To dream away: 5 special places and experiences in South Tyrol

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There are few regions that I have visited as often in recent years as South Tyrol. From the legendary ski circuit around the Sella massif to active hiking days in the Vinschgau Valley to the autumnal Törggele feast around Merano, you were able to get to know the northernmost province of Italy with all its facets. After our last trip to South Tyrol in January 2019 brought us to the magnificent Alpe di Siusi, I had envisaged a sporty bike tour through the South Tyrolean lowlands this year.

The planning for this trip was underway when it became apparent at the beginning of March that nothing would turn out in the coming months as we had neatly and with anticipation in our agendas. Whether and when we will be able to implement our latest travel plans for South Tyrol is still written in the stars.

Instead of pedalling through blossoming apple orchards and picturesque vineyards, I rummaged through my photo archive and picked out five special places – and so today I’m serving you my “best of South Tyrol” on a silver platter as a substitute, so to speak. In my opinion, there are at least three powerful reasons why a trip to South Tyrol should not be missing from your “post-Corona bucket list”:

• The consistently fantastic food – regardless of whether you stop at a simple wine tavern or an award-winning Michelin-starred restaurant
• The warmth of the South Tyroleans – each of my trips is associated with profound conversations, inspiring acquaintances and getting to know good-hearted people
• The variety of charming accommodations – in South Tyrol you will find the perfect place to stay for every need and every budget

1. Stroll through the smallest town in South Tyrol

Have you ever fallen in love with a place through the Postbus window? In 2013, I travelled for the first time from the Engadine by post bus over the Ofen Pass towards South Tyrol. There is definitely no shortage of scenic highlights on this route – but who would have thought that after the panoramic drive through the Swiss National Park and the Münster Valley five minutes before the stage finish, a medieval city gate would cast such a spell over the passengers? At that time, I was impressed not only by the driving skills of the Postbus driver, who had to do millimetre work when passing through the Malser Tor, but also by the pretty cobblestone main street that we had crossed before. Two years after this experience, I returned to Glorenza. This time in the luggage: time to explore the smallest town in South Tyrol extensively.

Two stops that should not be missed during a stroll through Glorenza are the exhibition “Stations of a Small Town” in the historic Sluderno Gate – part of the city-encompassing wall built at the behest of Emperor Maximilian the First in the 16th century – and, as a modern contrast, the Puni distillery – Italy’s only whiskey distillery to date.

2. Admire a postcard panorama on the Algund Waalweg

With around 300 days of sunshine a year, there is a good chance that your visit to South Tyrol will be blessed with glorious weather. South Tyrol is not only an enjoyable destination, but also an active one. The network of hiking trails is well developed and has some real highlights in store. These include the irrigation channels, which, similar to the bisses in Valais, follow the old irrigation canals on narrow paths. While the irrigation channels were once used for the time-consuming maintenance of the artificially created watercourses, today they are – thanks to the low gradients and panoramic hillsides – attractive hiking trails on which the cultural landscapes of the Vinschgau Valley as well as Merano and the surrounding area can be explored on foot.

The Algund Waalweg invites you to a particularly scenic hike. This starts in the village of Töll and leads in a good six kilometres via Lagundo to the Merano district of Gratsch. A wonderful short hike (about two hours) that can be perfectly combined with a stroll through the alleys of Merano.

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3. Stroll through the gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle

Picturesque arcades, secluded squares and great shop concepts such as the gourmet market “Pur Südtirol” – the spa town of Merano inspires me anew every time I visit. While everything is close together in the historic city centre and you will pass all the exciting corners during a leisurely stroll anyway, you have to go on a city walk to visit the unique gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle. The Sissi Trail leads from the city centre on winding paths through Merano’s historic villa district to the former imperial holiday home. The Austrian Empress not only made Merano famous with her spa stays on site, but also helped to shape the lush gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle.

In addition to the botanical diversity, I am inspired by the combination of nature, art and culture here – several artists’ pavilions are integrated into the gardens and as a highlight there is a spectacular view of the Merano basin from Matteo Thun’scher Blickcker.

4. Experience real quality on the mountain

A hike without a stop at a mountain hut? Unthinkable in South Tyrol! A hearty “Marende” in a traditional mountain hut or a rustic alpine inn is simply part of the excursion here. Depending on the South Tyrolean region, there are various quality seals for particularly outstanding companies. In the Vinschgau and Merano regions, the catchphrase “Genuine quality on the mountain” refers to particularly outstanding culinary experiences. One business that can also adorn itself with this quality award is the sympathetic Gompm Alm in the Hirzer area (part of the Sarntal Alps north of Merano). Almwirt Helmuth Gufler knows exactly how to catapult his guests into pleasure heaven. Breakfast lovers should definitely make a note of the delicious “Breakfast Gourmet” experience here – that’s only available by pre-order.

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5. Enjoy the dolcefarniente at Lake Caldaro

The last stop takes us south on the South Tyrolean Wine Road. This leads past the pretty wine villages of Caldaro and Termeno to Salorno. Historic wineries, magnificent views of some of the mighty Dolomite peaks and a palpable Italian flair. On the way to Lake Caldaro, it is worth stopping off at the Rose Appiano – here top chef Herbert Hintner, who is considered one of the best chefs in South Tyrol and celebrates fresh, regionally inspired cuisine, is at the stove. Also worthwhile is a tour of the Elena Walch winery in Tramin. It is not only the wines that are remarkable here, but also the girl power behind them. More than 30 years ago, Elena Walch was South Tyrol’s first female winemaker – as a trained architect. In the meantime, her two daughters Julia and Karoline have taken over the reins and continue to write their mother’s success story.

We ate well and drank a fruity drop – time to look for a nice place for an extended siesta. My tip: the Seehotel Ambach on the shores of Lake Caldaro. The seemingly timeless hotel building was designed by Othmar Barth, whose oeuvre is considered groundbreaking for the development of modern architecture in South Tyrol. Many details of the Seehotel Ambach have been preserved in their original state from the opening year 1974. A thoroughly fascinating building, whose sun terrace is one of my absolute favourite places in South Tyrol.

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And this is a particularly nice place to sleep:

As written in the introduction, you are well bedded in various places in South Tyrol. Below is a selection of accommodations that I remember particularly positively:

• Red Rooster – The South Tyrolean Association for Farm Holidays has over 1600 farms in its directory. From quaint 1-star establishments to well-equipped 5-star apartments, everyone will find accommodation tailored to their needs. One of my favorites is the Tiefentalhof in Monguelf-Tesido/Tesido/Tesido/ In addition to the well-equipped and homely furnished apartments, the Tiefentalhof scores with a magnificent panoramic view of the Dolomites.
• The Miramonti Boutique Hotel high above Merano is a first-class choice for those who want to treat themselves to a special weekend of pampering.
• Also located not far from Merano, Plars Castle, nestled in vineyards, offers an oasis of peace and a wonderful base from which to discover the region
• If you attach particular importance to sustainability and organic food, you are in good hands at the Bio Hotel Panorama in Mals – Italy’s first certified organic hotel
• Im Garten 9 – this holiday home in Gargazzone is still on my own bucket list, but I have already been able to convince myself of the fantastic host qualities of the owners Eva and Adi Thuile at other stations.