Allalinhorn climb – my first 4000m peak

I’m not a summiteer. Quite the opposite. I didn’t care about summits at all. A beautiful hike does not require climbing a summit peak. But this summer, out of nowhere, I was gripped by summit fever. So I accepted several additional meters of altitude on the Toggenburg High Trail to enjoy the panoramic view from the summit of the Leistchamm and the Speer. Every single meter of altitude and sweat we lost on those hot summer days was worth it. And then, suddenly, this idea popped up:

“Anita, how about a four-thousand-metre peak?”

Hm, good question. Sounds high. Sounds like thin air. Sounds like adventure. And without thinking twice, I replied, “Sure, why not. We would have completed the basic training this summer.”

In Switzerland, 48 mountains break the magical limit of four thousand metres in altitude. Switzerland shares some of these with its neighbouring countries. Easy entry mountains for the first approaches at this altitude are the Breithorn in Zermatt and the Allalinhorn in Saas Fee. For our premiere, we opt for the latter. And so we summiteers made our way to Saas Fee.

The weather is still friendly when we arrive. The foehn has kept the clouds in check for a surprisingly long time. First we head for a sports shop in the village center of Saas Fee to rent the necessary equipment (crampons, harness and pole). To prepare, I had bought crampon-compatible hiking boots – after all, you don’t want to embarrass yourself in front of the mountain guide. Absolutely unnecessary, as it turned out in the sports shop in Saas Fee, because normal hiking boots in combination with crampons (attachment with baskets) would have been sufficient for this tour (note to self: the advice of the lady in the Bächli Sport was for the cat, because she didn’t even know where and what the Allalinhorn was).

Our base camp is the Wellness Hostel 4000 right next to the post bus station in Saas Fee. The new youth hostel was opened last autumn and offers uncomplicated guests the perfect starting point to discover Saas Fee. The double rooms are spacious and the dinner with soup, salad, main course and dessert costs 17.50 CHF for youth guests and external guests (registration until 17:00). The whole thing reminds me of the university canteen, but for this price it’s okay.

The thing about the weather

The alarm clock wakes us up the next morning shortly before half past six. The view out of the window brings disillusionment. The weather has totally changed. Danny, our mountain guide, puts us off by text message until 08:30 am. But there’s no point in waiting. By the minute, the clouds are getting darker and the raindrops are getting thicker. “Let’s see, maybe the Gorge Alpine is an option,” says Danny. My stomach has a sinking feeling. I hadn’t expected an almost three-hour via ferrata as an alternative to the mountain tour. Via ferratas and I are at war – but after all, you have to face your fears. But the heavy rainfall makes us abandon this plan and we agree to set the joker card for the next day.

Acclimatization on the Hannigalp

We go back to the wellness hostel, where we crawl into bed again. After noon, the bumblebees under our butts and the feeling of hunger in our stomachs drive us outside. It’s still dripping from the sky, but that doesn’t stop us from taking the cable car up to Hannigalp. On the one hand, it is the only cable car that is in operation on this day, and on the other hand, it is free for guests with the Citizens’ Pass. In the restaurant at the mountain station, I order an autumn salad, my friend a cordon bleu, and just in time for the Swiss Rock Café with a shot of abricotine, the first hesitant rays of sunshine of the day appear. We take the opportunity for a short acclimatization march from Hannigalp down to Saas Fee.

Ready, set, summiteers – Allalinhorn

The next morning, the first early morning glance out of the window reveals a tragedy similar to the day before. Wafts of fog drift through Saas Fee and the mountain flanks are completely taken over by the clouds. Shortly before seven o’clock another text message from Danny: “Good morning Anita, the cable cars are currently closed. Next info will follow at 07:30 a.m.” Will our four-thousand-metre premiere fail due to the gusts of wind? But when it comes to muesli and coffee, the view out of the window shows pleasing tendencies. The clouds are thinning. Here and there you can already see a bit of blue sky. Even at 7:30 a.m. there is still no definitive information from the mountain railways. Nevertheless, Danny decides that we will meet at 08:30 a.m. in full gear at the Alpin Express.

A wise decision. Punctually at 8:30 a.m. we are allowed to board the first gondola and less than 20 minutes later we reach the Mittelallalin station at almost 3,457 m above sea level with the Metro Alpin. Install crampons, check harnesses and off you go. I can’t really believe our luck and the tour that lies ahead of us. I’m most worried about the heights. Will I run out of breath or will I be able to breathe all the way to the top?

Soon it turns out that the puffing will be the least of my worries. There was about 30 cm of fresh snow overnight. We are the first rope team on this day and are allowed to do leads. “Normally, the ascent to the summit takes about two hours. In these conditions, we’ll probably be on the road a little longer,” says Danny and adds with a wink, “I’ve already earned the golden Ratrac this year anyway.”

I trudge step by step behind Danny and sink in up to my knees every now and then. Actually, I could sit comfortably in the office and drink coffee now, I think, with a view of the peaks in front of us. Will I make it to the top? No, the Allalinhorn is not a walk in the park on this day, and when we reach the plateau at the Feejoch, I’m pretty exhausted. Uncomfortable gusts of wind soon drive us on. “30 minutes to go,” Danny says and continues to make his tracks in the virgin snow.

Exactly 2.5 hours after setting off from Mittelallalin, we reach the summit at 4,027 m above sea level. Managed! However, the distant view does not elicit a shout from us on this day. There’s no need for that. Here, the path was my goal and I am incredibly proud that I have mastered this challenge. Maybe I’ll become a summit collector after all. Who knows.

Information and tips for your first four-thousand-metre peak:

• Even if the Allalinhorn is not technically demanding, the altitude and the weather (strong winds, rapid weather changes) should not be underestimated
• Only do the tour with an experienced mountain guide: Information about the tours and costs of the Saas-Fee Guides
• The Allalinhorn can be done either from Saas Fee via Mittelallin as a day tour or with an overnight stay in the Britanniahütte as a two-day tour
• Equipment: mountaineering boots, crampons, stick with round plate, harness, gaiters
• The package “my first four-thousand-metre peak” can be booked from 364 CHF per person (incl. 2 nights, mountain guide and equipment)
• Bad weather alternative with an adrenaline rush: Gorge Alpine
• As a reward, treat yourself to a burger in the Dom Stübli (Dorfplatz 2)

Note: Our stay in Saas Fee was supported by the Free Republic of Holidays Saas Fee. Thank you very much for this! As always, my readers can be sure that I always represent my views and enthusiasm.