Hallig hopping – on the go in the North Sea

The fresh North Sea wind ruffles my hair, isolated raindrops stray to us and the seagulls screech in competition. We are on board the Hilligenlei, which takes us from Hallig Hooge to Hallig Langeneß. After two days of relaxed Hallig life on Hooge, we ventured out onto the Wadden Sea. There are ten Halligen in total, seven of which are inhabited. By means of Hallig-hopping, we want to experience what life in the middle of the mudflats feels like. First of all, we have to leave Hooge and its pretty terps (which surprise with all kinds of details) behind us. Saying goodbye is not easy.

For the crossing from Hooge to Langeneß we use the classic North Sea means of transport – the ferry. In terms of distance, the first stage would actually be a piece of cake. The mounds of Langeneß are clearly visible from Hooge. But since we have chosen the low water for the crossing, sandbanks appear in front of us in the middle of the Wadden Sea. The direct route to Langeneß is therefore impassable for the ferry and we have to take a small detour. Fortunately, so to speak, because our evasive manoeuvre takes us directly past a cuddly group of seals, who are sunbathing on the sandbanks (although there is no real talk of “sunbathing” on this cloudy carry). Definitely one of my North Sea highlights.

A few minutes later we reach Langeneß, where we change to the MS Eilun. The excursion boat can be used to undertake various expeditions on the North Frisian Wadden Sea. Captain Tadsen and his sailor have everything under control – in addition to steering the ship, they are also on duty as coffee-and-cake ladies and tour guides.

The weather is actually not very inviting for a fun boat trip on the Wadden Sea, but you should get the best out of every situation. So we look for a dry place below deck and order a Pharisee. Rum keeps you warm. Opposite us sits an elderly couple who go to the North Sea every year and are still fascinated by the unique landscape. “This time of year is ideal for watching migratory birds,” the gentleman informs me. For them, too, it is their first trip to the smaller Halligen.

Through the windows we watch as Langeneß passes us by. Due to the persistent rain clouds, the panorama is unfortunately limited.

The first thing we do is to dock in Val Gardena. The smallest municipality in Germany. On Val Gardena there is the Knuttswarft with residential buildings, the Kirchwarft with a pretty church, just under 20 inhabitants, some cows and sheep and faded Halligf lilac. Perfect idyll in the middle of the Wadden Sea. The only thing missing is the sunshine.

Back on the ship, we warm up a bit below deck. We set course for Oland. Oland is connected to both the mainland and Langeneß by a wagon dam. This gives the inhabitants independence in the sense that they are not so dependent on the tides and the ferry service. Oland is said to have the most beautiful mound. We are excited.

Despite the rain and wind, we are delighted, starting with the carts. In the past, rail vehicles were propelled by wind and sails. Unfortunately, those days are over.

The terp behind the Loren station does not disappoint us. The Hallig houses with their beautiful thatched roofs stand compactly around the Fething, where rainwater used to be collected. For a long time, rainwater was the only source of fresh water on the Halligen. Even today, the raindrops patter happily into the Vething. The attentive eye is offered many beautiful details that beautifully show how much the sea and man live in harmony here. At least until the naked Hans (that’s what they call the raging wind during storm surges) shows once again who has the upper hand.

Despite the gloomy weather, the charm of Oland is clearly noticeable. When the sun is shining, it is probably fantastically beautiful here. After an hour’s stay on Oland, Captain Tadsen sets course for Langeneß again. The entertaining excursion is over much too quickly. Langeneß is still waiting for us. More on this will follow in the third Hallig report.

Note: The trip to the Halligen was supported by Nordsee Tourismus and the Halligen – thank you very much for this. As always, my readers can be sure that I always represent my views and enthusiasm here.