Island happiness on Langeoog
I leave Bremen in the drizzle. And until shortly before Bensersiel, thick raindrops splash against the windows of the Ostfriesland Express. But my next destination – the East Frisian island of Langeoog – doesn’t seem to know any “bad weather”. As the ferry sets course for the island, the sky clears up. What timing! I stand at the railing with my hair disheveled by the wind and let the atmosphere sink in. When we dock in Langeoog about forty minutes later, I’m in holiday mode – and when I look at the relaxed and joyful faces all around, I don’t seem to be the only one who has temporarily stored everyday life on the mainland.
The perfect day on Langeoog
After this brilliant start to my time on the island, bed rest is soon the order of the day. The many impressions from Bremen coupled with wind and salt air make you tired. Fresh and cheerful, the first thing I do the next morning is try my way through the breakfast buffet of the Hotel Strandeck. “One of the best on the island”, as I am told from several sides. I like it too. The Bio Hotel focuses on regional and seasonal products from organic farming for the buffet. The perfect refreshment for an active day in the fresh North Sea air.
Sniff the sea air
Immediately after breakfast, I make my way to the beach, which is hidden behind the protective dunes a few meters in front of the hotel. The lighting mood this morning is brilliant. First of all, I stop, take a deep breath and look into the seemingly endless expanse in front of me. It’s the last weekend of October and there are only a few colorful beach chairs left on the beach. Until 1 November, everyone has to go to winter camp – that’s what the National Park Authority wants. The seven East Frisian Islands are part of the Lower Saxony Wadden Sea National Park and form a unique ecosystem worthy of protection. This morning I have the 14 kilometers of natural sandy beach almost to myself. Some walkers do the same and stroll through the sand. And far out in the sea I discover a kitesurfer who benefits from the strong gusts of wind.
Endless dune walks
I turn my back on the sandy beach and walk through the dune landscape towards the water tower. The dune vegetation offers a fascinating play of colours during these autumn days. From white to dark green to bright yellow: beach grass, rosehip, sea buckthorn, potato rose and whatever else thrives on the barren sand. At the water tower there is a beautiful panoramic view over the built-up part of the island of Langeoog. My last stop is my morning walk to the Protestant island church. The view into the church is worthwhile not only because of the beautifully harmonious architecture, but also because of the unusual altarpiece by artist Hermann Buss.
Feel, smell, taste the Wadden Sea
After this introductory tour around the village center, I am ready to discover the remaining 20 km2 of island area. For this, I am equipped with a bicycle. Whether you are an islander or a tourist, everyone cycles here. Mostly against the wind. Wadden guide Ossi aka Gerhard Siebers accompanies me on my exploration tour to the eastern tip of the island. Ossi is an original. He knows everyone and everyone knows him. In addition, he knows what to tell about everything. First we stop at the cuddly Scottish Highland cattle, which, unlike the fumroom sheep, like the grass on the island. We cycle on quickly with a westerly wind at our backs, examine the viewpoint on the Melkhörndüne from a distance and then make a detour to the salt marshes. They form the transition between land and sea. Only those who are travelling with an official mudflat guide are allowed to enter here. Ossi lets me taste the glasswort. “Ugh, that’s salty!”
At the eastern tip of the island there is a viewing platform with a view of the seal banks and the neighbouring island of Spiekeroog, where, according to the people of Langeoog, it is said to always rain. At least today the sun is shining over there (and I’ll go to the Spiekerooger cliché on site a day later). We don’t spot any seals, but flocks of migratory birds fill their bellies in the nutrient-rich Wadden Sea for the onward flight south.
On the way back, the wind blows full in our faces. But Ossi and I cheated. We are on the road with the e-bike and overtake nimb, laboriously pedaling guests. We allow ourselves a short breather despite the easier conditions. Almost all island guests take a trip to the eastern tip of the island during their stay and stop off at the dairy. The traditional dish of the Falke family, who run the restaurant, is the homemade soured milk with island sea buckthorn. So fine!
Ostfriesenglück
Back in the island village, I stop with Ossi at the Seekrug for a round of East Frisian tea. With its glazed windows, the panorama restaurant offers a magnificent view over the beach to far out into the North Sea, where container ships cruise on the horizon. Place the rock candy (Kluntje) in the teacup, pour Assam tea over it, add a drop of cream with a spoon and see if cream clouds form. The “Teetied” is a science in itself and an important part of East Frisian conviviality. If there are also such fine sea buckthorn cakes as in the Seekrug, then I would like to have 15 minutes of East Frisian happiness every day in the future.
Vastness and tranquility
Every visitor will find a suitable supporting programme on Langeoog as required. From cultural events to a wide range of sports to secluded stretches of beach where you can enjoy the beauty of nature in all solitude. I round off my day on the island with a trip to the western end of the island. “From the Flinthorn dune, there is the most beautiful view of the sunset,” I am promised in advance. Well, there’s nothing to add to that.
Nordseebrise, Nordseebrause
After pedalling against the North Sea breeze for many kilometres, my stomach growls. No problem. Gourmets will not miss out in Langeoog. Langeoog is the first German Fairtrade island to be committed to fair trade. Many restaurants also rely on regional products. The Seekrug offers many homemade specialties made from island products, and Kröger’s serves a fine burger with island venison in addition to the North Sea soda.
My time on Langeoog is over much too quickly. This wonderful island and its warm-hearted inhabitants have conquered a place in my heart in no time. And the dune landscape shimmering in the soft October light elicited several delighted “ah’s” and “oh’s” from me. Dear Langeoog, I’m sure we’ll see each other a second time.
Practical tips for your island break on Langeoog
- The journey via Bremen is relatively uncomplicated with the East Frisian Express. Tickets must be booked online in advance.
- Alternatively, the Bensersiel ferry terminal is also accessible by train and bus
- The ferry connection to Langeoog is not dependent on the tides.
- Langeoog is car-free. The route from the ferry port to the centre of Langeoog is bridged by a train
- Be sure to rent a bike (there are numerous rental stations)
- Hotel Strandeck offers simple rooms and a good breakfast
- If the weather is bad, visit the Langeooger coffee roastery or the Weinperle
- A guided mudflat hike through the Wadden Sea UNESCO World Heritage Site is a great experience
Note: This research trip was kindly supported by the North Sea island of Langeoog and the German National Tourist Board. All impressions/opinions are, as always, mine.
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