Hike: from Sörenberg to the Merängge fun in the Kemmeriboden bath

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It is a cult pastry – the sweet Kemmeriboden Merängge, which was “invented” at the end of the 1930s as a solution for the cream surplus in the Kemmeriboden bath at the time. With lasting success – the special dessert in the country inn, idyllically located in the headwaters of the Emme, is still an attraction for day trippers and gourmets today.

With a newly designed special ticket from the regional public transport companies, the enjoyment experience in the Kemmeriboden pool can now also be perfectly combined with an easy hike through the enchanting moorland landscape of the Entlebuch. A detour that, thanks to child-friendly stops, is also ideal as a family outing. But be forewarned: The portion of Ämmitaler Merängge (Emmentaler Meringues) really has it all!

With the special ticket to Rossweid

After exploring one of the sportier mountain trails in the UNESCO Biosphere Entlebuch on the summit tour from the Hengst to the Schibengütsch this spring, this time we dedicate ourselves to the more leisurely hiking trails between Sörenberg and Kemmeriboden-Bad. An excursion that, by the way, also leads across one of the most incisive historical cultural boundaries of our country – for example, different Jass cards are used in Sörenberg than the Schrattenfluh in the Emmental (this belongs to the category: fun facts that you learn in geography studies).

We start our excursion early in the morning in Zurich and take the BLS via Lucerne to Schüpfheim. This is where the special ticket comes into play, which I bought the day before in the BLS webshop. Alternatively, you can also get the ticket on site on the PostBus lines 241 (Schüpfheim\u2012Sörenberg) and 251 (Escholzmatt\u2012Kemmeriboden) or at the mountain railways in Sörenberg. The ticket includes the post bus ride from Schüpfheim to Sörenberg Post, the subsequent gondola ride to the Rossweid, a portion of Merängge in the Kemmeriboden-Bad and the return journey by post bus and train to Schüpfheim. As always, we are on time and reach the valley station of the Rossweid gondola lift shortly before the start of operations.

The Rossweid is also an old acquaintance of ours. Here we started the gastronomic circular hike 1.5 years ago in significantly frostier temperatures. At that time, dense snow flurries obscured the view of the great panorama, which is flanked by the Brienzer Rothorn chain, the Hohgant and the Schrattenfluh. In summer, the Rossweid captivates young and old with the “Mooraculum” adventure park. On hot summer days, the many water features of the playground are a magnet for attraction. The adventure park also includes the 1.5-kilometre-long, stroller-friendly “Sonnentauweg” with 17 stations around the “Moor” habitat. By the way, it’s cool that all of this is accessible free of charge!

Hike through the UNESCO Biosphere Entlebuch via the moor landscape trail

Fortunately, the hike from the Rossweid to the Kemmeriboden-Bad is so short that you can easily stay a little longer in the Mooraculum. The hiking trail starts right next to the playground and leads from there along the moorland path through the middle of the core zone of the UNESCO Biosphere Entlebuch. The moorlands in the Rossweid-Salwiden area are of national importance and accordingly a sign indicates to stick to the paths.

We dive into the dense, dark green and follow the soft forest floor towards Salwiden. Here the view opens up out of the valley towards Flühli and the hiking trail turns from a narrow nature path into a wider gravel path. Soon after, the Salwideli mountain inn appears in front of us, where you can make a stopover if necessary.

We continue a few meters in altitude through an equally idyllic piece of forest down to Wagliseiboden. We are now directly between the flanks of the Schrattenfluh and the Brienzer Rothorn with the striking Augstmatthorn directly in front of us. At the level of “Schneeberg”, the hiking trail leads past a beautiful farm shop. The flower-adorned Stöckli is hard to miss – and the view into the Hoflädeli is definitely worth it! We stocked up on two syrup creations (red clover and golden balm) and a walnut pesto.

From Schneebergli, the gravel path, which was wide until then, turns into a nature trail again. Here we turn into the Emmental and cross the cantonal border between Lucerne and Bern at Unterhirsch. My stomach is now slowly but surely growling – luckily the Kemmeriboden bath is just around the corner.

Crowning glory in the Kemmeriboden bath

The Kemmeriboden-Bad has made a name for itself as a country inn and hotel with a locally well-anchored concept and its legendary merängge and is accordingly usually quite well frequented on weekends. If you would like to secure a table on the sun terrace around lunchtime, we recommend that you make a reservation in advance. Alternatively, a food truck in the entrance area also offers refreshments to spontaneous day-trippers.

Fortunately, we have secured one of the sought-after outdoor tables in advance and can now toast directly under the branches of the mighty tree in the garden with a house aperitif. The special ticket includes a portion of Merängge. However, the Kemmeriboden-Bad knows how to create a “delicious” menu, and the “Creamy Burrata from the Marbach Mountain Cheese Dairy” and the freshly caught “Trout Blue from Entlebuch” sound too good not to try. And although it’s not my first visit to the Kemmeriboden-Bad, I once again make the “beginner’s mistake” and order two portions of Merängge. So remember the following: If you order something in advance like we did, it’s best to share a portion with your counterpart and take the second portion home packaged – so you benefit twice.

After this all-round enjoyable hike from Sörenberg to the Kemmeriboden-Bad, you can take the Postbus and BLS via Escholzmatt back to Schüpfheim, where the special ticket ends or a connecting ticket to Bern or Lucerne can be purchased.

A tour that, by the way, is also great as an autumn hike. The season on the Rossweid lasts until 25 October 2020 (cable car in operation daily between 8:15 a.m. and 5:15 p.m. until 25 October).

Practical tips for your hike to the Kemmeriboden-Bad

The route of the hike from Sörenberg (starting point at the Rossweid mountain station) to the Kemmeriboden-Bad can be found on the map below. It is an easy hike (both in terms of route and condition) and scenically varied. The hiking time is between two and three hours, depending on the walking pace. If you are travelling with children, it is best to plan some time to explore the Mooraculum adventure world on the Rossweid. And at the Kemmeriboden-Bad, it is advisable to reserve a table in advance, as the country inn is a popular destination, especially on nice weekends.

BLS Sparangebot Spezialbillett «Sörenberg-Kemmeriboden»

The BLS special ticket includes the Schüpfheim-Sörenberg and Kemmeriboden-Bad-Escholzmatt post bus journeys, the BLS Escholzmatt-Schüpfheim route, the gondola ride from Sörenberg to Rossweid and a portion or pack of Merängge to take home at the Kemmeriboden-Bad country inn. The cost of this is CHF 39 for adults without reduction and CHF 25 with Half-Fare travelcard. All further information as well as the link to the webshop where the ticket can be purchased online can be found here: Special ticket “Sörenberg-Kemmeriboden”

 

Key data of the hike Sörenberg (Rossweid) – Kemmeriboden-Bad

Starting point	Sörenberg, mountain station of the Rossweid gondola lift
Length	9.2 kilometres
Elevation gain	↗ 103 m 592 m ↘
Duration	2:20 p.m.
Destination	Postautohaltestelle Kemmeriboden