Dubrovnik at blue hour

Those who, in contrast to cruise tourists, stay longer than half a day in Dubrovnik, have a clear advantage. The day can be planned in such a way that everyday hustle and bustle can be skilfully avoided. Early risers are rewarded with postcard motifs for sunrise and then walk over the city wall before the big rush. Around nine o’clock in the morning it is already busier. Here it is recommended to leave the old town and explore the surroundings. For example, the island of Lokrum, the charming coastal town of Cavtat or the “European Great Wall” in Ston are tempting.

Visit to the Franciscan Monastery in the Old Town of Dubrovnik

Around four o’clock in the afternoon we return to the city. All hell breaks loose in front of the Pile. The cruise passengers have to get back on their ships and look for the right car. We walk past it, pass the city gate and turn left shortly after. The first stop of our early evening tour of the old town is at the Franciscan monastery. Here, next to the cloister, pharmacy history was written. Ljekarna Male Braće Pharmacy is the oldest pharmacy in Europe that is still in operation.

With the cable car to the sunset

After an espresso stop at Café Bistro Orlando right on the Stradun, we make our way towards Berg Srd. Through the narrow cross streets, past idyllically situated piazzas, we reach the cable car station after a short walk. The new cable car was opened in 2010. Swiss cable car companies and their experts played a key role in this. Of course, our trained eye immediately spotted the cowbell hanging on the wall. The ticket for the trip costs 80 kuna and can be purchased directly on the spot. 5 minutes later we are already standing on the almost 400 meter high Srd and look down on the tiny-seeming compact old town of Dubrovnik. From up here there is a particularly beautiful view of the sunset. Behind us, the peaks of Bosnia-Herzegovina shimmer reddish and in front of us, the Adriatic Sea glows deep blue in the glow of the last rays of sunshine. The detour to watch the sunset on Dubrovnik’s “local mountain” is definitely worth it in good weather.

With the onset of dusk, we are slowly drawn back to the old town. But until we get back down, patience is required. The wind has steadily increased during the sunset and is delaying the departure of the cable car with its strong gusts. When he suddenly runs out of breath for a moment, we take advantage of the windless minutes and let ourselves be gondola down. In an emergency, we would have come down on the narrow road on foot. In the meantime, the old town has switched on all the lights and enchants me with a beautifully coordinated lighting concept. Particularly magnificent in the illumination along the Stradun, at the Cathedral, at the Prince’s Palace and at the Sponza Palace. But the old harbour facility also captivates with its very own charm shortly before dark.

Restaurants in Dubrovnik

Overwhelmed by so many great impressions, my stomach reports with a slight feeling of hunger. Time to savour the state of emergency of the “Good Food Festival“. The festival around local delicacies took place for the first time this year and is expected to become an established part of Dubrovnik’s festival program in the long term. In addition to various stalls and activities, selected restaurants will also offer a three-course festival menu for 100 kuna (equivalent to around 15 CHF) during the festival. When I saw the prices, my eyes almost jumped out of my head, because I simply couldn’t believe that you get a gourmet menu at such a fabulously low price.

On the first evening we had an excellent dinner in the modern ambience of the relatively new restaurant Stara Loza.

On the second day, we ended up in the simple restaurant Rozario, which is barely a stone’s throw away from the old port and is still a little insider tip thanks to its somewhat hidden location. In addition to the Good Food Festival menus, there is also a menu for those with a sweet tooth. Namely, those restaurants that have a special cake à la “style of the house” on offer are noted on it. The one from the Rozario restaurant tasted slightly of bitter oranges and was surprisingly refreshing.

On the last evening I tried an extraordinary burger with sweet potato chips in the friendly and purely vegetarian restaurant Nishta. If you can do without meat, I can warmly recommend this small restaurant.

All the restaurants we visited are located on Prijeko Street. This street is the restaurant mile of Dubrovnik and is located a cross street behind the Stradun. One last tip: ignore those restaurants where people are already talking to you as you walk by and you almost get the menu pressed into your hand. These are the tourist traps ;)

After so many impressions, we fell into bed dog-tired in the evening. We stayed at the Hilton Imperial just outside the city walls at the Pile. Ideally located to explore the old town extensively, but also to make excursions in the region (as the bus stops are right next door and the hotel has a car park).

Well, could I make you Dubrovnik “happy”?

Note: My trip to Dubrovnik was supported by the Croatian National Tourist Board – thank you very much for this. As always, my readers can be sure that I always represent my views and enthusiasm here.