink) make you tired.

Breakfast the next morning has to be worked hard by cycling against the wind (remember, you always ride against the wind). On the Hanswarft, a nicely laid breakfast table awaits us in the Seehund.

Afterwards we explore the cultural highlights. A detour to the Kirchwarft is recommended. The pulpit door, for example, was donated by a whaler in the 18th century. Equally pretty is the Königspesel on the Hanswarft. The private museum displays cultural-historical art and second-hand objects. Of course, a visit to the Hooger Storm Surge Cinema is also a must-see. Here we experience “Landhunter” on the big screen and I get a great desire to experience such an experience live…

In the afternoon, a keen eye is required. During an ornithological tour with the Wadden Sea Conservation Station, we learn about the colourful plumage that can be found around the Hallig. A group of oystercatchers (no, they don’t eat oysters) are having fun right in front of our eyes.

And already the second day is coming to an end. After enjoying North Frisian waffles with plum compote and tea with rum in the cozy atmosphere of the T-Stube, we are on the beach just in time for sunset. Oh Hallig Hooge, thank you for letting us experience such moments through the day despite many clouds.

If you are in the mood for a Hallig holiday (isn’t the landscape simply bombastic?!) you will find the necessary information here.

Note: The trip to the Halligen was supported by Nordsee Tourismus and the Halligen – thank you very much for this. As always, my readers can be sure that I always represent my views and enthusiasm here.