Banff – things to do and see in winter

First stop: Banff. After a sleepless night – thanks to jet lag – in Calgary, I make my way towards Banff National Park with the onset of dusk. It is interesting to know that this national park was established in 1885 due to the discovery of hot springs in the course of the construction of the Canadian Pacific Railway, making it the oldest national park in Canada. For the almost 125 kilometers from Banff to Calgary I need about 1.5 hours. In the meantime, I regret that I am traveling without a co-pilot, because the backdrop of the Rocky Mountains towering up in front of me in the light of the morning sun would be worth a picture or two. Unfortunately, there are only a few rest stops along this section of the Trans-Canada Highway and so I decide against experimenting with the camera for the sake of road safety. Shortly after Canmore, which by the way is also worth a stop, the national park begins. If you want to get in, you first have to buy an “entrance ticket”. This costs 9.80 Canadian dollars (CAD) per adult per day. If you are in the park for more than six days, you can buy a so-called Annual Discovery Pass (67.70 CAD). This includes admission to a total of 27 national parks and 77 so-called National Historic Sites. Banff itself is the largest town within Banff National Park and has been allowed to call itself a small town since 1990. As the main street, Banff Avenue leads through the small town with the mighty Cascade Mountain in the background.

Active in the snow

Banff is not only a tourist magnet in the summer, but also attracts outdoor enthusiasts from all over the world in the winter. The small town is an ideal base from which to explore the numerous winter sports activities and the three ski resorts in Banff National Park – Ski Big 3. My stay overlaps with the so-called Reading Week, the Canadian version of Spring Break and accordingly Banff is teeming with young people. Good vibes guaranteed.

Sulphur Mountain – Walk with a View

To get an overall view of the region, I first head to the Banff Gondola, which is located just above the city. By the way, you can safely leave your car at home in Banff. The public transport system here consists of hybrid buses (roam banff local service) that go to all major sights. A one-way ticket costs CAD 2 and a day ticket costs CAD 5. If you visit the Canadian Rockies in winter, you will benefit significantly from the much lower number of visitors compared to the summer months. If you have to fight your way through numerous crowds of tourists from tour buses at the Banff Gondola in summer, there is a yawning emptiness here in winter. From the top there is a great view over Banff, and the Bow Valley to Lake Minnewanka.

Mount Norquay – the local ski resort

Just 15 minutes from Banff is Mount Norquay, Ski Big 3’s smallest ski area. If you don’t have your own car, you can reach the ski area by ski bus, which runs every hour. The ski area itself is relatively small, with a total of four chairlifts, making it ideal for spending the morning on the mountain and dedicating the afternoon to other activities. What is special is that in Mount Norquay the difficulty of the slopes is tied to the lifts. This means that the beginner slopes are located around the two lifts “Spirit” and “Cascade”. The “Mystic Express” opens up the slopes for advanced skiers and the “North America Chairlift” is for experts only. Well, I wasn’t put off by the sign with exactly this hint, because there is the most beautiful view from the mountain station of this chairlift, but afterwards I had to realize that icy mogul slopes are definitely not one of my strengths. After what felt like an eternity and with a style note far below zero, I finally made it down safely. The all-inclusive day pass costs 75 CAD for adults, which I think is a considerable price for the size of the ski area. However, it is worth mentioning that 2-, 3- and 4-hour tickets can also be purchased for a discounted price (2 hours from 43 CAD). Tubing is included in the All Inclusive Pass. I can also strongly recommend trying it out. It’s super fun. Cheering factor high!

Johnston Canyon – Walking on ice

Johnston Canyon is located on the Bow Valley Highway northwest of Banff. You can either explore the canyon on your own (free of charge) or visit with a local tour operator such as Discover Banff Tours. It is important to know that the canyon is icy in winter. This means that good footwear, including ice cleats, are mandatory. Highlights in the canyon are the two frozen waterfalls – lower and upper falls. I myself was on the road with Discover Banff Tours, where eleven of us hiked the approximately 3 km up to the upper falls with a hiking guide. The ice tunnels are provided directly by the tour operator and on the way the guides tell funny anecdotes and interesting facts about the canyon. For those who like it extreme: at the 30 m high upper falls you can also go ice climbing. Corresponding tours are also offered.

With six dog strengths through the Spray Valley

Not all winter sports activities are permitted within the national park. Heliskiing and snowmobile tours, for example, can only be done outside the national park. Dog sledding is mainly carried out in the areas on the outskirts of the national park. A popular spot for dog sledding is Spray Valley, which is located south of Banff near Canmore and has Provincial Park status. The valley is very popular as a backdrop for Hollywood films. Brokeback Mountain was filmed here and currently you can catch a glimpse of the film set of Leonardo DiCaprio’s “The Revenant” on the drive to the lakes. For myself, this is a little dream come true: a dog sled ride through the snowy landscape of the Rockies. What an experience! Due to the unusually warm temperatures for this time of year, only 10 km of the more than 100 km of trails that are usually available for such tours are usable. It’s still fun. To the huskies and me! They know exactly when it starts and on the command “Hike” it’s off to the post. During the ride, however, the dogs also want to be motivated regularly and every now and then one of them turns his head critically to us and waits for an enthusiastic “Good dog! Good puppie!”. There are various dog sledding companies. I myself was on the road for two hours with Snowy Owl Sled Dog Tour. On Twitter, Martin also recommended Mad Dog to me.

