Sicily Road Trip: 9 Places and Tips for an Unforgettable Journey Around the Island

Sicily is one of the most fascinating travel destinations in the Mediterranean. Italy’s largest island captivates visitors with its history-rich and colorful cities, ancient temples, baroque old towns, and spectacular natural landscapes around Mount Etna. Last May, we visited this incredibly diverse island for the first time and were instantly smitten.

During our two-week trip through Sicily, we discovered some of the island’s most beautiful places. Our route took us from the lively capital Palermo to elegant Taormina, on to the baroque towns of the Val di Noto, and to the impressive temple complexes of Agrigento. It’s a road trip that will especially appeal to travelers who want to combine culture, striking nature, and relaxing moments by the sea.

In this article, we’re sharing nine tips and places you shouldn’t miss on a trip to Sicily. They also include selected restaurant and accommodation recommendations from our own road trip.

Our Sicily Route – Road Trip by Ferry and Rental Car

For our trip to Sicily, we set aside a total of 18 days including the outbound and return journey. The actual road trip, during which we explored the island clockwise, lasted exactly two weeks. Instead of flying, we traveled by train to Genoa and from there took the overnight ferry to Palermo. Before diving into the individual trip highlights, here’s a quick overview of our route.

Palermo – 2 nights
The trip began in Sicily’s vibrant capital. With its markets, palazzi, and historic churches, the old town is perfect for immersing yourself in the island’s atmosphere.

Taormina – 2 nights
We continued to the east coast to Taormina, with a stop in Cefalù along the way. This elegant resort town delights visitors with its ancient theater and spectacular views of Mount Etna and the sea.

Viagrande (near Catania) – 2 nights
A stop at a charming boutique hotel in a restored 18th-century historic residence in the village of Viagrande above Catania. It’s an ideal base for a trip to Mount Etna and at the same time the perfect opportunity for a few relaxing hours by the pool.

Syracuse (Ortigia) – 2 nights
The old town of Syracuse lies on the small island of Ortigia and is one of the most beautiful places on the east coast. Once the largest and most powerful city in Sicily in ancient times, it now also stands out for its lively arts and culture scene.

Ragusa – 2 nights
Ragusa served as our base for exploring the baroque towns of the Val di Noto. From here, day trips to Noto, Modica, and Scicli are easy to combine.

South Coast near Agrigento – 3 nights
To round off the road trip, we spent three relaxing days at the ADLER Spa Resort Sicily on the south coast. From here, you can also visit the impressive Valley of the Temples in Agrigento.

Palermo – 1 night
At the end of the trip, we returned to Palermo for one final evening in the city.

1. Discover Palermo – the Perfect Start to Your Sicily Road Trip

Palermo is an ideal starting point for a road trip through Sicily. The island’s capital is loud, colorful, and full of history. Arab, Norman, and baroque influences shape the cityscape and make Palermo a fascinating place best explored on foot.

A good place to start is the Palermo Cathedral, whose architecture brings together several different eras. From the rooftop terrace, you get a beautiful view over the city’s rooftops all the way to the surrounding mountains. Just a few minutes away on foot, Palermo shows its liveliest side at the traditional markets. Naturally, we also couldn’t miss Palermo’s oldest market, the notorious «Mercato di Ballarò», and wandered through the narrow alleys packed with market stalls. Verdict: nice to see, but not an absolute must.

A real highlight for us instead was Palazzo Butera. This impressively restored aristocratic palace right by the sea now hosts exhibitions and an impressive collection of contemporary art. A visit to the Galleria d’Arte Moderna (GAM) is also well worth it.

Palermo also scores with a surprisingly exciting wine bar scene. We especially liked Bar St’orto and «dal Barone». Slightly away from the bustle, you can sit wonderfully relaxed on a quiet piazza at L’Acerba Osteria Dinamica. If you want to treat yourself to a special culinary evening, reserve a table at MEC Ristorante. The ambiance is a bit unusual, but the food and service are excellent.

Where to stay in the old town
The Casa Nostra Boutique Hotel & Spa (affiliate link) is lovely, offering a peaceful oasis right in the heart of the old town with its small courtyard and pool. Another great option is the B&B Palazzo Natoli (affiliate link) in a historic building right next to Via Vittorio Emanuele. It hardly gets more central than this.

2. Cefalù – the Perfect Stop on the Way to Taormina

After two days of sightseeing in Palermo, which in our opinion also works wonderfully as a standalone city trip, we continued toward the east coast. We first took the train to Palermo Airport, where we picked up our rental car.

For the drive to our next overnight stop, Taormina, we deliberately chose not to take the fastest route via the A19 freeway across the island. Instead, we followed the E90 coastal road along the north coast. This slightly longer route gave us the perfect opportunity to stop in the picturesque coastal town of Cefalù, which is also very popular as a beach destination.

