Grimsel Hospice – visiting the hotel in winter

Rushing to work, quickly answering an e-mail, thinking about what to cook at the same time, calling a customer back, ironing the crumpled shirt, finally doing laundry, thinking “oh, they should be cleaned again” at the sight of the windows, paying bills at the last minute… Whew! Sometimes everyday life seems like a spinning hamster wheel that should be stopped urgently. From 100 to zero!

When I heard last summer during a visit to the Haslital that the venerable Grimsel Hospice had opened its doors in winter for guests who simply wanted to switch off, my longing was awakened. That’s where I have to go. Far away from the hustle and bustle of everyday life, indulge in idleness in the midst of a snow-covered mountain landscape. Sounds wonderful, doesn’t it?

As early as the early Middle Ages, an inn offered travellers a shelter over the Grimsel Pass. However, the Grimsel Hospice in its current form with its massive stepped gable was not built until 1932 as a replacement for the old hospice, which had to make way for the reservoir in 1930. When it opened, it was the first electrically heated hotel in Europe and probably corresponded to the standard of a luxurious alpine hotel. To this day, the hospice is part of the KWO, which, in addition to the operation of the hydroelectric power plants, markets the region for tourism under the umbrella term Grimselwelt. From 2008 to 2010, the hospice underwent extensive renovations and has been a member of the Swiss Historic Hotels ever since. After the renovation, it was decided that the hotel should be open to guests not only in the summer months, but also in winter. The locals were skeptical about this idea. “Nobody comes up there in winter,” was the tenor. Well, they were sorely mistaken.

How to get to the Grimsel Hospice in winter

Even the journey to the hospice is decelerating and exciting at the same time. It takes place in groups at times communicated in advance. If you arrive by train, you can drive to Innertkirchen MIB and if you come by car, you can also park your vehicle there in the parking lot of the KWO. From Innertkirchen you can take the post bus to Handeck. Here we change to the first cable car, which takes us 300 meters up to Gerstenegg. This is followed by a ride through the underground maze of tunnels of the power plant buildings. But oh my, the car won’t start. Do we have to walk the three kilometers through the dead straight tunnel? A worker says to our troops in the broadest Haslital dialect dryly “dir cheit äppa nit id Feriä”. But more than one car seems to be hiding in the maze of tunnels and our guide is already standing in front of us with a roadworthy bus. For the last few meters of altitude, we dare to take a mini cable car, which brings us all safely to the top of the Grimselnollen.

A place of longing in winter

The hospice itself is located 300 metres below the Grimsel Pass and towers defiantly above Lake Grimsel. Unfortunately, the landscape welcomes us in a uniform grey. On this afternoon, the fantastic mountain panorama is hidden behind thick rain clouds. But that doesn’t really matter, because nice weather is just the encore here.

First, let’s take a look at our room. Zurich-based architect Andrin Schweizer demonstrated a keen sense for the renovation and based his colour concept on both the original architecture by Jacques Wipf and the surrounding nature. The majority of the furniture was made by local carpenters. A place to feel good.

After a short tour around the house (snowshoes are available to guests free of charge), we snuggle up in a cozy armchair behind a floor-to-ceiling glass front, read a book and watch the clouds dance in the storm.

The culinary well-being of the guests is well taken care of. In the afternoon, a cake buffet attracts guests to the Arvenstube. What could be better than devouring a sinful chocolate cake bite by bite by a crackling fireplace?

In the snow, there is another treat. Wrapped up in our bathrobe, we make our way outside. Just a few steps from the hotel is a steaming hot tub. Quickly putting your bathrobe on your side and getting into the water is much easier than getting out of the pleasantly warm water and back into the cold snow. But if running barefoot through the snow is really as hardening as it is always claimed, I certainly won’t get sick this winter.

The so-called Winter Oasis of Peace offer (in a double room from 255.- / night and person) also includes a 4-course gourmet menu in the evening. Here, in my opinion, the credo “deceleration” is taken too literally. According to the program, dinner will be served at 19:00. We are one of the first guests to take our seats in the restaurant. However, the first course is only served after the last ones have sat down and ordered the drinks – and that is shortly before 20:00. Well, at least it was worth the wait, because the salmon in particular is buttery tender and tastes fantastic.

On selected dates – usually Fridays – special cultural or culinary events (with a focus on wine) also take place. Our stay intersects with a jazz soirée. Before and after the gourmet menu, we listen to the sounds of “The Jazz Quintet” feat. Chantemoiselle in the Arvenstube.

Well-rested and relaxed, we grab a good meal at the breakfast buffet the next morning. Who can resist a local mountain cheese? Looking out of the window, my mood abruptly changes from relaxed to bright excitement. We are still delighted with the view of the magnificent mountain world. Shimmering delicately pink, the clouds briefly allow a glimpse of Lake Grimsel.

If I were a writer, I would stay at the Grimsel Hospice for a winter. Oh, what am I rambling about, I plead for home office and just move it to the Grimsel. There is a working wifi and well-placed sockets (this is to be expected from an energy producer). Cakes too. And that’s all you need up here.

Note: I have been invited to this stay by the Grimselwelt – thank you very much for this. As always, my readers can be sure that I always represent my views and enthusiasm here.