Raval – the Barcelona for repeat offenders

Barcelona for the first, for the second, for the third time! There are these places that we keep coming back to. My first time in Barcelona was when I was 16 years old together with my mum. A real mother-daughter outing. I vividly remember the moment when, after an hour’s train ride, we realized that we had not driven up the Costa Brava as planned, but had reached the terminus shortly before Montserrat. The second time was a relatively spontaneous event, where I went over the weekend to follow friends who had gone on a birthday trip there. And now Barcelona was on the agenda again this November. Especially in the off-season, it’s a great destination to escape the November gray for a short time to fill up on vitamin D in sunny Spain. From Zurich, there are numerous direct flights with Swiss and Vueling. We opted for the early Friday morning flight with Swiss. Zurich at 07:15, Barcelona at 09:05. So we were able to enjoy the three days of the long weekend to the fullest on site.

After an almost punctual landing, we bought the round trip ticket for the Aerobus at the airport (10.20 euros instead of 5.90 euros each for the single trip) and drove directly to Plaça de Catalunya. After staying outside of Barcelona the first time and booking a hotel in the Eixample last time, our accommodation this time was on the Rambla del Raval. The former harbour district (and very early suburb of historic Barcelona behind the city walls) is located to the west of the Rambla between the Barri Gotic and the Poble Sec. A multi-layered neighbourhood that still has to gnaw away at its past as a red-light district and is being rediscovered by artists, creatives and hipsters alike. But it is also a neighbourhood that is off the beaten track and still has a lot to offer. Culture, good food, shopping, everyone gets their money’s worth here. The Barcelona for advanced skiers. Although I was visiting the city for the third time, Raval was completely new territory for me.

Geschlafen – Barceló Raval

Barceló Raval | Rambla del Raval, 17-21

On the Rambla del Raval, two buildings attract attention. On the one hand, there is the thick “el gato de Raval”, a work by the Colombian artist Fernando Botero and a symbol of the district. On the other hand, it is a building with a peculiar oval floor plan and a metal façade that towers over all the other buildings. As part of the urban renewal projects in the district, the Spanish hotel chain Barceló has seized the opportunity to build an interesting hotel. On the ground floor is the reception, which flows smoothly into the so-called B-Lounge. But the jewel in the crown is the roof terrace, which offers a 360-degree panoramic view high above Barcelona’s sea of houses. In the rooms, interesting accents have been set with colour contrasts and patterns. The metal grille in front of the floor-to-ceiling window takes some getting used to. With this façade design, the architect did not want to provoke a cage effect, but rather to solve the challenges of sunlight and views into the rooms.

We were able to enjoy a junior suite, which has a floor plan about twice as large as a superior room. The view from every room is phenomenal though. In addition to the roof terrace, a big plus point of the hotel is the central location, which allows you to discover many sights in the Barri Gotic and also in Raval itself on foot. In the low season, the superior rooms cost from 85 euros/night.

Done – Sightseeing

All kinds of bizarre things strolled around |

Since I had already visited most of the tourist spots on my previous visits, this time we devoted ourselves a little more intensively to the district of Raval. For vintage freaks and lovers of small shops, the quarter is a real treasure trove. There are rows of historic shops (which can be recognized by the base plate with engraving in front of the entrance), grocery stores from all over the world (Lebanese, Russian, Pakistani…) and vintage eyewear shops or graffiti shops. You won’t find standard and 0815 chains here.

Stadtgeschichte gesehen | Sant Pau del Camp Monastery, Sant Pau
Street

Built in 1117, Monestir Sant Pau del Camp is located in the heart of Raval. You have to imagine what this building has already experienced. It is interesting to note that the ground in front of the monastery complex is about one metre lower than the current road surface.

In den Markttrubel eingetaucht | Boqueria Market, Las Ramblas

The market halls of the Mercat de la Boqueria are located directly on the Rambla. I recommend not walking past the overloaded fruit, vegetable, meat, fish and confectionery stalls with a hungry stomach. Because even if you don’t enter the market hall hungry, you’re guaranteed to leave hungry. Luckily, there are plenty of stalls where you can buy appetizers.

Gaudí’s Geheimnis gelüftet| Palau Güell, Nou de la Rambla
Street

What I’m about to tell you is a real insider tip. Casa Batlló is usually touted as the number 1 Gaudi destination. Admission costs 21.50 euros without discounts. If you’re unlucky, you’ll also have to wait in line in front of the house for a long time. The Raval district is home to the Palau Güell. Also one of Gaudi’s masterpieces, only much less known. This may be due to the fact that the Palau remained closed for several years for extensive renovation work. The entrance fee there is 12 euros and what you get to see for it is in my eyes far more impressive than in Casa Batlló.

P.S I have taken photos of the interior of the building, but unfortunately it is not allowed to publish them publicly.

360° gestaunt | Barceló Raval, Ramblas del Raval

A must-see in Raval is a trip to the rooftop terrace of the Barceló. We were fortunate that our room was only two floors below this observation deck and of course we enjoyed the sunrise and sunset from this exclusive location. The terrace is also open to the public. There are sun loungers and tables upstairs. The perfect place to start the evening with a drink after a full day.

Eaten – Restaurants

Für Naschkatzen | Chök Calle del Carme 3

In Raval there is not only a lot to see, but also a lot to eat. The neighbourhood boasts small, fine restaurants. For example, Raval is the only place in the world where you can eat a “Krönut”. The croissant and donut mix is an invention of the innovative Chocolate Kitchen Chök, which has taken up residence in a historic chocolate shop and sells a motley selection of donuts and other specialties.

Burgers | The Informal Rambla del Raval 32

A gourmet burger shed that has what it takes. The burgers cost between 5 and 8 euros and come with many extras such as goat cheese (I ordered). A cozy and uncomplicated place for lunch stop.

Tapas and Drinks

Before 9 o’clock in the evening, hardly any restaurant in Raval has its kitchen open. If you already feel a slight growl in your stomach, the best way to remedy this is with a drink and tapas. For example, the locals meet in the Bar Raval and start the evening with a tinto (red wine). I, on the other hand, ordered a marguerita. If so, then yes. Good tapas and drinks are also available in the B-Lounge at the Barceló.

Like a Local | Succulent Rambla del Raval, 43

When the waiter with an apologetic smile puts the Catalan menu in front of you and explains to you in the most charming Spanish what Catalan gibberish means, then one thing is clear, you are in a place where the locals also go to eat. The tapas restaurant Suculent was my culinary highlight in Raval. Our dinner with tapas, two main courses, dessert, cava and beer cost 75 euros.

Another good choice is “Las Fernández” (Carrer de les Carretes, 11). If you want to have a table, you should book at least one day in advance. With a bit of luck, you can still find a place at the bar without a reservation.

Raval Brunch | Barceló Raval

On Sundays, they meet at the Barceló. The popular Raval Brunch takes place here between 12:00 and 16:00. For 25 euros per person, you can enjoy an extensive buffet of salads, tapas and sinful desserts. To finish, I have the choice between a glass of cava or mimosa. I opt for the Mimosa, with which I go back to the roof terrace, satiated and filled with many new impressions. Salud Barcelona, Hasta la próxima vez!

Note: I have been invited to this stay by the Barceló Raval – thank you very much. As always, my readers can be sure that I always represent my views and enthusiasm here.