On old paths through Val Vigezzo

How many times have I driven carelessly through this valley, my thoughts already full of anticipation at the delicious selection of gelati on the shores of Lake Maggiore. It was almost a tradition. The journey through the Simplon Tunnel to Domodossola, from there with the Centovalli Railway to Locarno to escape the grey winter weather in the Swiss Plateau for a short time. At the time, I didn’t pay any significant attention to the short piece of Italy we crossed on the way.

But this time everything is different. Instead of gelati fun in Locarno, a hiking adventure in Val Vigezzo awaits me. The history of the valley, enclosed by high wooded mountain ranges, dates back to Roman times. For many centuries it was a contested area and was depleted by poverty and emigration. Today, the valley is a popular holiday region for nature lovers and outdoor enthusiasts.

Start of the hike in Druogno

From Domodossola to the starting point of our tour, the ride on the Centovalli cable car takes just under half an hour. From the train we overlook the wild valley landscape through which we will hike. Instead of taking the old valley path directly in Druogno, we let ourselves be seduced by the signposts and spontaneously decide to take a detour to the higher villages of Sagrogno and Albogno. As soon as you leave the village, the good signage stops. We are confronted with seemingly impenetrable thickets. Status: Find your own way.

Sagrogno – the most beautiful village in the valley

In contrast to Switzerland, where you will find perfectly groomed hiking trails almost everywhere, you can still feel a touch of adventure when hiking in Piemonte, just a few kilometres from the national border, thanks to the lack of signposts and strangely branching paths.

After a steep climb through the forest, over dry stone walls and across a dung heap, we stand in front of the small village of Sagrogno. Not only the village dogs are happy about the visit, but also Theresia. For several years now, the Thun native has been living year in and year out in the “most beautiful village in the valley”, as she proudly tells us. In winter, she, her husband and their three dogs are the only residents up here. We, too, immediately take this pretty spot to our hearts.

Through enchanted forests down into the valley in Val Vigezoo

After a short chat and an interesting insight into the old stone houses, we move on. On wide gravel paths we walk through secluded forests, past Albogno, which delights us with its pretty church in front of the magnificent mountain panorama of the Monte Rosa massif, on to Coimo.

Marone – bedrückend still

Here our path branches off towards the bottom of the valley. After a steep descent, we have to follow the road for a short distance until we reach an old arched bridge. Here we cross the Melezzo Orientale and climb the shady valley flank opposite. Halfway up is the village of Marone, abandoned for over thirty years. Between the slowly crumbling stone buildings, there is an oppressive atmosphere. In addition to crumbling stones and wildly growing branches, however, there is a building that has been knocked out – the cemetery. To this day, relatives from the neighbouring villages care for the graves of relatives who have long since died.

Along the Centovalli Railway through the wilderness

Behind the old church of Marone, we follow the path deep into the forest. Passing impressive bridges of the Centovalli Railway, the hiking trail leads in a varied up and down towards Verigo. The last section to Trontano is a stone’s throw away and offers interesting insights into vineyards and historic mills.

Although at first glance the valley consists only of impenetrable forests, it offers the attentive hiker many surprising treasures along the way.

Practical tips for your hike through Val Vigezzo

The map shows our route. The route is about 11 km long and leads steadily downhill with two exceptions – an approx. 300 m ascent to Sagrogno and a counter climb from the valley floor up to Marone. It took us about 3.5 hours (without major breaks). Both the starting point of Druogno and the destination of Trontano can be reached by the Centovalli Railway from Domodossola or Locarno.

Key data of the hike Druogno – Trontano

Starting point	Bahnhof Druogno
Length	10.7 kilometers
Elevation gain	↗ 419 m 721 m ↘
Duration	3:30 p.m.
Destination	Bahnhof Trontano