Les Diablerets in the most beautiful gray

After we were able to start our weekend in the Vaud Alps with a snowshoe tour in almost sunny weather, the next morning the sky is a uniform grey. But as the saying goes – there is no such thing as bad weather, only bad clothes. At least it’s not just grey, but Mother Hulda shakes the clouds vigorously and perfect powder snow trickles.

We shoulder our skis and head to the valley station of the Villars – Roc d’Orsay gondola, which, along with the narrow-gauge Bex-Villars-Bretaye railway, takes winter sports guests from Villars to the ski area. We are equipped with a so-called Alpes Vaudoise / Glacier 3000 ski day pass (61 CHF plus 5 CHF fee for keycard). This means free travel in the entire Villars-Gryon, Les Diablerets and Glacier 3000 ski area. Alternatively, you can also buy a day ticket for 52 CHF Villars-Diablerets (without glacier). On a foggy day, this would probably be the more sensible option, but we – or rather I – want to aim high today.

In order to get an overview of the large ski network – 70 lifts and 225 kilometres of slopes are waiting to be discovered – we slowly traverse from the Roc d’Orsay towards Les Diablerets. The fresh snow is perfect and thanks to the many fir trees, the visibility is better than expected. Again and again I have to stop to marvel at the numerous chalets next to the slopes. It is rumored that one or the other belongs to well-known personalities – but we are secretive ;).

At the top of the Chaux Ronde, a large poster reminds us of the time to be observed for the last connection from Les Diablerets back to Villars. As with all large ski resorts, you should keep an eye on the time. If you miss the last connection, the only option is to take the train and bus back to Villars, which takes much longer than a 10-minute chairlift ride.

But first we take the Perche-Conche chairlift over to Les Diablerets. Now you might think that such a chairlift ride (without windshields and heated seats, of course) through wafts of fog and snow flurries would suck… Well, if you’re thinking that now, then go to Villars and sit on this chairlift!

We are comfortably rocked through an idyllic and enchanting winter landscape. The first row of freshly powdered fir trees is still clearly visible, the back rows are slowly disappearing into the mist. Oh, if it were up to me, this elevator ride could have lasted forever. The boyfriend next to me is from my constant “oh so beautiful”, “oh look, so great”… already slightly annoyed when we fortunately reach solid ground again. Les Diablerets, we are here. We make our curves through the powder snow and drive down into the valley.

Around 11 a.m. we arrive at les Diablerets. Just right for a short break including hot chocolate in the cozy restaurant Vioz. The idiosyncratic weather forecast in front of the restaurant shows that people here have the sun in their hearts. We are now spoilt for choice – skiing in the Isenau area, which is located on the north-eastern slope above the village, or via Col du Pillon to the Glacier 3000?

Admittedly, until a few hours ago I was of the opinion that “Les Diablerets” and Glacier 3000 are one and the same. What a fatal mistake. Les Diablerets is a delightful village. One rustic chalet follows the other. Here you will hardly find any glamorous buildings or other building sins. Why on earth did I not know this pretty place even existed?!

If an idea has formed in my head, then I am not difficult to dissuade from it. Despite the adverse weather conditions, we take the post bus to the Col du Pillon and take the gondola lift including Bollywood entertainment up to the summit restaurant Botta. The panorama up here is said to be magnificent. Well, unfortunately I can’t confirm that, because I can see just under 20 m away… The oversized wooden marmot stands somewhat abandoned on the abandoned viewing platform.

Not a big deal. We enjoy a proper lunch in the restaurant (burgers and Älplermagronen) and then return to Les Diablerets. At some point we will have to repeat this in the sunshine, because there are supposed to be great descents up here.

Despite the lack of sun, time has flown by and suddenly we have to hurry to catch the last lift. Punctually to the minute, we reach the Perche-Conche chairlift and enjoy the unique winter landscape once again.

We end the day comfortably in the excellent restaurant La Petite Table (Route de Solalex 68). Once again, it has been shown that grey can also be quite charming!

Info and tips:

• Take your time and take a short walk through Les Diablerets
• For cable car freaks: The connection Les Diablerts – Isenau is served by a nostalgic gondola lift
• For ski cracks: The winter season on the glacier lasts from October to May
• For families: children under the age of 9 ski for free all season
• From 4 days, a Superpass (connection Alpes Vaudoise and Gstaad Mountain Rides) can be purchased

Note: My stay in the Vaud Alps was supported by Villars-Gryon-Les Diablerets Tourisme. As always, my readers can be sure that I always represent my views and enthusiasm here.