Pure nature: 2-day snowshoe tour in Schanfigg

“Do I have everything with me?” Gloves, sunglasses, ski poles: handy. Lace up your hiking boots and pack your thermos. So far, everything seems ready for our first two-day snowshoe tour in Schanfigg. This weekend we set off to explore the side valleys of Arosa with snowshoes. The area between Langwies and the Fideriser Heuberge is considered a beautiful ski touring area and an insider tip among winter hikers and snowshoe hikers. Not only because of the panoramic plateau and the beautiful downhill slopes, but also because of the mountain pubs and ski huts.

Update 2020: unfortunately the mountain inn Pirigen is closed for a long time and you can therefore no longer stay there. As an alternative, I recommend hiking on the first day from Hochwang directly via the Blackter Fürggli to the Casanna ski house and spending the night there.

Snowshoe tour Schanfigg: Day #1 – Hochwang – Pirigen

Despite the mixed weather forecast, winter sports enthusiasts, holiday guests and day trippers crowd close together on the platform in Chur. The vast majority remains on the train until the final stop. In St. Peter-Molinis, two sprightly older ladies, three boys with snowboards and we – packed with touring backpacks and snowshoes – get off the train. From here you can take the regional bus up to the Hochwang ski area. I admit it, this area was a black spot on the map for me and therefore the small, family-run ski area was not a household name. Too bad, because what I saw in the short time made me want more. On this day, however, we only buy a single ride for the Fatschel-Triemel chairlift. After a look at our hiking boots and the words “so I know that you don’t take the T-bar lift at the top”, the gentleman in the ticket booth hands us the tickets with a wink. The first 350 meters of altitude are quickly overcome. Once at the top, we mount the snowshoes and trudge off following the winter hiking trail sign. For the first time we do a snowshoe tour that is not signposted throughout. To be on the safe side, we got the appropriate maps and studied the route beforehand. For the first thirty minutes, however, we walk along the groomed winter hiking trail to the Hochwang ski house. The nervousness about the following kilometers on unknown terrain keeps us from taking a break in the ski house. In retrospect, I regret my hurried progress and recommend you to stop buffing. The ski house is beautifully situated and attracts visitors with a small sun terrace.

We follow clearly visible snowshoe tracks uphill towards Muschgel. From there it continues over a plateau with a view of the Mattjisch Horn (a popular ski touring mountain) over the Arflinafurgga to the Astsershöreli. The magnificent view of the mountain peaks all around is clouded by a burgeoning feeling of hunger. “If only we had stopped for a moment!” You’re probably familiar with this: It’s hard to hike with a growling stomach. Despite preparing for the tour, we had underestimated the distance – or rather the time needed for it in the snow – and, above all – fatal mistake – had not packed an emergency supply. The motivation increases when the altitude difference is mastered at the Astserhöreli and we trudge downhill towards the stage destination Berggasthaus Pirigen. When we arrive at our destination, we sit down on the bench in front of the mountain inn, let the evening sun tickle our faces and – you guessed it – order a plate. And I’ll admit it: for the last few kilometers, this view pushed me forward.

The host couple Gaby and Andy Brownrigg-Hediger run the mountain inn Pirigen with a lot of passion and cordiality. In winter, the mountain inn is a day trip destination for winter hikers and a starting point for ski and snowshoe tours. Three rooms can accommodate a total of 12 people (all beds with duvets and pillows). Pirigen is known far and wide for its wonderful location far away from the hustle and bustle and for the good, fresh cuisine of Gaby and Andy Brownrigg-Hediger. Some people come up especially for the Pirigenrösti or the house speciality – the Beef ‘n’ Ale Beer Pie – and toboggan back to the valley after a fine meal. Fortunately, we don’t have to go anywhere today and move our place to the cozy room after sunset. The tiled stove radiates a pleasant warmth and Gaby serves us the homemade fondue for dinner. I was raved about the fondue in advance and the advance praise is absolutely justified. The perfect evening in a hut – including warm Chriesi stone bags from the tiled stove so that our toes don’t freeze off under the duvet.

Snowshoe tour Schanfigg: Day #2 – Pirigen – Fondei

The next morning the clouds have completely cleared. After a hearty breakfast, we tackle the second stage of our snowshoe tour. With a distance of just under 4 kilometres, today’s route from Berggasthaus Pirigen to Skihaus Casanna is significantly shorter than the one from the previous day with a good ten kilometres. To do this, you have to overcome 450 meters of altitude on the first two kilometers. From zero to a hundred. In contrast to the day before, I had adjusted well to the route and hiked bravely uphill. The friend – astonished by my forward thrust – began to pant in the meantime. And so we reached the Blackter Fürggli faster than expected.

Up here we pause for a moment and enjoy the view over the high valley of Fondei. The subsequent descent to the Berghaus Casanna elicited one or two cheers from me. It’s a pleasure to make fresh tracks in the deep snow with this beautiful panoramic view! The glorious weather lures us to the terrace of the Casanna ski house. A good decision! Hostess Carmen Menegon delights with her cuisine with regional specialties. On foot we would have a good 1.5 hours from here back to the valley to Langwies. It’s quicker with the toboggan, which the mountain inn lends to its guests. A fast-paced conclusion to our two-day tour, which took us through a dreamlike winter landscape. If you want to avoid the crowds on the ski slopes, you will find peace and pure nature between Hochwang and Fondei!

Packing for a snowshoe tour: practical tips

• I wear my tried-and-true onion look for snowshoe tours with Icebreaker underwear, an Icebreaker hooded jacket, down jacket and lightweight, wind-resistant softshell touring pants (until now I was on the road with normal ski pants, but was way too warm in them).
• In my backpack I have a rain jacket, dry spare clothes (underwear and t-shirt) and a hut sleeping bag as well as a quick-drying towel.
• If you are out and about in ski resorts off the beaten track, you should have avalanche protection equipment (avalanche transceiver), shovel and probe with you – or wear the avalanche transceiver switched on on the second layer of clothing. We rented our safety set from Transa (cost for 2 people for the weekend 100 CHF).
• Swisstopo provides online ski and snow tour maps for the whole of Switzerland (including information on slope inclination, wildlife sanctuaries and wildlife rest areas): Ski touring map
• Have enough liquid (I make honey-sweetened tea in a thermos flask) as well as something to nibble on (e.g. nuts or dark chocolate) in my backpack.
• Install a GPS tour app for your smartphone (e.g. from Schweiz Mobil or ViewRanger) and save the planned tour (and pack an external battery, as the smartphones discharge quickly in the cold).

Note: This snowshoe tour was supported by Arosa Lenzerheide. Thank you very much for this. All impressions and opinions are, as always, ours.