Love Affair Argentina Valley

Narrow, rugged, green, authentic. The Argentina Valley stretches from the coastal town of Arma di Taggia on the Riviera dei Fiori 40 kilometres deep into the Ligurian hinterland and rises to 2,200 m above sea level. A valley full of unspoilt nature and picture-postcard villages perched in the heights like eagles’ nests. And it should be said at this point: After two fantastic days around Imperia, the bar was set high.

Triora – the witches’ village

We start our journey to the Argentina Valley in Borgomaro in beautiful weather. From here we follow the narrow road uphill to the San Bernardo di Conio. Tricky are the many potholes and the narrow road, where two vehicles can only cross in a few places. My nerves! Without breakdowns or damage to the bodywork, we reach the top of the pass, whose view compensates for the thrill on the way. What a pity we would have exchanged this view for boring motorway driving. Our first stop in the Argentina Valley is the “witches’ village” of Triora. The history of the village is as fascinating as its location high above the valley floor. After a short stroll through the cobblestone streets, we stop at Café Ricici opposite the Chiesa di Triora. Here you can find local beers and fine homemade cakes.

Agriturismo l’Adagio – our home base in the Argentina Valley

From Triora we continue downhill towards Arma dei Taggia until we reach Badalucco. As soon as I drive over the bridge, I’m totally over the moon. “Look! So beautiful!!» Our accommodation, the Agriturismo L’Adagio, is a gem. Together with the stone bridge behind it and surrounded by olive groves, the Rustico makes a really good trap. The building was originally an olive mill and on the ground floor of the building the old mill wheel can still be seen. Hostess Rosella Boeri then explains to us how important the regional Taggiasca olive is for her and her family as olive oil producers. L’Adagio offers five “suites” in the mill building, which are equipped with a small kitchen. Four more rooms are located in the opposite building, including a small, fine spa. Around the rustici, garden niches invite you to linger (including a magnificent view of the colourful façade of Badalucco) and next to the spa, Rosella has created a vegetable garden where guests can cater for themselves. All with great attention to detail. A beautiful home base to explore the Argentina Valley in all its facets.

Oh Badalucco!

Yes, sorry, the ravings continue. Not only the agriturismo totally impressed us at first sight, but also Badalucco. In the morning, the village meets at Café Ca’Mea on the thoroughfare, the aperitivo is drunk in the piazza in front of the church and in the Osteria Cian de Bia one local specialty after another is served without being asked. We were forewarned and had a great time with the table neighbors who didn’t know what was happening to them. On Rosella’s recommendation, we splashed around in the river on the “beach” of Badalucco (yes, it was very refreshing) and hiked to the church high above the village in the early morning. The efforts are rewarded with a phenomenal view over Badalucco and the equally pretty neighbouring village of Montalto Ligure (very popular as a wedding location).

The most beautiful villages: Taggia, Bussana Vecchia und Dolceacqua

In the hinterland of the Riviera of Flowers there are a handful of so-called “borghi più belli” – i.e. villages that are among the most beautiful of their kind in Italy. We made a detour from Badalucco to Taggia, Bussana Vecchia and Dolceacqua. We met the most tourists in Dolceacqua, which is everywhere advertised as worth seeing with its striking arched bridge and the pretty old town alleys.

Surprisingly, we liked Taggia the best. Maybe it was because we didn’t meet any tourists there and drank our espresso surrounded by locals. The old town of Taggia, the second oldest in Liguria after Genoa, also impressed us with its winding alleys. Unfortunately, the gates of the Dominican monastery remained locked. This is said to have a beautiful cloister.

Bussana Vecchia, like Dolceacqua, is one of the top attractions of the Riviera dei Fiori. After an earthquake at the end of the 19th century, the village above San Remo remained a ghost town for a long time until it was illegally occupied by artists in the 1960s. After a lengthy back and forth with the authorities, the artists have now been able to obtain a right to stay. Strolling through Bussana Vecchia is a bit surreal. Many buildings are crumbling. The church is only half still standing. In between, there are small artists’ shops, galleries and cafés. The detour is worth it (even if I had gasping breath at times on the narrow, winding road there).

Unfortunately, such eventful holidays are always over much too quickly. But Rosella didn’t let us leave without giving us a souvenir to take with her. On the main street of Badalucco is the production building of the ROI olive oil including a small shop. The products are presented so beautifully that most visitors have a loose wallet. In addition to olive oil, Rosella’s son has recently started successfully brewing beer with olive leaves, and together with a food designer, they developed the award-winning Terre dall’italia. A kind of chocolate essence that carries the taste of the respective regions (sounds complicated, but is exciting in terms of thought). With two bottles of the purest Taggiasca olive oil and pickled Taggiasca olives in our luggage, we travel home. It was nice!

This trip was supported by the Green Pearls®. All impressions/opinions are, as always, our own.

Merken