Tampere – enlightenment in winter

We thought it couldn’t get any worse. After experiencing Helsinki and Turku in all shades of grey, we hoped to finally find the sun in Tampere (we had already given up hope of snow). But it got worse.

TAMPERE ALL BRIGHT

Early in the morning we leave Turku as we came – by train. After a two-hour drive (ticket price around 35 euros) we reach Tampere, the third largest city in Finland, which is idyllically located between two lakes, the Näsijärvi and the Pyhäjärvi. The city is also the starting point of the Finnish Lake District, which is called the green heart of Finland with its thousands of pristine sparkling waters. It’s green, but unfortunately it doesn’t glitter at all today.

“Tampere all bright” – we thought the name said it all, but far from it. Tampere seems a bit more dreary to us than Turku. The dark clouds weigh heavily over the industrial buildings. They also gave the city the nickname “Manchester of the North”.

We are moderately motivated to explore Tampere in this weather. The eternal twilight is slowly getting on our nerves. After we have checked in at the Cumulus Hotel Rautatienkatu (optimal location for train travelers, as it is right next to the train station), we pull ourselves together. We walk to the cathedral, which is one of the most important buildings of Finnish National Romanticism. It is also worth visiting the cathedral from the inside. Afterwards we cross the river that connects the two lakes, pass the market square, which seems a bit abandoned and marches on with a brisk step to the highest terminal moraine in Europe.

Where a glacier ended in the Ice Age, today rises 85 m above sea level southwest of the centre of Pyynikki. Our destination is the observation tower with café, which is located at the top of the terminal moraine and offers a great view over the city and the almost endless nature around it (or would offer, because we saw, uh, mainly gray clouds). We didn’t quite understand whether you have to pay an entrance fee for the tower or not. Since we didn’t see a cash register anywhere, we took the stairs without paying.

We walk even further south-west in search of the oldest public sauna in Finland, which is still in operation. On the way there, we cross the working-class district, where some pretty wooden houses provide splashes of color in the gray winter world. We only look at the sauna from the outside and then take the bus back to the city. However, it would probably be worthwhile to invest an afternoon in Finnish sauna culture.

The first impression is consistently positive and I can imagine that this city really pulsates and is full of joie de vivre in summer. Local recreation area and urbanity are definitely in harmony.

But since we don’t have summer, we have to escape the winter in a different way. What better way to do that than with the sweetest temptation you can find in Tampere? We make ourselves comfortable in the waffle café Vohvelikahvila (Ojakatu 2) and try our way through the waffle creations. Yes, I ate the following two waffles both one after the other. Delicious!

Afterwards we sit down in the next nice café, which is located on the corner of Ojakatu / Aleksanterinkatu and enjoy the rest of the afternoon with coffee and cake. So Tampere offers passable bad weather alternatives.

In the evening, we will take a taxi to Sarkanniemi Adventure Park. For dinner, we literally want to aim high. In addition to breakneck looping rides and themed worlds such as Angry Birds Land and Doghill (characters from picture books by author Mauri Kunnas), the adventure park also offers excellent culinary experiences in the revolving restaurant Näsinneula, which is located at the top of the TV tower. We taste the 5-course Finlandia menu (65 euros). For starters there is herring, followed by a Bloody Mary own creation, reindeer meat is served for the main course and finally there is regional cheese and sea buckthorn ice cream. During the meal we enjoy a unique view of a brightly lit Tampere. It’s amazing that the city seems almost brighter at night than during the day.

The digestive walk takes us to the cathedral, which is lit up at night, and the industrial buildings along the river.

The next morning comes the surprise. On our very last day in Finland, the sun fights its way through the cloud cover for five minutes and makes Tampere shine. Pure enlightenment! The spectacle is over far too quickly. There is barely enough time to take two mobile phone pictures and the sun has already said goodbye again. But we have the proof – Tampere is “all bright”.

If my writing seems a bit grumpy to you – don’t worry! We had a cozy time in Tampere thanks to waffles, coffee and cake. I wouldn’t advise anyone against visiting the city in winter, because we were just incredibly unlucky in terms of weather. Well, someday I will visit Tampere again. But then in the middle of summer, for fishing, kayaking and enjoying the warm summer breeze on the glittering lakeshore.

Note: My stay in Tampere was supported by Tampere Tourism. As always, my readers can be sure that I always represent my views and enthusiasm here.