Hiking in the Muotathal: from Schwyz to the Bödmeren jungle reserve
«Sheet metal piles in the Klöntal», «everything wandered through the Alpstein». We were able to read these and similar headlines in various media around Ascension Day and Pentecost. A large part of us humans obviously seem to feel comfortable in masses and can not be deterred from heading for popular excursion destinations despite the predictable crowds.
Personally, I don’t like this herd instinct. And not just since “social distancing” crept into our vocabulary. Accordingly, I am always a bit surprised how it can come to this at all. We were also out and about at Pentecost – and not so far away from a place that was recently dubbed the “anthill” of Schwyz due to the large crowds. However, we once again turned our backs on Gross Mythen and set off from Schwyz on a 2-day hike through the Muotathal. A tour consisting of a leisurely introductory stage, a fantastic stop at a country inn and a multifaceted round through a primeval forest-like spruce and pine forest in the middle of a rugged karst area – if that doesn’t awaken the wanderlust!
On the Pragel Pass trail from Schwyz to the Muotathal
The starting point of our Muotathal hiking weekend is the village centre of Schwyz. This is where the first stage of the Pragel Pass Trail starts, which leads from Schwyz to Glarus in a total of three stages.
We follow the hiking trail through the centre of Schwyz and marvel at the myths that watch over the tranquil cantonal capital like two rock pyramids. At some point I will also tackle the summit of the Great Mythen – but not as a day trip on a wonderfully sunny holiday – that much is clear. The hiking trail soon leads us out of the residential area into the extensive alluvial plain. It goes cross-country over wonderfully tree-covered fields and pastures towards Muota. We cross the river for the first time at the Ibach industrial area and then follow a road with little traffic up the valley flanks to Oberschönenbuch. The further we walk towards Muotathal, the closer the two sides of the valley get to each other.
At the famous Suvorov Bridge, we pass the narrow passage between Gibelhorn and Stoos. After the valley station of the Stossbahn, the viewing angle opens up again. From here, the Pragel Pass Trail runs as a leisurely valley hiking trail along the banks of the Muota to Muotathal. While the village is still almost an hour’s walk away, we are already on the territory of the municipality of Muotathal. It is one of the ten largest municipalities in Switzerland and covers the entire valley landscape up to the Glarus cantonal border.
The following section of the trail is dedicated to the well-known dry humour of the Muotathal people with 25 stations. The family-friendly “Joke Hiking Trail” offers 7.5 kilometres of entertaining hiking fun.
Stage stop at the Landgasthof Adler in Ried
Our stage destination is halfway between the Stoss funicular and the village centre of Muotathal. At Ried, Kapellmatt we cross the Muota for the fourth time this day and hike purposefully to the main road. Here, directly on the road, is the Landgasthof Adler – at first glance not an incredibly inviting building. I ask myself, was the road here first, or the country inn?
A glance at the archive shows that a stately Landamman house was already being built long before the wide main street. The first mention of a building on this site appears in writings from the early 17th century. And while the route for motorized traffic later had to fit in between the country inn and the church, it led to a clear caesura.
But at Landgasthof Adler you shouldn’t be fooled by the first impression. For 20 years, the Jann family has been running the Adler as a family business, relying on close cooperation with local producers. The GaultMillau restaurant guide lists the Landgasthof Adler with 16 points – deserved, in our opinion! Meals are served in three rustic parlours on the ground floor. The specialities of the house include gitzi and asparagus dishes in spring, trout from the Muota in summer and game dishes in autumn. The seasonal, homemade ice cream creations are also very fine. Nowhere have strawberries tasted so good to me (Schwyzer) as in combination with the homemade sour cream ice cream at the Landgasthof Adler.
The great thing about the Landgasthof Adler is that you can not only eat fantastic here, but there are also two double rooms available for guests on the top floor. The overnight stay costs 150 CHF including breakfast.
From Muotathal to the Bödmerenwald
After our stage stop in the Adler, we start the day more leisurely than usual. We have arranged to meet my parents for the second day of hiking in the Muotathal – they will also stop at the country inn in the evening and spend the night. With breakfast, the Jann family once again tops my expectations. On a slate plate, we are served fresh bread, butter, Muotathal cold cuts, fresh mountain cheese and two small bowls of yoghurt with fresh strawberries. No huge buffet, no tons of food – but a – for us – perfectly sized selection of really good products. I’m really excited!
Afterwards we pack up our things, clear the room and get into position at the bus stop directly opposite the Landgasthof Adler. This is where the bus stops, which runs from Schwyz to Muotathal Hölloch and with which my parents arrive today. Of course, we could also continue to follow the valley hiking trail from here to Muotathal – but since our planned round through the Bödmeren forest with starting point “Hölloch” already costs a proud 20 kilometres, we do without further additional loops at this point.