Après-Ski Programm

It’s worth setting aside some “free time” for Banff himself. On the one hand, the numerous outdoor shops along Banff Avenue entice you to an intense shopping frenzy. Yes, don’t buy outdoor clothes in Switzerland shortly before. This hurts the wallet too much considering the Canadian prices. To give just one example: I could have had my North Face jacket, which I bought in Laax at the beginning of the season, at The North Face Store on Banff Avenue for 50% off. Well. In contrast to the other Canadian provinces, Alberta does not have a Provincial Sales Tax and so only 5% Goods and Service Tax is added to the signposted price. So bargains are quite possible here.

In addition to shopping, a visit to the Cave & Basin National Historic Site is a must. This is the birthplace of Canada’s national parks. Here, employees of the Canadian Pacific Railway discovered hot springs, which subsequently led to a conflict of use, which led to the creation of Banff National Park. There is no longer bathing in the grotto filled with sulphur fumes, but instead the history and development of Canada’s national parks is conveyed in an interactive way.

Today, the bathing meeting point is not far from the Banff Gondola just above the city in the Upper Hot Springs. Popular with locals and tourists alike – especially after a freezing cold winter’s day. You will definitely be warmed up in the almost 40° hot water. Personally, it was too crowded and too stuffy for me. The infrastructure has stalled somewhere in the 60s and could use a refresh. Admission costs CAD 7.30 for adults and beach towels can be rented for CAD 1.90.

Worth a detour is the Whyte Museum of the Canadian Rockies, which is within walking distance of Banff Avenue. The museum presents photographic works about the Canadian Rockies in temporary exhibitions and focuses on the history of tourism development. The current exhibition with pictures by Bryon Harmon about his expedition to the Columbia Icefield is absolutely worth seeing.

Postcard Photo Spots

Would you like to photograph the typical postcard motifs yourself? No problem. You shouldn’t miss the following two photo spots.

Bow River Trail

The most photogenic part of the Bow River Trail starts at Banff Avenue Bridge. This is followed shortly by a pedestrian bridge over the Bow River, which has won an award for its architectural integration into the landscape. If you want to follow the Bow River Trail, stay on the northern side of the river and climb slightly uphill along a cliff. After a few minutes, the legendary The Fairmont Banff Springs comes into view. The origins of the hotel date back to the pioneering work of railway construction. Nowadays, the hotel enjoys a popular status among numerous celebrities. The best place for celebrity watching is the spa. Leonardo DiCaprio also spent the night here during filming. Another highlight is the Bow Falls, which are also located at the level of the Banff Spring Hotel.

Vermilion Lakes

A magical place, especially in the evenings, is the Vermilion Lakes, located northwest of Banff. By car, the journey takes less than five minutes. With a bit of luck in the weather, you can capture beautiful reflections of the imposing Mount Rundle. At the same time, there is also the chance to spot a moose or bear (in the summer months).

Restaurants in Banff

Last but not least, all that remains for me to mention is that Banff is also an excellent place to dine. Most of the restaurants are located in the quadrangle between Wolf, Bear, Caribou and Banff Streets. In the late afternoon, the young guard likes to meet at Eddie Burger + Bar. In addition to good burgers, there are also daily specials at attractive prices. Another appetizer hotspot is The Block Kitchen + Bar. My tip here: the Grilled Scallops. The best pizza, on the other hand, is at the Bear Street Tavern. I ordered “The Bison” and was blown away by the combination with bison meat and edamame. The lady next to me was irritated, who actually asked me why I eat my pizza with a fork and knife. Deeply impressed, she whispered to her boyfriend “she’s from Switzerland and she eats Pizza with a fork and knife. It’s so classy”. I still have to grin now. If you prefer to eat something dignified, you can choose the side entrance and end up at The Bison. One of the best restaurants in town.

For a short coffee stop in between, the local Australians (of which there are many) swear by the Whitebark Café on the ground floor of the Banff Aspen Lodge. For dangerously good cheesecakes, head to Evelyn’s Coffee Bar.

I stayed at the Fox Hotel & Suites, about a 10-minute walk from the center of Banff. The suites are equipped with a kitchenette and microwave. A good starting point to start an adventurous day relaxed.

This trip was supported by Travel Alberta and Canusa – thank you very much! As always, my readers can be sure that I always represent my views and enthusiasm.