A guide to a perfect long weekend in Venice

My first visit to Venice was almost 10 years ago. In November 2012 I traveled to the lagoon city for the first time for a weekend and promptly got wet feet. This time we were luckier in terms of weather. Instead of the notorious wintry “Acqua alta”, we enjoyed three sun-drenched autumn days in Venice.

In this article, I’ll show you where we ate fine food in Venice, in which parts of the city there are the nicest cafés and how to spend a thoroughly relaxed weekend in the middle of the fascinating World Heritage Site – without “checking out” the sights. You can also find all my Venice tips on the map below.

Friday, 10:30 a.m.: by train Zurich – Venice direct

In my opinion, a relaxing weekend in Venice begins at Zurich train station. Equipped with a “survival package” from Sprüngli (the amaretti are already very good), we board the EC 327, which runs once a day from Zurich to Venezia S. Lucia. In 6 hours and 9 minutes driving time right into the heart of the lagoon city without changing trains – if that’s not a luxury? I use the driving time to work and am amazed at how much I have managed to do on the way when I enter Venezia S. Lucia. And even if a journey time of six hours sounds “long” at first, thanks to the direct connection, there are no interruptions and waiting times for connections or the like, which in my case have a negative impact on productivity.

[alert color=”FFFFFF” icon=”Select a Icon” title=”Mein Reisegepäck für Citytrips“]

We had already booked the train tickets to Venice and our hotel when the Swiss family business “Victorinox” asked me if I would like to test a product from their new “Architecture Urban2” collection. The five different business bags and backpacks in the collection are made of high-quality materials, offer plenty of storage space and impress with a practical interior layout including protected compartments for electronic devices. Since I’ve been looking for a bag that I can use for business appointments/trips as well as in my free time, I chose the 2-Way Carry Tote. Equipped with a laptop and other stuff, it’s perfect for heading straight for the train from the office to Venice and later – depending on the situation – converting the bag into a practical “backpack”.

In combination with the ultra-light (and surprisingly voluminous despite its compactness) Victorinox Airox suitcase, the Architecture Urban2 Tote has proven to be the ideal companion in Venice. The test run also stands up to everyday use. Since then, I have been using the bag every day (and my previous bag (which has accompanied me since secondary school days (!)) and is correspondingly damaged, I was finally able to send into well-deserved retirement)

[/alert]

Friday, 6:00 p.m.: Check-in in the lagoon city

Shortly before sunset, our train arrives in Venezia S. Lucia. Changing from the train to the vaporetto is quick – especially if you have downloaded the AVM Venezia Official App in advance. Since many vaporetto stations do not have a ticket counter, it is advisable to download the app to buy single tickets (one-way/single ticket 75 min, 7.50 euros) or alternatively buy a 1-, 2- or 3-day ticket (20, 30 or 40 euros) directly at the “Ferrovia” station.

After a 20-minute vaporetto ride on line 4.1 from Ferrovia to Arsenale, we arrive at our Venice base. The newly opened Ca’ di Dio (partner link), which is located directly adjacent to Venice’s magnificent waterfront promenade “Riva degli Schiavoni“. Thanks to the direct vaporetto connection and the proximity to the Biennale grounds, it is an ideal location for those who want to explore Venice away from the hustle and bustle between St. Mark’s Square and the Rialto Bridge.

Friday, 7:30 p.m.: “Local” Fine Dining

We had reserved a restaurant in advance for only one evening (Saturday). “We’ll find something then,” we were convinced. Accordingly, I had prepared myself for the fact that we would probably end up in some mediocre trattoria. The Google search directly on site yielded one or two promising hits. Without further ado, I picked up the phone and inquired about free tables and lo and behold: Less than an hour after our arrival, we were able to enjoy an excellent menu at the Ristorante Local. The young, talented local team focuses on regional products and knows how to stage them skilfully.

