Jardin Japonais Nendaz: beautiful autumn hike in Valais

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Stone, moss, water and tree – four elements that should not be missing in Japanese garden design when building a new garden. On our 30-day trip to Japan in spring 2018, we strolled through numerous fascinating Japanese gardens, including two of Japan’s three famous gardens, the “Kenroku-en” in Kanazawa and the Koraku-en in Okayama.

While Japanese gardens are usually planned down to the last detail, in the Valais mountains, high above Nendaz, there is a plateau in which all these elements can be found in their natural environment – and which, with its winding paths, also provides numerous new perspectives. The Jardin Japonais makes Japan fans forget their wanderlust for the land of the rising sun for a brief moment. I also let myself be enchanted by this lovely landscape and show in this post how you combine the trip to the Jardin Japonais with a varied hike.

Von Siviez via Tortin zum Japanese Garden

The starting point for the hike to the Jardin Japonais is in Siviez, not far from the Lower Valais resort of Nendaz. While Siviez is one of the access points to the “4 Vallées” ski area in winter and is therefore very well frequented, especially on winter weekends, the cluster of apartment buildings and ski facilities seems a bit lost on a beautiful summer’s day. The detour to Siviez is also worthwhile during the summer season. This is the starting point for various bisse hikes (around the sun-drenched town of Nendaz, six bisses ensure that the fresh glacier water reaches the cultivated fields in a targeted manner) as well as various high mountain tours that lead ambitious hikers up to the “Grand Désert” at almost 3,000 metres above sea level. We don’t go quite that high, but we also start the hike in the direction of the “three-thousand-metre peak”.

We follow the signposted path towards Tortin/Lac de Cleuson. This leads over alpine meadows and along gravel paths steadily but pleasantly uphill. The imposing dam wall of the Lac de Cleuson serves as an orientation aid – otherwise the landscape up here is very varied and with a view of the many larches, I regret that we did not wait another month with this hike. Everything already shimmers in a slight yellow tinge – but at the end of September/beginning of October, the end of the valley here is guaranteed to glow golden.

At the point where the trail towards Lac de Cleuson disappears into the forest, we stay on the wide gravel path and follow it to Tortin. This section is not particularly attractive in terms of path, but with luck you can observe marmots.

At the top station of the Siviez-Tortin cable car (which can be used to shorten the hiking time during the summer season), the Jardin Japonais is finally signposted. Previously, we were unsure whether we were really following the right path, although the hike is listed on the official maps of Nendaz Tourism. The confirmation that we are approaching the target is a welcome motivation injection in view of the 160 meters of altitude that still follow. At Tortin, the path leads from the plain to the “roof” of a 9000-year-old glacial moraine.

A Japanese garden in the middle of the Swiss mountains

On the plateau of this glacial moraine hides the Jardin Japonais. It is heralded by the gentle lapping of a watercourse that winds its way down the valley through the plain. And once you have taken the last rank in front of this natural – designed – landscape, you will immediately recognize the Jardin Japonais.

While the main hiking trail climbs on the scree cones between the glacial moraines towards the Col de Chassoure and Dents Rousses, a narrow path branches off into the Jardin Japonais. This leads you through this fascinating landscape chamber, which with its small trees, moss-covered stones and the small stream gently winding through the landscape evokes memories of the lovingly designed Japanese gardens. In any case, it is worth taking time to explore the “garden”.

With the exception of the narrow path, there are no “artificial” elements and no staging by means of information boards. Out of consideration for this landscape, which has been shaped over the last 9,000 years, the existing paths are therefore adhered to and no rubbish is left behind after a visit.

Via Bisse Vieux back to Haute-Nendaz

Unfortunately, there is currently no possibility to do the hike to the Jardin Japonais from Siviez as a circular hike. If you want to go on a more challenging tour, you can then continue climbing towards Dents Rousses and then hike via Les Tsans Ferret to Nendaz (be sure to pay attention to the weather and snow conditions!). For everyone else, it’s back to Siviez the same way afterwards – and so it is for us. On the way back, we enjoy the great panoramic view of the peaks of the opposite side of the Rhône Valley.

Back in Siviez, we take advantage of the wonderful late summer weather and let the signposts tempt us to take an additional loop along the Bisse Vieux to the centre of Haute-Nendaz. The nice thing about bisse hikes is that they contain hardly any inclines and can be carried out without much effort.

Alpine pastures with far-reaching views, glacial moraines that give you a Japanese feeling, leisurely bisse paths – and at the end of the day, the deep and far-reaching view over the Rhone Valley to the peaks of the Upper Valais shining in the sunset. I would think this hike is not stingy with highlights.

Even more Japan feeling in Switzerland

The Jardin Japonais near Nendaz is by no means the only place where a piece of Japan can be experienced in Switzerland. In my 99 ideas for a great day trip, for example, Monte Verità is represented with the Casa del Tè, where traditional matcha tea ceremonies are performed. You can find more excursion ideas and tips on exciting Swiss places related to Japan – be it culinary, architectural or by teaching traditional crafts and garden art – on the website “Japan in Switzerland” and on social media under the hashtag #JAPANinSWITZERLAND.

Practical tips for your hike to the Jardin Japonais

The route of our hike from Siviez to the Jardin Japonais and then back to Siviez and via Bisse Vieux to Haute-Nendaz can be found on the map below. The starting point of the hike can be reached from the end of June to the beginning of October by post bus from Haute-Nendaz as well as by car (in Siviez there is a large parking lot directly at the starting point of the hike). Important: the Postbus connection is only offered up to and including the first weekend in October! If you want to do the hike later and don’t have a private car, I recommend reserving a Mobility in Sion and driving it to Siviez.

The Jardin Japonais is (contrary to some other online descriptions) only signposted from Tortin. So you first follow the signpost to Tortin. The ascent from Siviez to the plateau with the glacial moraine, where the Jardin Japonais is located, takes about 1.5 to 2 hours (depending on your walking pace). The distance is 5.6 kilometres with around 500 metres of elevation gain. The way back is the same way. If you only aim for the Jardin Japonais, you have to plan a good three hours for the hike. The hiking time can be shortened with the Siviez-Tortin cable car. This runs continuously during the high season (from the beginning of July to the end of the summer holidays). In the low season (until 21 September) it is only open on weekends.

For all those who travel by public transport and feel like a nice bisse hike afterwards, I recommend continuing via Bisse Vieux to Haute-Nendaz.

Eckdaten der Tour Siviez – Japanese Garden – Bisse Vieux – Haute-Nendaz

Starting point	Siviez post bus stop (Super-Nendaz)
Length	18 kilometers
Elevation gain	↗ 605 m 970 m ↘
Duration	5:00 p.m.
Destination	Postautohaltestelle Haute-Nendaz gondola lift