Hotel Saratz – where old meets new in Pontresina

It seems as if you have landed directly in a postcard motif. Our gaze wanders from Pontresina train station to the village centre opposite, which nestles smoothly against the southern valley flank of the Bernina massif. Surrounded by Swiss stone pine forests and an organically grown mix of magnificent Belle Epoque hotel buildings and old Engadine houses, the Engadine mountain village has a charming appearance. Pontresina is strategically located on the Bernina Line. The pass was already well frequented by merchants and travelers in the Middle Ages. The history of the historic Hotel Saratz fits perfectly into this historic environment.

Gian Saratz returned to his homeland in the 19th century after years of wandering as a confectioner and moved into a farmhouse opposite the village church. The up-and-coming tourism in the Engadine awakened his flair for the hospitality industry and encouraged him to convert the hay barn into a guesthouse. The so-called Chesa Veglia – the parent company – still exists today. However, since its founding in the second half of the 19th century, the Hotel Saratz has steadily invested in the expansion and renovation of the complex. As part of extensive renovation work between 1995 and 2010 in cooperation with the architects Hans-Jürg Ruch and Pia Schmied, the historic areas were skilfully overhauled and completed with new buildings. The result is an interesting contrast between tradition and modernity.

After a welcome drink in the reception area of the Chesa Nuova, the Belle Epoque building, we take a look at our comfort room, which is located in the new Ela Tuff building. The winding corridors between the various buildings seem confusing at first glance. Will we ever again find the exit in the most direct way?

The comfort room convinces with a spacious floor plan and enough storage space. Especially ideal for winter holidays with a lot of material. For families with children, up to two extra beds can be arranged in the comfort rooms. It is worth mentioning the minibar included in the price, which convinces with a selection of Swiss drinks (Sinalco, Flauder, Rivella, Elmer Citro…). The view over the hotel park to Val Roseg is also magnificent.

The Pitschna Scena is always worth a visit, I read this autumn from the hiking hotelier. So, with a growling stomach, we went in search of the legendary restaurant, which is located in the main house of the Saratz. On the short tour of the hotel, it was mentioned which corridor leads directly over to the main building, but I can only vaguely remember it. Even the chef de service of the Art Nouveau restaurant doesn’t find the connection right away, but charmingly opens the door to “his” secret passage from Chesa Nuova to Chesa Veglia with a key. Suddenly we are practically in the middle of the well-filled Pitsche Scena. Luckily, we reserved a spot. In the cosy parlour we have a good time with the ordered Pitschna Burger with organic Angus beef (24 CHF) and a portion of alpine macaroni (18 CHF). By the way, we found the connecting corridor the next day – it is located on the second floor of the Chesa Nuova.

The next morning, my first view is of the mountain panorama. Actually, snow was forecast for today, but it is still a long time coming. Since we finally decided to leave the skis at home due to the uncertain weather conditions and spend a relaxing weekend, we let the day start comfortably. It is worth planning enough time for breakfast. The Hotel Saratz offers an extensive buffet with many local products – including a wide variety of mountain cheeses, a rich selection of Graubünden salsiz and an extremely delicious homemade apple and chestnut jam.

Pontresina also offers a lot for non-skiers. Practically on the doorstep, for example, begins a cross-country skiing paradise with countless kilometres of cross-country trails through the beautiful landscape. Pedestrians and snowshoe hikers will find a winter hiking paradise on the “local mountain” Muottas Muragl. The view from up there over the Upper Engadine is simply bombastic. Otherwise, a train ride on the Bernina Express over part of the UNESCO World Heritage route is a good idea.

After the snowflakes say goodbye to the sun after a much too short intermezzo, we venture out into the fresh air. Passing the two pretty ladies waiting for a guest in front of the hotel, we take the train to the Ospizio Bernina, the highest station on the Rhaetian Railway. After a short walk along Lago Bianco, we treat ourselves to a punch in the Ospizio. Other great stops on this route are Alp Grüm and the terminus Tirano – especially for enjoying a real Italian aperitivo.

Shaken by the strong wind, we warm up again in the wellness area back at the hotel. In addition to the indoor pool with whirlpool and relaxation room with a view of the mountains, a sauna and a steam bath, there is also the oriental-inspired Saracen bath in a separate area. The basic construction of the room is based on a hammam. We treat ourselves to a Rhassoul for 25 CHF per person. The whole body is anointed with three different healing muds. A fun and relaxing pleasure at the same time. The skin feels silky soft afterwards.

On the second evening we spontaneously go to the Stüva for dinner. The restaurant is listed as a recommendation in the Michelin Guide and is located in the Hotel Müller within walking distance of the Hotel Saratz. The amuse bouche menu (7 courses) costs 79 CHF and convinces from A to Z. Great service, fantastic dishes and a cozy ambience.

Back at the hotel, we treat ourselves to a nightcap in the Salon Rouge next to the cozy fireplace. Oh, perfect! That’s exactly what relaxed mountain holidays feel like.

If you are looking for a great starting point for an active winter holiday in the Engadine, the Hotel Saratz is the right place for you. Charming staff and the wide range of offers ensure an uncomplicated stay. In the winter season, the comfort rooms cost from around 365 CHF / night including breakfast.

Note: I was invited to this stay by the Hotel Saratz – thank you very much for this. As always, my readers can be sure that I always represent my views and enthusiasm here.