The weather didn’t quite cooperate that day, but the short stroll through the old town was still worth it. Especially worth seeing are the small old town with its narrow streets between the sea and the striking La Rocca rock, as well as the Norman Cathedral of Cefalù with its imposing twin towers. But what made us happiest was finding the perfect place for a relaxed lunch at Locanda del Marinaio.

3. Visit Taormina – Spectacular Views of Mount Etna and the Sea

Perched high above the coast, the elegant resort town of Taormina offers a unique combination of historic sights, charming alleyways, and spectacular views of the Ionian Sea and Mount Etna. Thanks to the Netflix series White Lotus, Taormina has gained particular fame in the American market, and during high season it can get quite touristy here. We found the crowds in early May still perfectly manageable.

The best-known landmark is the Teatro Greco, an ancient Greek theater dating back to the 3rd century BC. From the stone tiers, you get one of Sicily’s most impressive views: the theater stage in the foreground, the sea behind it, and mighty Mount Etna on the horizon. Also worth doing is a stroll through the old town streets around Corso Umberto, where small boutiques, cafés, and historic squares line up one after another. The view from the Belvedere di Via Pirandello is also especially beautiful, offering a fantastic panorama over the coast and Mount Etna.

A personal highlight for us was the short trip up to the village of Castelmola. The short hike there takes about an hour and rewards you with wonderful views of Taormina and the coast. For a refreshment stop, Antico Caffè San Giorgio is well worth it, where we treated ourselves to a classic Sicilian combination of granita and brioche. Afterward, we headed back to Taormina and from there took the cable car down to Mazzarò by the sea. This is also where picturesque Isola Bella is located, a small island connected to the beach by a narrow strip of sand.

For a stylish aperitivo with a view, the Timeo Bar at the Grand Hotel Timeo is a great choice, with a terrace that offers a spectacular view of Mount Etna.

Where to stay:
The Taodomus Boutique Hotel (affiliate link) is located right on the old town’s pedestrian street and is an ideal base for exploring Taormina on foot. The rooftop terrace with views of Mount Etna is especially lovely for breakfast.

4. Experience Mount Etna – Visit Europe’s Most Active Volcano

We had originally chosen our third stop on this road trip specifically so that we could both take an excursion to Mount Etna and make a detour into Catania’s old town. In practice, though, we failed to find an official parking lot in Catania where we felt comfortable leaving our rental car. So all we got of the port city on the east coast, which from the car at least seemed just as chaotic as Palermo, was a somewhat superficial impression through the window.

So if visiting Catania is high on your bucket list, I’d recommend booking a hotel right in the old town. If, on the other hand, your focus is more on nature and relaxation, our version is the better choice.

We checked into the beautiful Relais San Giuliano (affiliate link) in Viagrande, a stylish boutique hotel in a restored 18th-century historic residence. The location above Catania is ideal for trips to Mount Etna, while the large garden and pool also provide a wonderfully peaceful atmosphere. The underground garage cost me a few gray hairs, but otherwise everything was top-notch.

From Viagrande, you can reach the south side of Mount Etna in about 30 minutes. We had actually planned to continue upward on the Funivia dell’Etna, but due to strong winds the cable car was unfortunately out of service that day. Instead, we took the opportunity to hike across the black lava fields around Rifugio Sapienza. The barren volcanic landscape with its cooled lava flows and wide-open views feels almost surreal and is definitely one of the most impressive natural experiences of our Sicily trip. Be sure to bring warm clothing and sturdy shoes!

5. Experience Syracuse and the Old Town of Ortigia

Syracuse is one of Sicily’s most fascinating cities and looks back on a long history. Especially appealing is the old town on the small island of Ortigia, which is connected to the mainland by several bridges. Behind the imposing city walls, baroque palazzi, small squares, and historic churches line up one after another, while the sea keeps coming into view.

An absolute must when visiting Syracuse is the Parco Archeologico della Neapolis. This sprawling archaeological park contains some of Sicily’s most important ancient sights, including the impressive Greek Theater and the famous «Ear of Dionysius», a cave carved into the rock with extraordinary acoustics.

In the evening, Ortigia takes on a particularly special atmosphere. The small alleyways and squares fill with people, and countless bars and restaurants invite you to linger. We especially liked the wine bar Cortile Varga Ortigia, whose relaxed atmosphere makes it perfect for a glass of wine in the early evening. If you’re after something more stylish, Bar Barcollo is a chic address for creative drinks. And for a sweet ending to the day, make a stop at Levante Gelato Artigianale, where they serve outstanding handmade gelato.

Where to stay
The stylish Byssus Suites (affiliate link) are conveniently located very close to Siracusa train station, where overnight trains also stop, as well as next to the large tourist parking lot where we also parked our car. The sights mentioned above are all easy to reach on foot from here.

6. Discover Ragusa, Noto, and Modica – UNESCO World Heritage in the Val di Noto

Southeastern Sicily is famous for its baroque towns. After the devastating earthquake of 1693, many towns in the region were rebuilt in the splendid Sicilian baroque style. Today, several of these towns are part of the UNESCO World Heritage site of the Val di Noto.

