Hiking on the Neckertaler Höhenweg to the Rössli Mogelsberg

Mogelsberg is neither on a popular pass road nor on a popular long-distance hiking route and has only had a magnet for excursions with a supra-regional appeal since the opening of Switzerland’s first treetop walk in 2018. Inevitably, the question arises, how do you successfully run a hospitality business “off the beaten track” for over 40 years? Or is it precisely this seclusion that is the real strength of the Rössli? Probably yes, because no destination seemed better suited to me for my first short trip after the two-month Corona travel break than the tranquil village in the Necker Valley.

«Neckertal?» Don’t worry if you can’t locate this municipality (and valley landscape) subito on the Swiss national map. That’s how it was for most of the people I told about my weekend plans. And that’s why it’s not surprising that the success story of Gasthaus Rössli is based on the classic word-of-mouth propaganda of enthusiastic guests. After all, hardly anyone gets lost here “by chance”. That’s exactly why I decided to take a short break in the Necker Valley. And I would do it again! Because the Rössli – and the Neckertal – with its natural charm has also angled me around my finger.

An inn with charm

Since the end of the 18th century, the Rössli has been one of the most prominent buildings in the centre of Mogelsberg. The small village is part of the political municipality of Neckertal, which is often overlooked as it is sandwiched between Toggenburg and Appenzellerland. The hilly landscape, through which the wild Necker meanders, attracts visitors with beautiful circular hikes, exciting themed trails and interesting cultural and historical sites. But we’ll get to that later.

First of all, we check in at the Rössli. Owner Sabine Bertin has been running the inn for over 40 years – as a Zurich resident and representative of the ’68 movement. Even if at first she couldn’t imagine being so far away from “civilization” (which at that time stopped before Winterthur, as she tells us with a wink at dinner), the chemistry between the Rössli and her seemed to be right from the start. And while Sabine Bertins was far ahead of her time at the end of the 1970s with her recipe for success consisting of consistently seasonal, regional and organic cuisine paired with cultural events and a homely atmosphere, she is now very much in vogue.

Deliciously quaint

A highlight at the Rössli is the monthly changing gourmet menu, which is dedicated to the current zodiac sign. This can be ordered in 3, 4 or 5 courses and offers the perfect setting for an enjoyable evening. Alternatively, the seasonal à la carte options, which can be found on an A4 page (which is a sign of quality for me), are also convincing. Now in spring, delicacies such as Eastern Swiss asparagus, new potatoes and Rhine Valley strawberries can be found on it.

At the Rössli, not only does each zodiac sign have a menu, but also a room. As is customary in historic walls, each room has a slightly different floor plan and furnishings to match. In all of them, however, there are rustic wooden beams and creaking floorboards. Depending on the workload and the festive mood of the Rössli guests, they can certainly cause a disturbance of the peace at night. The combination of exercise (because we hiked there), fresh air and the delicious dinner, let me slumber peacefully and deeply in no time, until the next morning I am tickled awake by the first rays of sunshine of the day under the short red curtain.

Hike from Mogelsberg to Wilkethöchi

After breakfast, we shoulder our backpacks and walk past the Rössli uphill towards Wilkethöchi. The Rössli in Mogelsberg is not only a worthwhile destination for a fine dinner, but also a great starting point for a hiking or biking tour through the Necker Valley. In addition to easy circular hikes and signposted themed trails, the Neckertal High Trail offers a comprehensive insight into the multifaceted landscape of the Necker Valley with a total of three stages. The high-altitude trail leads from Mogelsberg first in the direction of Steinwäldli, where the treetop walk is located.

From the treetop walk, we can only see one or two spectacular viewing platforms from the hiking trail – certainly a great destination with children (and can be combined with a short hike from Mogelsberg to Brunnardern – or in the opposite direction).

Between the treetop walk and the hamlet of Moos, the path runs varied, sometimes over lush meadows, then again through shady wooded areas, which present themselves in a lush green after the previous rainy days. Passing a blooming carpet of wild garlic, we really start to puff for the first time in front of the Gerensattel. Fortunately, we also complete the remaining steep section to the highest point of this tour – the Wilkethöchi at an impressive 1,177 metres above sea level – protected in the forest by the already strong May sun.

Only at the top of the vantage point does the canopy of leaves open up and reveal a panoramic view over the green hills to the Alpstein and the still snow-covered Churfirsten.

Over hill and dale along the Neckertaler Höhenweg

After a short rest, we continue our hike. In terms of altitude, we have mastered the roughest, but in terms of distance there is still a decent distance ahead of us. Anyone who, like us, follows the Neckertaler Höhenweg, should not be misled by the signpost on the Wilkethöchi, which advertises Schönengrund as “2.5 hours”. This refers to the direct route and not the loop-rich high-altitude trail. This leads us first down to the former embroidery village of Dicken and from there back up the hills to the Bergli mountain restaurant.

On the Landscheidi, the Neckertaler Höhenweg intersects with the Way of St. James. Here there is the option to follow the ridge in an easterly direction to Waldstatt and benefit from a slightly better public transport connection (half-hourly instead of hourly service in Schönengrund).

With a glance at the clock and the knowledge that the remaining 1.5 hours of hiking time are optimally coordinated with the Postbus timetable, we stay on the high trail. This turns west and leads us across open fields, past scattered agricultural settlements via Chäseren back into the valley. On the asphalt section between Oberstofel and Stofel, the almost 18 kilometres are slowly making themselves felt in my feet – but when I look back at the Wilkethöchi, which now seems to be far away, I also know that I have definitely earned the fine dinner at the Rössli.

Practical tips for your trip to the Necker Valley

The Neckertaler Höhenweg leads from Mogelsberg to Hemberg in three stages with a total of 56 kilometres.

The route of our tour along the first stages from Mogelsberg to Schönengrund can be found on the map below. The distance of the hiking route is 18 kilometers. From Mogelsberg to Wilkethöchi, 560 metres of altitude have to be overcome uphill. A further 200 metres of altitude difference are required on the ascent from Dicken to Bergli. The tour is signposted with a walking time of around six hours. It took us just under five hours without any big breaks. You can reach the starting point of the hike by taking the S-Bahn from Gossau or Uznach every half hour (note – the S-Bahn only stops at Mogelsberg station “on request”). At the destination Schönengrund, there is an hourly post bus connection via Brunnadern back to Gossau/Uznach (also a station with a “stop on demand”).

Due to the altitude between 750 and 1,200 metres above sea level, this stage of the Neckertal High Trail is well suited for a spring or autumn hike.

The accommodation prices at the Rössli vary depending on the size of the room and range between 170 and 190 CHF for an overnight stay in a double room with private bathroom. The gourmet menu costs 77 CHF for 3 courses – 5 courses cost 95 CHF (there is also the possibility to order half portions for a slightly reduced amount).

A trip to the Rössli can also be combined with an easy hike through the Wissbach Gorge near Flawil or with a visit to the treetop walk. The treetop walk is usually open all year round. It is best to consult the official website before the planned visit.