Hiking and wondering in Madeira

Madeira makes hikers’ hearts beat faster. We would not have thought that such a tiny dot in the Atlantic Ocean would turn out to be such a diverse grab bag. Madeira’s water canals are famous, which have formed the basis of a sophisticated irrigation system for centuries. The narrow paths along the levadas are the best way to explore the green heart of the island. If you want to go high, you can tackle the three highest points of the island on the King’s Tour and scenic coastal walks are also provided. But hiking in Madeira is not just vain sunshine, but a fickle game with the clouds. Sometimes with more luck and sometimes with less luck. In the end, my hiking boots traveled back to Switzerland with me dripping wet. Boozy adventures guaranteed.

Ponta de São Lourenço – Hike to the eastern tip of Madeira

The easternmost tip of the island looks like a surrealistic lunar landscape and differs from the rest of the island in terms of landscape. Lush green is completely absent on the Ponta de São Lourenço. Here you hike over barren soils with a view of an imposing rocky backdrop. We drove to the starting point of the circular hike at the parking lot above the Baia d’Abra before sunrise and I can guarantee you that getting up early for this hike is worth it. With a view of the horizon slowly turning purple, we hike over hill and dale to the easternmost point of Madeira. The entire peninsula is a nature reserve, so you should not leave the signposted path.

If your stomach is rumbling after the hike, you can stop at the Beira Mar snack bar on the waterfront of the fishing village of Caniçal. Two coffees and two sweet pieces (for example a Pastel de Nata) are available here for less than 4 euros.

Duration of the circular hike: approx. 2.5 hours

Pico Ruivo – Hike to the roof of Madeira

In Madeira, it takes less than thirty minutes to go from the coast to almost 2,000 m above sea level, where an impressive mountain landscape is waiting to be discovered. The actual King’s Tour takes about three hours from Pico do Arieiro to the highest point of the island, Pico Ruivo at 1,862 m above sea level. A magnificent hike, where you should keep a close eye on the weather forecasts. While the sun is shining on the coast, the clouds usually cling stubbornly to the mountain flanks and so fog is a constant companion, at least at certain altitudes. The short route to the highest point of the island is ideal if the weather is unstable or on a short time budget. The hike from Achada do Teixieira up to Pico Ruivo takes just under an hour. The parking lot at Achada do Teixieira can be reached from Santana in about twenty minutes. From here, 300 meters of altitude are still missing to the summit.

We started moderately motivated in the thickest fog and followed the well-developed path with zero visibility. It seemed as if the clouds were dancing around the peaks. Fortunately, Peter was gracious to us and blew a blue hole free just in time for our arrival at the summit. What a great panorama. We leave time at the summit to let our gaze wander over the mountain ranges with their deep valleys to the ocean on the horizon.

Duration of the hike Achada do Teixeira to Pico Ruivo and back: about 2 hours

Counters – Klassiker in Ribeiro Frio

The walk to the “balcony” of Ribeiro Frio is one of the most popular destinations in Madeira. Justly. The short walk leaves nothing to be desired – levada, laurel forest and panoramic views. This is where the compact overall package is offered. On the way back to Funchal, we parked at the snack bar Faísca and started the hike from there (path is signposted). A classic is the stop at trout farming. But it also comes across as correspondingly touristy. We caught a quiet time in the late afternoon and didn’t meet anyone on the way. From the viewpoint there is a phenomenal view of the central mountains with the three highest points of the island in good weather. This view was reserved for us. But also the view towards the north coast with the striking eagle rock near Faial and Porto da Cruz justifies this short detour. A worthwhile stopover.

Duration round trip to the “balcony” of Ribeiro Frio: 45 minutes

25 Springs – Levada Walk in Rabaçal

I was particularly looking forward to the Paul da Serra plateau and the adjacent nature reserves with the ancient laurel forest (Laurisilva), which has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1999. Unfortunately, the weather up here threw a spanner in the works. Instead of admiring the far-reaching view over the plateau, which is reminiscent of Scotland, the rain lashed around our car and the surroundings were swallowed up by the fog. The 25-spring hike near Rabaçal was planned. Also a classic among Madeira’s levada walks. For 45 minutes we waited in our car and hoped for an improvement in the weather. But this time the clouds persisted. At some point the wait was too colorful for us and so we dared to go out into the bad weather equipped with rain jacket and umbrella.

If the weather had been good, we would have hiked the 30 minutes or so from the parking lot to the starting point of the tour at the Rabaçal forester’s lodge. So we took the shuttle bus (round trip 5 euros / runs the route every 20′). The trail first follows the Levada do Risco and then branches off to the left to the Levada das 25 Fontes. The path leads through the laurel forest, which may enchant us with its gnarled trees even in pouring rain. Sometimes the path is so narrow that crossing is hardly possible. That’s why it’s worth tackling the hike early and avoiding the days when there are a lot of guided tours (Tuesday / Thursday). Although we were already soaking wet at the fork in the road, we didn’t miss the opportunity to make the detour to the Risco waterfall. After all, this is a must for a visitor to Madeira.

We then dried our wet feet in the Taberna da Poncha near Serra de Água, where the locals also like to stop for a chat with friends. The high-proof national drink including peanuts costs 2 euros here. And the homemade lemonade is also great.

Duration: Circular hike from Rabaçal to the 25 springs incl. Risco about 3.5 hours (with shuttle about 2.5 hours)

Practical tips for hiking in Madeira

The official hiking trails are well signposted. Surefootedness is required on the narrow paths along the levadas, otherwise the paths are well developed. The following points should be considered:

• Even if it is a pleasant 26° degrees on the coast and the sun is shining, you should carry a sweater and rain protection in your luggage. The weather can change quickly and the higher you go, the cooler it gets. We had a refreshing 12° degrees on Pico Ruivo
• Good hiking boots are recommended for the partly sloping paths
• Some levada walks lead through tunnels – so take one flashlight (or a flashlight app and enough battery) per person
• Many hikes are designed as long-distance hikes (there are only a few circular hikes) – most places are accessible by public transport. As an alternative, a taxi is available (quite common).
• Detailed route descriptions for 50 hikes can be found in the Rother hiking guide Madeira – recommended reading
• You can find more hiking tips with route descriptions and maps here: Hiking Tours Madeira

Would you like to know more about Madeira? On Elsewhere by Kuoni you can find an overview of our road trip through the flower island with tips on the wild north coast and the sun-drenched south.

Note: We have travelled to Madeira in cooperation with Kuoni. As always, my readers can be sure that I always represent my views and enthusiasm.