Saturday, 09:30 a.m.: Along the canals through Venice

The next morning we let ourselves drift through Venice’s maze of alleys without time pressure. The walk takes us along the Riva degli Schiavoni through St. Mark’s Square to Campo Santo Stefano. At the north-western end of the representative square is the Bar all’Angolo. Here you will not only find good coffee, but also fine filled croissants and delicious tramezzini.

You can’t do it without looking at the map. The winding system of canals, bridges and narrow alleys overwhelms my otherwise well-functioning sense of direction. As the morning progresses, the crowds in the “Calles” also increase. However, you can avoid this by avoiding the signposted main routes between St. Mark’s Square, the Rialto Bridge and the train station.

Saturday, 1:00 pm: Lunch time at Al Covo

Around noon, we make the bow stroke from the areas near the Grand Canal back to the area around our hotel. Here, between the canals “Rio de la Pleta” and “Reio de la Ca’ en Duo”, there is a high density of good and at the same time (by Venetian standards) inexpensive restaurants with high-quality cuisine. One of them is the Ristorante Al Covo.

Saturday 3:00 p.m.: Castello & Biennale di Venezia

After lunch, we continue our walk towards the “Castello” district. For me, this is one of the most charming and relaxed neighborhoods in Venice. As soon as you approach the Biennale grounds around the Arsenale shipyard, the hustle and bustle increases again.

Our destination: the Giardini della Biennale. Here you will find the 28 national pavilions with their respective national exhibitions. If you want to take a look at every single exhibition of the national pavilions in detail, you should bring a lot of time (and nerves) with you. For me, there were too many people in the exhibition rooms, despite the limited quantities, so that despite the exciting theme of this year’s Architecture Biennale, we only visited the exhibitions in fast forward.

Tip: If you are planning a visit to the Biennale di Venezia, you can buy tickets online in advance. Cost of a combined ticket (1 entry Giardini and 1 entry Arsenale): 25 euros. For more information on the prizes and exhibitions, visit the Biennale’s official website

Saturday, 6:00 p.m.: Venice Postcard Motifs & Michelin-starred cuisine

Just in time for sunset, we are back on the Riva degli Schiavoni and let the magic of the darkening lagoon city work its magic on us.

For tonight we have reserved a table at Ristorante Quadri. Located directly on St. Mark’s Square and awarded a Michelin star, the Quadri is considered one of the top addresses in the city. Our expectations were correspondingly high. Especially since the owners Massimiliano Alajmo and his brother Raffaele run another restaurant in neighbouring Padua – which has been awarded three stars.

However, the four-course menu, which is based on a sharing concept and is made up of various individual components (there are several small dishes per course), did not knock our socks off. Our points of criticism: No consistent sharing, the food gets cold (you could fix it with rechaud candles on the table, for example) and in a cross-comparison with other Italian star restaurants, we missed the sophistication at least with the second and third course. The very fine dessert, on the other hand, was able to soothe our minds a bit.

Sunday, 09:30 a.m.: Detour to the neighboring island of Murano

The next morning we navigate through the maze of alleys in a more targeted manner than the day before. After a day trip to Burano in 2012, this time we want to head for the neighboring island of Murano. Before we sail over from the F.Te Nove “C” jetty, we treat ourselves to a Doppio and a cappuccino in the sunshine at the Art Café Venezia on Campo Santa Maria Nova after an obligatory photo stop at the Rialto Bridge. Splendid!

In Murano, the traditional art of glassmaking is omnipresent. We get off at «Murano Colonna» and stroll from there along the canal towards Ponte Longo. From here it is not far to the Museo del Vetro. In my opinion, the museum on the history of glassmaking could be a bit more didactically structured. In fact, you can look at beautiful glass art here and read background information in two or three places. But that’s about it. But while you’re here, take a quick look at the Basilica dei Santi Maria e Donato – one of the oldest churches in the lagoon – and stop for a refreshment at the recommended restaurant Vetri.

Sunday, 4:00 p.m.: Aperitivo o’clock

For the way back from Murano to Venice, we opt for a slightly longer boat trip with line 4.2 around the Castello district to Arsenale. For the cost of the regular vaporetto ticket (7.50 euros), you get a small sightseeing tour around the city center of Venice.

