Hike & Dine in Le Noirmont: from the Freibergen to the Doubs and back

How about an enjoyable short break in the Franches-Montagnes? Admittedly, you probably wouldn’t guess right away that the slightly sleepy-looking Le Noirmont is a stronghold for gourmets. But contrary to all prejudices, not far from the French border, the high art of cooking is deeply rooted. For 38 years, star chef George Wenger delighted guests from all over the world in his restaurant right next to Le Noirmont train station.

At the beginning of 2019, Jérémy Desbraux followed in his footsteps. George Wenger passed on the reins due to his age and Jérémy Desbraux – until then number 2 in Crissier (Restaurant de l’Hôtel de Ville) – seized the opportunity to set up his own business. The courage to swap the cosmopolitan Lake Geneva region for a Jura village has paid off. Barely a year “in office”, the Michelin Guide honored his work with two stars in February 2020.

And since we had to postpone our foodie trip to Annecy, which was originally planned before Easter, to a later date, the Maison Wenger in Le Noirmont seemed to us to be a worthy replacement candidate. The 2-star restaurant also has five hotel rooms – perfect for those who not only want to treat themselves to a fine dinner, but also want to see something of the region.

From the Franches-Montagnes to the Doubs

Le Noirmont is located between the Franches-Montagnes plateau – a paradise for all horse lovers – and the Doubs Regional Nature Park, which encompasses the canyon-like landscape around the border river Doubs. A circular hike starts at Le Noirmont train station, which leads from the high plateau down to the Doubs and back. “Des Franches-Montagnes au Doubs” is characterised by an extremely entertaining route – for Jura hikes – as well as some adventurous sections. It is recommended to start the route clockwise and descend towards La Goule.

We also follow the secluded forest path, which leads us down into the gorgeous landscape of the Doubs with a pleasant gradient in many hairpin bends. We are on the road early and apart from us there is no one else in this part of the forest – and so even a chamois that crosses our path does not let itself be disturbed and after a short scrutinizing glance in our direction continues to devote itself to the lush green young tree shoots.

At La Goule, our hiking trail joins the “Au Fil du Doubs“. We completed a large part of this multi-day hike, which leads in four stages from Les Brenets to St. Ursanne, four years ago. And even though I complete the section along the Doubs for the second time this time, the river immediately casts a spell over me. This silence – these thousand shades of green – simply magical!

On adventurous paths to the ruins of the Spiegelberg

We follow the banks of the Doubs for almost three kilometres until the hiking trail signs at Le Theusseret lead us back up towards the Franches-Montagnes. The ascent is signposted as a mountain hiking trail and for good reason – it soon becomes adventurous by Jura standards. The hiking trail runs below the rock ridge “Les Sommêtres” – a popular climbing spot. Even on the hiking trail, you are not spared from tackling with your hands. Once the steep part in the lower third, including the three short ladders, has been mastered, the worst is overcome. Before we can enjoy the breezy view from the Sommêtre ridge, however, we still have to sweat a bit. The difference in altitude of 500 meters between Doubs and Franches-Montagnes is directly felt here.

Once at the top, it’s not far to the Spiegelberg ruins. Only a few remains of the castle complex, which was built in the 14th century, are still visible today. Nevertheless, the ruins of Spiegelberg are a popular destination due to the great panoramic view. And you can even spend the night on the grounds of the medieval fortress – the Refuge des Sommêtres (built by the Groupe d’Alpinistes des Franches-Montagnes) sleeps seven.

From here we are back at Le Noirmont train station in just under 45 minutes – so if the whole round is too strenuous for you, you can simply head straight for the ruins.

Maison Wenger: 2-star indulgence in Le Noirmont

After the sporty part of the day, we will have a gourmet experience at Maison Wenger. While a 4-course menu is offered for 125 CHF at lunchtime, the Menu Decouvert (165 CHF) and the Menu Dégustation (in 7 or 9 courses for 230 CHF/265 CHF) as well as a selection of seasonal à la carte dishes are available in the evening. What I appreciate about Jérémy Desbraux’s menu design is the seasonal reference of the dishes. The spring menu includes asparagus from Valais, rhubarb and strawberries. I am not enthusiastic about frog legs – not primarily because of the taste, but because wild-caught animals are imported into Switzerland (in our country, the wild-caught of potentially endangered amphibians is prohibited).

But that’s the only blemish on the map. Jérémy Desbraux manages to stage the individual products in a sophisticated way. Both in terms of taste and appearance, an absolutely harmonious menu. I am particularly fond of the “declination of rhubarb”; with the pleasantly lingering acidity, the pre-dessert meets my taste exactly.

And what kind of drink do you round off an evening of enjoyment in the Jura? That’s right – Damassine! After this noble final bouquet, we are happy that our bed is only two floors above the restaurant in a generously sized junior suite. I would have been satisfied with one of the three slightly cheaper double rooms, but it was not so easy to get a time slot with free capacities, and in the end I was too curious about the kitchen to put this detour on the back burner. And was it worth it? Absolutely! Fine dining par excellence.

Practical tips for your trip to Le Noirmont

The route of our circular hike from Le Noirmont down to the Doubs and via Arête des Sommêtres back to the starting point can be found on the map below. The section from Le Theusseret up to the ruins of Spiegelberg is designated as a mountain hiking trail (T2/T3) up to Chez le Bôle – the remaining sections are normal hiking trails (T1). In two places, the steep terrain has to be overcome by means of ladders. The distance of the circular hike is a good 14 kilometres. The almost 750 metres of altitude uphill fall in the second section of the route – from the Doubs up into the Franches-Montagnes. It took us just under 4.30 hours for the tour, including a short break at the Refuge des Sommêtres.

Circular hike Le Noirmont – Doubs – return: Key points of our tour

Starting point	Bahnhof Le Noirmont
Length	14.4 kilometers
Elevation gain	↗ 749 m 749 m ↘
Duration	4:30 p.m.
Destination	Bahnhof Le Noirmont

For more tips and suggestions on what to do around Le Noirmont, check out this blog post: 5 places to visit in the Jura