Lapland road trip – round trip in search of the Northern Lights

Actually, I would have to change my “about” page. It says that I don’t like to drive. I can’t say that anymore. Last year was road trip-heavy. It all started in Canada with ice, snow and a jeep. The car felt huge and I was all alone on the road. This was followed by a mountain pass ride in eastern Switzerland and a road trip in Mallorca. After that, we drove across Andalusia and got a flat tire in Iceland at the end of the year. The insights from this – the boyfriend is good as a passenger – he can change tires – I have a firm grip on the wheel and driving is even fun. Iceland also made us really “funny” about the winter in Northern Europe. Hunting for the Northern Lights and driving on snow-covered roads. And so we started our travel year 2016 with a Lapland road trip planning. The goal: a good dose of winter. Sub-zero temperatures that make your breath freeze. And find the Northern Lights, with the knowledge that this is not a matter of course, even with a time budget of one week.

Day 1 – 160 km – from Levi to Kilpisjärvi

We flew with an evening flight with Finnair via Helsinki to Kittilä. Helvetic Airways flies directly to Kittilä, but when we booked at the end of December, these flights were already fully booked. Immediately after arrival, we picked up our rental car and were shocked to find that it had no spare tire (supposedly the “modern” cars don’t have it anymore). I briefly imagined the scenario of us getting stuck with a flat tire somewhere in the tundra at -30° Celsius. Fortunately, it didn’t come to that. That evening we drove about 20 kilometers to our accommodation in Levi, where we were greeted with a timid green stripe on the horizon when we looked out of the hotel window. A nice start.

Beautiful light and a freezing cold greeted us the next morning. The 160 km from Levi to Kilpisjärvi were entertaining to drive and offered beautiful photo opportunities – especially thanks to the softly subdued light. In Kaaresuvanto, at the turn-off to the Swedish Karesuando, we fortified ourselves with coffee and donuts and reached Kilpisjärvi in the early afternoon.

There is not much going on in Kilpisjärvi. Many Norwegians make a pilgrimage here on weekends to whizz around on snowmobiles to their heart’s content. We chose the gentle method, strapped the snowshoes we had taken with us to our feet and climbed the local mountain “Salmivaara”. Despite almost -30° Celsius, we worked up a sweat during the thirty-minute ascent. The effort is rewarded. From the top there is an enchanting view over Kilpisjärvi and the striking Saana, which is considered the sacred mountain of the Sami.

Day 2 – 160 km – from Kilpisjärvi to Tromsø

Amazingly, the engine started the next morning without any problems even without warming up the engine at the socket. These engine heaters are everywhere in Finnish Lapland and are used from around -15° according to our car rental company. It seems that some drivers plug in the cable as a matter of principle, even though it would not be absolutely necessary. In the same way, as a matter of principle, you leave the engine running when you go to a gas station shop for a short time.

Shortly after Kilpisjärvi we pass the Norwegian-Finnish border and stop at the roadside to capture the beautiful morning atmosphere. After that, the landscape changes abruptly. We leave the barren plain behind us and dive into the rugged fjord landscape of northern Norway. If I had to give out points, Norway would be ahead in terms of scenic beauty. But that’s a matter of taste. Driving is definitely more exciting here than on the dead straight tundra tracks of Finland.

What you can do in Tromsø with a time budget of 24 hours, you can read here.

Day 3 – 200 km – from Tromsø to Spåkenes Sjøbuer

On the third day, thick snowflakes took their toll on my driving skills. In Tromsø, the snow set in quickly and turned the sometimes steeply ascending roads into slippery sections. Studded tires do their duty on stuck snow surfaces. As soon as there is fresh snow and a certain incline, driving is no longer quite so easy. Due to thick clouds and poor light for beautiful photos, we drove the 200 km to Rotsund, which is further north, without a break, with the exception of a refuelling stop, and enjoyed the rest of the day in our idyllic wooden house right on the shore of the Lyngenfjord. We chose this accommodation because of its seclusion and the impressive panorama of the opposite peaks of the Lyngen Alps. A bull’s eye! Bombastic views and a fantastic place to stay. The kitchen is fully equipped – even including a microwave. A place to which sooner or later we will return to enjoy this panorama for a full week.