Back at our hotel, we enjoy an aperitif in the hotel bar, located directly on the waterfront, including the typical Venice cicchetti (comparable to the Spanish tapas). You can get the Apérol Spritz cheaper elsewhere in Venice, but the location in front of the Ca’ di Dio is unbeatably relaxed.

Sunday, 6:00 p.m.: Evening walk through Dorsoduro

Shortly before sunset, we set off towards Dorsoduro. Located southeast of the Grand Canal, the district is the university district of Venice. Accordingly, there are numerous cheaper restaurants, bars and owner-managed shops here. The district around the Ponte dei Pugni is particularly photogenic. The Osteria of the same name, right next to the bridge, is also a great (and cheaper than Ca’ di Dio) alternative for an aperitif including delicious-looking cicchetti.

Once over the Ponte dei Pugni and you are already in the middle of Campo Santa Margherita. Somewhat inconspicuously on the edge of the square is the Garden Bistrot. Contrary to the French-sounding name, classic Italian market cuisine is served here. And with surprisingly good quality. If you prefer something sweet, you can stop at the Gelateria il Doge on the way back. The “Crema del Doge” variety has addictive potential! With an ice cream in hand, the way back from the Dorsoduro district via the Ponte dell’Accademia back to the hotel is much faster than without. And once again, we take a classic postcard motif of Venice with us as a souvenir “on the go”.

Monday, 09:30 a.m.: Cozy start to the week in the Cannaregio district

Monday morning – instead of going to the office, the way leads us once again along the canals of Venice on the third day of sightseeing. Today we want to take a closer look at the Cannaregio district in the northwest of the lagoon city. In this neighbourhood, the contrasts between the Venice of the locals and that of the tourists are obvious. On the one hand, the heavily frequented “Strada Nova” runs through here, connecting the station with the Rialto Bridge and St. Mark’s Square. On the other hand, it is the district where most Venetians still live and work. So the guests in the hip coffee specialty shop Torrefazione Cannaregio are also a colorful mix of tourists and locals, who treat themselves to a short break in the morning sun.

And here, too, follow the canals, cross bridges, marvel at pretty facades and discover pretty corners.

Monday, 1:00 p.m.: Venetian Slow Food Delight

To Cannaregio and back to Castello Shaggy makes you hungry. For lunch, I secured a table at Ristorante CoVino via online reservation. The small, hidden restaurant with just six tables, run by a crew of women, is a hot tip for Slow Food fans. At lunchtime, you can choose between a three- or four-course, freshly cooked menu (optionally with wine accompaniment) at an absolutely fair price. My culinary Venice highlight.

Monday, 3:00 p.m.: Bird’s eye view over Venice

Finally, we saved a sight that remained in our ambivalent memories during our last visit. At that time, we had made the detour to the bell tower of the Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore with a camera without a memory card. Well, stupid run. This time, we make sure twice that everything is in the green zone when it comes to battery and storage space.

The viewing platform, which can be reached by lift, is not an insider tip, but it is much less frequented than the St. Mark’s Tower. We only have to wait 10 minutes late on Monday afternoon until we can take the lift up. By the way, the basilica is currently home to one of Not Vital’s Houses to watch the sunset.

Entrance fee to the bell tower: 6 euros | For more information and opening hours, see Chiesa di San Marco Maggiore

Monday, 5:00 p.m.: Homeward

After three sun-drenched October days, it’s time to head back home. By train. Direct, convenient and oh yes: the “to-do list” of the working week is already waiting impatiently to be tackled during the journey home.

Practical tips for your trip to Venice

If you’re traveling to Venice during the winter months, it’s worth packing waterproof shoes (ideally rain boots). And if you are planning a city trip to Venice next year, then find out in advance about the status of the implementation of the tourism-regulating measures. After a pilot operation in 2018, Venice is now planning to definitively allow access to the city only after prior reservation and payment of an entrance fee from spring 2022. At present, however, the exact control mechanism and the costs are still open.