Authentic Dolce Vita in Mantua

They still exist, these well-kept travel secrets. There is no other way to explain how I roamed alone through the alleys of Mantua on a sunny Thursday. This sleepy town south of Lake Garda is not yet overrun by hordes of tourists. No, quite the opposite. Here you can eat a gelati between wildly gesticulating locals. Or stand alone in the Romanesque cathedral and admire the ceiling paintings for hours. No one pushes, no one pushes, no one disturbs the soothing silence. The same applies to the main street, which is reminiscent of Bern and Bolzano with its arcades, where one small shop follows the other and turns shopping into a cultural experience.

Since 2008, Mantua, together with Sabbioneta, has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Rich in history and important centres of the Italian Renaissance, they still enchant today with architectural treasures. I’m not a museum-goer and so I explored all corners of the city on foot and marveled at the magnificent buildings from the outside. Highlights are the Palazzo Ducale and the associated Castello San Giorgio, the cathedral and the 16th-century Villa Palazzo Te in the eastern area.

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There is no shortage of secluded corners in Mantua either. Surrounded on three sides by lakes, spacious shore areas invite you to linger. The view is not always first-class, because on the opposite side of the lakes there are large industrial areas. The city is one of the largest transshipment points for goods from the Po Valley. Nevertheless, I spent my lunch break with a “pizza to go” on a bench under the gnarled avenue trees.

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The most beautiful squares of the city are located along the “Rio”, a canal that runs from east to west through the old town. Behind the Giardini di San Domenico is the small Gelateria Giavazzi (Via Pescheria 30). The selection is limited to a few varieties, which are 100% homemade and taste phenomenal. Three balls are available for 2.50 euros. What a feast!

So shhh Keep this secret so that Mantua remains a wonderfully authentic small town for a long time to come.

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By the way, my trip to Mantua was a day trip from Milan. The train ride with the Tren Norte from Milano Centrale to Mantova (you have to enter this on trenitalia to find the station ;)) takes about 1.50 hours and offers insights into the Po Valley. A city trip could also easily be combined with a visit to Lake Garda and/or Verona. Verona is just 45 kilometres away or 45 minutes by regional train.

Note: My trip through Lombardy took place as part of the #blogville project and was supported by the Regione Lombardia – thank you very much for this. As always, my readers can be sure that I always represent my views and enthusiasm here.

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