We planned our route so that we drove from Syracuse to Ragusa with stops in Noto and Modica along the way. With its old town, Noto is considered one of the most beautiful examples of Sicilian baroque. The main sights line up along Corso Vittorio Emanuele. Particularly beautiful are the views over the honey-colored baroque facades from the terrace of Palazzo Ducezio, now used as city hall, and from the Campanile di Noto. You should allow about two to three hours for a walk through Noto.

Modica, which stretches picturesquely over two hills, was our second stop. For a walk through the old town, it helps to keep two landmarks in mind: Belvedere San Pietro and the impressive Church of San Giorgio, which is reached by climbing a long staircase. For a short break, we recommend Martin Cafè, where we had an excellent espresso. Also a must is a gelato at Fargione, one of the best in the region. You should plan about three to four hours for visiting Modica.

On the second day, we made a short stop in Scicli on our way to the coast. This small town is still considered something of a hidden gem and charms visitors with a particularly beautiful baroque church and a relaxed atmosphere. We then continued to Marina di Ragusa, where we had lunch right by the sea at Votavota. Verdict: highly recommended.

Another restaurant recommendation in Ragusa
If you want to enjoy a special culinary evening, reserve a table at Duomo by Michelin-starred chef Ciccio Sultano.

Where to stay
The Ibla Rooms (affiliate link) in Ragusa impressed us with its excellent value for money. This B&B, located on the edge of the district, is an ideal base for exploring the baroque old town. The accommodation is also easy to reach by car, since the conveniently located Parcheggio Repubblica is right nearby.

7. Visit the Valley of the Temples in Agrigento

Just a few miles outside Agrigento lies one of Europe’s most important ancient sites: the Valley of the Temples. This extensive archaeological site is a UNESCO World Heritage site and impresses with several well-preserved temples dating back to the time of Greek colonization. Along a ridge about 1.2 miles long stand monumental structures that testify to the former importance of the ancient city of Akragas.

We planned our visit to the Valle dei Templi as a stop on the drive from Ragusa to our final overnight stop on Sicily’s wild south coast near Siculiana Marina close to Montallegro. At around 105 miles, this was the second-longest drive of our road trip. We didn’t reserve tickets in advance but bought them directly on site. Fortunately, the crowds were very manageable. Thanks to the size of the grounds, visitors spread out well, so even when it’s busier it rarely feels overcrowded. That said, there’s very little shade on the site. On hot summer days, it can therefore get very warm very quickly. The best time to visit is early in the morning or later in the afternoon.

Extra tip: Also along the route between Agrigento and the coast is the famous Scala dei Turchi, a bizarre-looking white limestone formation right by the sea. We skipped this detour in the end, but it’s easy to incorporate into the route.

8. Relax on Sicily’s Untouched South Coast

After so many cultural highlights and city visits, it was clear to us that we wanted to take the last few days of our road trip at a slower pace. Sicily’s south coast is perfect for this. Compared to the east coast, things are much more relaxed here, and in many places the scenery is defined by wide beaches, rolling hills, and largely untouched landscapes.

Our final stop took us to the coast near Siculiana Marina close to Montallegro, where we spent three nights at the ADLER Spa Resort Sicily (affiliate link). The resort is nestled in a nature reserve and offers fantastic views over the coast. The rooms, wellness area, pool landscape, and cuisine all fully lived up to our admittedly high expectations. By the way, the resort is one of the few vacation resorts in Sicily that stays open almost year-round.

9. Travel to Sicily the Relaxed Way – by Train and Ferry via Genoa

We deliberately chose not to fly and instead went for the combination of train and ferry. Thanks to the direct train connection from Zurich to Genoa, you can reach Sicily with practically just one transfer. The ferries to Palermo usually depart between 9 and 11 PM and don’t reach Sicily until the late afternoon of the following day. The crossing takes around 20 to 21 hours, depending on the connection and weather conditions.

That makes the journey feel almost like a mini cruise. You board in the evening, sleep on the ship, and spend the next day relaxing on deck while watching the coast of Italy drift by on the horizon. Especially practical: the ferry docks directly at the Port of Palermo, just a few minutes from the old town. As a foot passenger, however, you’re very much the exception here. We noticed that on the return journey, because the port terminal is heavily geared toward drivers. Apparently improvements are currently being worked on, but until they’re implemented, a little patience is still needed.

For the return trip, it’s a good idea to plan one additional night in Genoa. Right next to Genova Piazza Principe station is the elegant Grand Hotel Savoia, which is perfect for this final stopover. That also allowed us to visit one of the restaurants we hadn’t managed to try on our last trip to Genoa. And what can I say: ending this Italy trip with trofie al pesto at Trattoria Dell’Acciughetta could hardly have been more perfect.

Practical information: we sailed from Genoa to Palermo and back with a ferry operated by Grandi Navi Veloci (GNV). Tickets, including a cabin, can easily be booked online through their official website: gnv.it