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The heart of the medina of Marrakech beats most intensely on the Djemaa el Fna. During the day, the hustle and bustle on the central market square still seems clear. Occasionally, market traders advertise their wares and henna tattoo painters vie for the favor of the tourists. A welcome refreshment is the freshly squeezed orange juice that is available on the square.

As soon as the sun disappears behind the horizon, the square slowly fills with life. The nightly spectacle is best observed from one of the numerous rooftop terraces around the Djemaa el Fna. Probably the best view of the action can be found from the terrace of Le Grand Balcon Café Glacier. We head for the café in the early evening. You can gain access by buying a mint tea or a soft drink. Afterwards, it takes some strategic skill to get hold of one of the coveted tables directly on the railing. The balcony is also a popular stop for tour guides with larger groups. That’s why at first glance it usually seems jam-packed. However, while the groups usually hurry on to the next stop, the number of guests who stay longer on the balcony is limited. After a short wait in the second row of tables, we grab a vacant corner table directly at the railing.

While Marrakech slowly darkens, we watch the hustle and bustle on the square. We don’t get bored. Our gaze jumps from market women fighting over the same market place and getting violent, to a troupe of drumming black Africans who pose for a selfie with passing tourists at regular intervals, to a circular crowd of people in which a boxing match is taking place, to entertaining jugglers… Viewed from a bird’s eye view, the Djemaa el Fna forms an image that exudes a unique oriental atmosphere.

I could have sat there at the railing all night fascinated and I wouldn’t have gotten bored. The whole hustle and bustle is accompanied by a babble of voices and scraps of music from all directions. The heartbeat rhythm, so to speak. Sometimes beating faster, briefly interrupted by loud shouts in between, and rarely – as if the place needed a short breather – barely perceptible.

 

 

 

 

Further insights and tips about “the Square of the Dead” can be found at Good Morning World, among others. Also worth reading is Elias Canetti’s travel record “The Voices of Marrakech”. The book is a collection of fragmentary memorabilia and describes various atmospheric moods of the city. In this sense, my three hours on the roof of Le Grad Balcon Café Glacier are also a snapshot of the fascinating Marrakech.

Note: My trip to Marrakech was supported by La Mamounia – thank you very much for this. As always, my readers can be sure that I always represent my views and enthusiasm here.