Mont Cervin Palace – winter enjoyment in Zermatt

The view from our room window makes my heart beat faster. It’s half past 8 o’clock in the morning and the first rays of sunshine make the top of the Matterhorn glow. A day in Zermatt could hardly start in a more clichéd way and the winter fairy tale is far from over, because a flawless winter day with 15 centimetres of fresh powder snow awaits us.

We started our winter weekend the day before. After I went on a winter hike in Zermatt last winter and then hiked almost all the lakes in summer, we finally want to explore the legendary slopes of the Matterhorn Ski Paradise this weekend.

Even the train ride from Visp through the narrow Matter Valley is a first highlight. The train is well filled, the promising weather forecast seems to have gotten around. From Zermatt train station to our accommodation it takes just under 5 minutes on foot. It is located in a prime location directly on the Bahnhofstrasse.

Experience tradition and luxury

We are guests at the legendary Mont Cervin Palace this weekend. Built in 1862, this 5-star hotel is one of the most important hotels in Zermatt’s tourist history. Like the oldest hotel – the Monte Rosa – it was built by Alexander Seiler. If you visit Zermatlantis – the Matterhorn Museum – (which I can warmly recommend, because the museum is incredibly well done), you will get exciting insights into the adventurous mountaineering times at the Hotel Monte Rosa.

As soon as we have passed the entrance door to the Mont Cervin Palace, we are taken care of. Hospitality qualities are taken seriously here. The porter takes our skis and luggage, then the check-in is done quickly and the concierge provides us with the winter hiking map. We don’t want to let the afternoon pass by unused and, after a short exploration through the lobby and the chic bar, we plunge into our first snow adventure.

Winter hiking paradise with pitfalls

With over 65 kilometres of signposted winter hiking trails, Zermatt offers an almost inexhaustible choice of routes. We walk from Mont Cervin Palace to the valley station of the Matterhorn Express railway, which takes us all the way to Furi. From here we hike comfortably on a steadily ascending path to the Stafelalp. The trail is located on the shady slope, but you will be rewarded with an unusual view of the Matterhorn. As we want to start our way back on the sunny side through the Zmutt valley, we are abruptly slowed down after the idyllic hamlet of Zmutt with around 20 sun-tanned wooden houses in typical Valais style. Unfortunately, the trail is closed due to avalanche warnings. Despite the advanced time, we have no choice but to make our way back via Furi. Avalanche warnings should always be taken seriously! That’s why I recommend that you inform yourself about the open routes on site, especially on warm days, and plan enough time for detours and unforeseen events (for example, the section of the trail mentioned above was only closed in the late afternoon).

Homely bedding

Back at the Mont Cervin Palace, the next surprise follows. “We’ve got an upgrade for you,” says the nice lady at the front desk as she hands me my room key. Well, we like upgrades of course and follow the lady through an underground maze. Although, upgrade is just the first name! When we open our room door, we are standing in the middle of a bombastic chalet suite in the Petit Cervin. The Petit Cervin is a hotel within a hotel, so to speak, and is directly connected to the Mont Cervin Palace in the basement (hence the walk through the corridors).

Our suite enchants with its homely smell of wood, rustic furniture, alpine charm and modern details. For the weekend, we can really indulge in luxury and are master of a living room, a bedroom with a view of the Matterhorn and two bathrooms. Wow, you can’t help but be thrilled!

Recharge your batteries

To relax the tired leg muscles (even winter hiking can be strenuous), we go to the wellness area of the Mont Cevin Palace. At over 1,700^m2, indoor and outdoor pools and a sauna area offer the perfect setting for some relaxation after an active day in the mountains. After a short detour to the outdoor pool, we relax in the bio sauna.

Taste island dreams

If you want to eat in a better restaurant on a Saturday evening in Zermatt, you would do well to make a reservation in advance. We go to the fourth floor of the Petit Cervin and, with luck, get a free table at the Ristorante Capri. Awarded 16 GaultMillau and one Michelin star, the restaurant offers refined Italian cuisine served by the Capri Palace’s kitchen crew (a unique concept – as the Capri Palace closes the hotel in winter). With a view of intense snow flurries over Zermatt (and the anticipation of the following day), we feast our way through the “Menu Traditional” (price 140 CHF per person).

Pure winter enjoyment in all its facets – perfect!

Info and tips:

• Until the end of April it is winter holiday season at Mont Cervin Palace – Click here for the winter offers
• Winter and music can be combined at Zermatt Unplugged from 8 to 12 April
• Entrance fee Zermatlantis adults 10 CHF / children up to 9 free / from 9 to 16 years 5 CHF
• On the Zermatt website you will find all winter hiking trails with up-to-date information
• More route suggestions can be found on Globaltrails.ch

Note: My stay in Zermatt was supported by the Mont Cervin Palace – thank you very much for this. As always, my readers can be sure that I always represent my views and enthusiasm here.