After a short bus ride, we reach the starting point of today’s tour in the “Stalden” district. Here the Pragel Pass road branches off and leads past the Hölloch uphill towards the pass crossing into Glarus. We also follow a section of the pass road, pass the entrance gate to the second longest cave system in Europe (over 200 kilometers of cave passages have been measured here so far – impressive, isn’t it?!) and tackle the first meters of altitude step by step.
The section along the road is definitely not the most attractive part of the day, but it is not too bad either, as the traffic is kept within a tolerable level. Shortly before Sturzegg, we branch off onto the mountain hiking trail and ascend via Unterfedli and Oberfedli across alpine pastures towards Gschwend. An entertaining ascent, which also offers some beautiful valley views. And yet somehow surprising for us: Apart from us, despite the late hour, no one seems to be on this section.
Multifaceted primeval forest trail Bödmeren
We don’t meet other people again until we turn into the “Bödmeren Primeval Forest Trail” near Obergschwend. The 10 km long circular hike leads in a varied up and down once around the primeval forest reserve Bödmeren. I was astonished that some families drive along the (uncomfortably narrow) Pragelpass road to Eigeliswald, park their car there and then tackle the Bödmeren jungle trail from there. Alternatively, there are also local taxi companies that offer “hiking bus rides” to the starting point in Eigeliswald on request. Either way – if you are good on foot and have nothing to complain about three additional hours of hiking, I recommend in any case to start the tour down in Stalden/Hölloch.
While we started the tour in bright sunshine in Muotathal below, the weather up here shows its changeable side. Not so tragic – the wild and romantic Bödmeren forest as well as the mosaic of karst rocks, windswept birches, pines and spruces are fascinating even when the sky is overcast. Along the way there are countless plants and mosses to discover.
The tour leads past the Roggenstöckli in the direction of Flösch, crosses alpine pastures and then leads again via karst area back to Obergschwend.
Via the “Gross Band” back to Muotathal
Most of the hikers we met on the way march back to the Eigeliswald car park at this point. On the other hand, almost six kilometres back to Hölloch await us. While I assumed that the highlight of the tour would be the Bödmeren primeval forest trail, I will soon be taught better. Shortly after Alp Untergschwend, the path climbs steeply again for a short time and leads us up to the “Gross Band”. A glance at the map shows that the hiking trail now leads along a length of almost 1.5 kilometres directly below an imposing rock ledge. The path is super maintained and additionally secured with ropes in very narrow places. Nevertheless, if you have trouble with sloping parts, you probably won’t feel very comfortable here. Everyone else can look forward to this final bouquet – for me the highlight of our big round through the Bödmeren primeval forest reserve.
After six incredibly varied hours of hiking, we are back in Hölloch. And while my parents get off at the Landgasthof Adler tonight and experience an enjoyable after-hike evening, this time we stay seated and drive home.
Practical tips for your hiking weekend in the Muotathal
Day 1: From Schwyz to Ried, Muotathal
The route of our first hike from Schwyz to Ried im Muotathal can be found on the following map. The starting point of this tour is at the “Schwyz Post” bus stop. From there, the hiking trail with a length of almost 10 kilometres leads over the alluvial plain of Schwyz into the Muotathal. Between Ibach and Fron there is an ascent of 200 meters in altitude. There is another short incline between the Suvorov bridge and the valley station of the Stossbahn – otherwise the path runs mostly flat on well-developed gravel paths that are almost entirely suitable for prams.
Day 2: Big tour on the Bödmeren primeval forest trail
As already written, the actual starting point of the Bödmeren Primeval Forest Trail in Eigeliswald is not directly accessible by public transport. We therefore opted for a tour variant starting in “Muotathal, Hölloch“. From there, the circular hike leads over a length of 20 kilometres via Obergschwend towards Bödmerenwald and back. The hiking trail climbs continuously in the first half – from Hölloch to the highest point, short for Flöscheggen, there are almost 1,100 meters of altitude to master. The tour is well signposted throughout. In the upper section, you can follow the green “Primeval Forest Path Bödmeren” signs. From Muotathal, Hölloch there are half-hourly bus connections to Schwyz.
More hiking ideas for the Muotathal
The hiking possibilities in the Muotathal are diverse. One of the classics is the second stage of the Pragel Pass trail from Muotathal over the Pragel Pass to the Klöntalersee. The historically important route over the Chinzig Pass to Biel in the Schächental valley is also varied. Another option is the route that my parents took on their second day of hiking – from Muotathal to the Lidernenhütte and then on via Alplersee to Sisikon.
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