Jasper National Park – an icy affair

Yawning emptiness. In contrast to the hustle and bustle of the summer high season, there are only a few noses to be found in Jasper’s shopping mile in the winter months. Jasper itself is the only village within the seemingly limitless wilderness of Jasper National Park. “This is the right place to experience the groove of a Canadian community,” says ski guide Milt the day after my arrival at the last leg of my road trip through the Canadian Rockies. But don’t be fooled by the small-town cosiness. Jasper is the ideal starting point to explore the winter wonderland in Jasper National Park and it has it thick as a fist behind the ears. All the bubbling rivers and crystal-clear lakes that attract guests from all over the world in summer are transformed into an icy magical world in winter.

Pyramid Lake in Jasper National Park

With almost 11,000^km2, Jasper National Park is the largest national park in the Canadian Rockies and a so-called Dark Sky Preserve. Since Jasper is the only settlement within the park, light pollution is limited. A paradise for stargazers and night owls. I briefly pondered about a night outside in complete darkness, but then I was too scared that I would be integrated into a wolf howling concert. Instead, I set the alarm clock and drove with the first morning light to Pyramid Lake, which is just a 15-minute drive above Jasper. From the frozen lake there is a phenomenal view over the plain to the adjacent peaks. Ice cold but beautiful. By the time the first rays of sunshine have finally peeked out from behind the hill, the feeling has left my fingertips to keep the more important body functions warm. But freezing is definitely not in vain. The morning atmosphere around Pyramid Lake and the slightly lower Patricia Lake with a lonely canoe waiting for summer is unique.

Maligne Canyon

Freezing cold also pulls around your ears in Maligne Canyon. I explore the canyon, which is actually not a canyon at all, but a karst cave open to the top with SunDog Tours. The company offers various guided outdoor activities in winter. The fact that Jasper is really a bit of a sleepy nest in winter is shown by the fact that there are only four of us on the tour. Two Dutchmen, the guide and me. A nice bunch. In contrast to the Johnston Canyon Icewalk in Banff, here you really get up close and personal with the canyon. After a half-hour walk, we climb over a barrier and, poof, stand on the frozen river. The water in the canyon comes from Medicine Lake further up, where it drains through the karst system in one of the world’s largest underground river systems. Without a guide, this excursion is not really recommended, because the ice layer cannot be blindly trusted. In some cases, wafer-thin layers form over deep cavities. With the instructions of our guide and the rubber boots with ice studs handed out beforehand, we slowly feel our way forward. In between, a layer of ice breaks through ankle-deep and each time my heart stops for a moment because of sheer fright. The adventure is always worth it, despite all the scrambling over the slippery ground. The highlights are the two icy waterfalls – particularly popular with ice climbers and a narrow passage called “the Chapel”. It’s hard to believe, but here deep down in the canyon wedding ceremonies take place from time to time.

Maligne Lake

The further you move towards Maligne Lake, the more icy things become. At least as far as road conditions are concerned. Spurred on by the fact that there is a high chance of encountering a moose on this route, I tackled the 45-kilometer drive to Maligne Lake. Unfortunately, the moose did not show up, but the trip offered enough other views. Technically, this track was a challenge. Thick sheets of ice required my correspondingly high level of attention and foresight, as a lurch was virtually unavoidable during braking manoeuvres. I stopped at Medicine Lake, where only one river meanders in winter, and at Maligne Lake, which is a popular destination for snowshoe tours.

Marmot Basin

On the other hand, the slopes in Marmot Basin, the only ski area in the Jasper National Park, were not at all slippery but surprisingly grippy. Personally, I didn’t expect much from this ski resort and was pleasantly surprised. If I had to choose a favorite after this trip, I would probably give Marmot Basin the gold crown. The only catch to Marmot Basin is that, unlike Mt Norquay, Sunshine and Lake Louise, it is isolated and does not offer the possibility of ski resort hopping. On the other hand, Jasper’s local mountain was blessed with the most snow at least this year and offered me a sunny view of the sea of fog and perfectly groomed slopes in the early morning hours. My Skigiude Milt Gilmour makes sure that I have skied at least every blue slope once. I was particularly taken with the descent with the aptly named “Paradise”, which started at the mountain station of the Canadian Rocky Express and leads down to the valley station with wonderful turns. Small but nice – that’s how I would describe Marmot Basin and can recommend everyone to plan a day of skiing. If you are travelling without equipment, you can easily rent the skis directly at the valley station. Last but not least, I got to feel what a really cold day on the slopes feels like. Around noon, the pleasant temperatures were blown away from one minute to the next by a freezing cold wind. With chairlifts without weather protection hoods, you are quickly frozen to the bone and are happy to swap the slopes for a warm place in the restaurant.

Cost of day ski pass 85 CAD – More info: Skimarmot.com

Jasper Downtown

In Jasper itself, I only spent the evening hours. I stayed at the Sawridge Inn, whose bright and spacious rooms with wooden floors are great. The location is suboptimal. The hotel is located on the axis of Jasper and you can’t really get to the center on foot due to the lack of a sidewalk. The internet is free, but unfortunately slow to snore – maybe there will be an update. For example, you can eat easily at the Famoso Neapolitan Pizzeria (607 Patricia Street) – I can also recommend the salad – pizza combo – and at the Jasper Brewing Company.

This trip in Jasper National Park was supported by Travel Alberta and Canusa – thank you very much! As always, my readers can be sure that I always represent my views and enthusiasm.