Day 4 – 200 km – from Spåkenes Sjøbuer to Sorrisniva

After the weather disappointed us the day before and through the night with a thick layer of clouds, we were offered a natural spectacle this morning to reconcile. If I had to choose my own personal favorite photo moment of the trip. That would be him. The fjord is deep blue. Behind it, the snow-covered peaks of the Lyngen Alps, glowing in the gentle dawn. A magnificent sight! But that was just the beginning. On the route from Spåkenes Sjøbuer to Alta, there is no shortage of beautiful roads and views. A great driving experience that cost us almost twice as much time because we kept stopping for photos. In Alta we had a lunch refreshment in the Du Verden Matbar and visited the striking Northern Lights Cathedral.

Luck was clearly on our side that day. Finally, the night sky over northern Norway gave us a light spectacle in neon green, violet and turquoise. It’s day 4 and we’ve found the Northern Lights.

Day 5 – 280 km – from Sorrisniva to Kaamanen

As if Peter had shot all his powder at the lecture, the tundra landscape of Finnmark presented itself in a uniform grey. Shortly after Soorisniva we had to cross a kind of pass road, which was quite tricky to drive because of all the snow drifts. After that, the landscape hardly changed for 200 kilometers. In Karasjok – the centre of the Norwegian Sami – we had a short picnic in a parking lot. Instead of just feeding, we would have been better off stocking up on provisions. Our accommodation in the log cabin settlement Giellajohka was far off the beaten track. The restaurant is closed in winter and the owner said: “the nearest petrol station shop is 35 kilometres away”. Apart from that, a great location to photograph the Northern Lights. But they weren’t quite as keen to dance that evening as they had been the day before. That’s how we put ourselves in the limelight.

Day 6 – 100 km – from Kaamenen to Saariselkä

On the way to the Kakslauttanen Arctic Resort near Saariselkä we made a stop in Inari and visited the Sámi Museum Siida. An exciting stopover for those who would like to learn more about the culture of the Sámi people and the original life in Lapland. Spontaneously we made a detour to the Inari Reindeer Farm. We had spotted reindeer on the side of the road twice on the way. But I really wanted to cuddle with “Rudolf” and take a closer look at the animals on the reindeer farm.

By appointment, sleigh rides including cultural insight are offered at the reindeer farm. We were able to join a registered group (cost 50 euros).

Day 7 – 17 km with 6 dog strengths – around Saariselkä

Even before we started our trip, we had signed up for a 4-hour husky safari at Husky & Co in Saariselkä. The tour costs 160 euros with transfer and food (there was a delicious salmon soup in a round hut somewhere far out in the tundra – my clothes still smell like a smoked sausage now). I was in Alberta on a short tour last year and found this longer tour more exciting. The friend was astonished when he realized how exhausting the life of a musher is. His thighs were still burning two days later. But he gave it his all.

Back in Saariselkä we warmed up again in the sauna and then treated ourselves to a fine dinner in the restaurant Pirkon Pirtti.

Day 8 – 240 km – from Saariselkä to Levi

Day 8 takes us back to the winter sports resort of Levi, where we are greeted by fir and spruce trees covered in thick snow. This is where our road trip ends, but we don’t start our way home until one day later.

We drive past our hotel (Levi Panorama Resort) to the highest point of the ski area at 400 m above sea level. The signposts are covered with thick layers of ice and snow and the restaurant resembles the sculptural fir trees in appearance. Levi – or Sirkka – is a casual winter sports resort and offers an abundance of restaurants, cafes and nightclubs. We recommend the Kuura Brasserie & Winebar (update October 2018: this restaurant has unfortunately been closed). The lunch menu is small, but everything is delicious and the chocolate cake is a dream for those with a sweet tooth.

Good to know: Winter road trip through Lapland

• All rental cars are equipped with studded tires, ice scrapers and – in Finland – power cables.
• The motor warmers are installed at almost every accommodation in Finnish Lapland.
• Strong winds and snow drifts can severely impair visibility. Always drive at a distance
• Sunglasses are mandatory. The snow is dazzling even on gray days.
• The further north, the greater the chance of seeing the Northern Lights.
• Consult the Aurora Forecast pages regularly.
• In clear weather, observe the sky even with low HP values. Between 9:00 p.m. and 2:00 a.m., the odds are at their best.
• At the 5Reicherts you will find a detailed guide to Northern Lights photography (focus on Lofoten)

Merken

Merken