Beautiful Christmas market in Piedmont: the Mercatini di Natale in Santa Maria Maggiore

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With the selection of Christmas markets taking place these days, it’s not easy to pick out one that deserves a special mention. But when looking across the border, there are still one or two remarkable Advent magic to discover. These include the traditional three-day Mercatini di Natale in Santa Maria Maggiore in Valle Vigezzo. And if you roll your eyes and think: Great, I’ll never get there in a reasonable time – wrong! The best thing about Mercatini di Natale is that it can be reached as a day trip from German-speaking Switzerland. There are even one or two stops on the way to the most beautiful Christmas market in Piedmont!

Day trip to Domodossola / Valle Vigezzo

I made such a day trip on the first of the three days of the Mercatini di Natale and boarded the train in Zurich shortly after seven o’clock in the morning. If you live in the Bern region, you can turn around in your comfortably warm bed at this point and continue dreaming. You don’t have to get up so early and can comfortably take a seat in the BLS RegioExpress Lötschberger an hour later and travel all the way to Domodossola. And while we look through the train window at a cloudy fog soup in the Swiss Plateau, the sun smiles at us on the Simplon. I would think that’s one of the reasons why a pre-Christmas trip to Piedmont is always worthwhile!

Detour to the Sacro Monte di Domodossola

Before I take the Vigezzina-Centovalli cable car from Domodossola to Valle Vigezzo for a good thirty minutes, I use the sunny morning for a detour to the Sacro Monte di Domodossola. The Mattarella hill, which is located directly behind the town centre of Domodossola, has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2003 together with eight other Sacri Monti in northern Italy and offers a magnificent view over the small town and the Alps towering behind it.

From the city centre, the walk to the Sacro Monte Calvario/Domodossola complex takes about 40 minutes. So that Google doesn’t guide you along unattractive side roads, it’s best to mark Via Mattarella as your starting point. I follow this road in a southwesterly direction to the outskirts of the city. As soon as the road branches off, I turn left into Via al Calvario, where after a few meters a signpost indicates the direction.

The ascent to Monte Calvario is signposted from this point with a walking time of 20 minutes. At the top, in addition to a wonderful view, you can also expect benches placed in the park to linger and soak up the December sun. Splendid!

On the way back, I make a detour through the old town of Domodossola. The German-speaking Swiss are probably familiar with the legendary market in particular. I am of the opinion that on market Saturday the charm of the pretty old town alleys almost disappears a bit, which is a pity. Either way, a stroll through Piazza del Mercato is worth it every day. If your stomach is already rumbling at this point (or at least you feel the need for a strong caffè), I recommend a stop at Sali&Pistacchi. The tables in Piazza del Mercato, perfectly aligned with the winter sun, are also popular with the locals and fill up quickly.

With the Vigezzina-Centovalli Railway to Valle Vigezzo

Fortified with a pea soup and warmed up by the sun’s rays, I set off towards Santa Maria Maggiore after lunch. GA travelcard/day ticket is valid on the Vigezzina-Centovalli railway – a surcharge of 1.50 euros/CHF must be paid for panoramic trains (money is collected on the train). It is possible to reserve a seat for 4 euros. On the weekend of the Marcatini di Natale, free reservations are distributed at the Domodossola train station. However, there was enough space on my trip anyway, so that this would not have been absolutely necessary.

Regardless of this, the ride on the narrow-gauge railway is a highlight in itself. This winds its way curve after curve from Domodossola up to Valle Vigezzo. Over high stone arch bridges we cross deeply cut valleys, drive past rustici nestled together and catch a glimpse of striking church towers from time to time.

Highlight in the run-up to Christmas: the Mercatini di Natale in Santa Maria Maggiore

When you get off the train in Santa Maria Maggiore, you can see that the people of Santa Maria Maggiore are among the most experienced Christmas market organisers. Directly from the train station, everything is signposted piccobello and we are guided directly to the first market stalls, which stretch from there across the town center.

In various places, the Mercatini di Natale in Santa Maria Maggiore is touted as the most beautiful and largest Christmas market in Piedmont – or even in the whole of Italy. Accordingly, I had prepared myself for the fact that it could already be pushed in the afternoon. But nothing there! The number of visitors on Friday afternoon is manageable and I can stroll from booth to booth in the direction of Piazza Risorgimento without haste.

Here in Santa Maria Maggiore it is freezing cold and the sun has already retreated behind the mountain flanks early in the afternoon. Fortunately, flickering “wood-burning stoves” at regular intervals provide some warmth. Those who are allowed to sell something at the 200 stalls and 10 chalets are carefully selected. The focus is on local handicrafts and regional specialties. From handmade soap to knitted products to wood carvings, you will find many beautiful decoration and gift ideas here.

A highlight for me are the musical interludes and performances, which provide entertainment and a good atmosphere; including two “chainsaw artists” who use their chainsaws to transform tree trunks into works of art, as well as the groovy musical interludes of the Dirty Dixie Jazz Band.

You can warm up not only at the wood-burning stoves, but also in the Old Town Hall, where a beautifully curated exhibition about the craft of basket weaving is shown. It is also warm in the Museo dello Spazzacamino. The Chimney Sweep Museum is dedicated to one of the once traditional professions of the Vigezzo Valley and is also open during the three-day Christmas market (otherwise closed in winter).

Something you should try when visiting Marcatini di Natale is the crêpe-like pastry called “Stinchett”. The flour dough is baked over the fire, then spread with a little butter and salted – a hearty snack for 1.50 euros. In addition to many fine regional products, there is also locally brewed beer to buy as a souvenir. The shop of Birrificio Ossolano is definitely worth a visit!

Practical tips for visiting the Mercatini di Natale in Valle Vigezzo

• The three-day Christmas market in Santa Maria Maggiore takes place every year in the first half of December (around the Immaculate Conception) and lasts from 9:30 a.m. to 6:30 p.m.
• On the website linked below you will find the latest information about the Christmas market: Mercatini di Natale Santa Maria Maggiore
• Santa Maria Maggiore can be reached from both Domodossola and Locarno by the Vigezzo-Centovalli railway. Swiss train tickets (GA/day ticket) are valid on this route. Surcharges must be paid for reservations and travel on the panorama train.

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With GA travelcard or day ticket, the route Domodossola – Santa Maria Maggiore (round trip) is included. Seat reservations can be made in advance via the BLS Travel Centre. There is also a new free audio guide for the Centovalli Express. All further information can be found here: Christmas Market Santa Maria Maggiore

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• One week after the Mercatini di Natale in Santa Maria Maggiore, the Christmas market in Domodossola takes place
• Between November and March, guided tours of Domodossola and the Sacro Monte are held every Saturday. Meeting point is at 09:30 a.m. and the cost is 55 euros for adults (with a minimum of 6 participants).
• On my blog you will also find a hiking tip for Valle Vigezzo. And if you’re planning a trip to Domodossola in the summer months, then I have a tip for a bite to eat around the Sacro Monte.