Cross-country skiing in the Engadine: Winter weekend at the Parkhotel Margna Sils

Advertising: Contribution in cooperation with the Parkhotel Margna Sils

A hotel where you can “plunge into adventure” on foot, with snowshoes or cross-country skis right outside the hotel door. A location that allows you to enjoy the winter landscape without gondola rides and without long queues. These were our search criteria when we were looking for a suitable location for a few mountain days in the Engadine last winter. The Parkhotel Margna in the tranquil town of Sils Baselgia was able to meet these criteria.

The four-star superior hotel with over 200 years of history has been extensively renovated over the last four years. While we only experienced an “intermediate stage” last winter, the “rejuvenation cure” was completed at the beginning of the 2021/2022 winter season. The Margna is now completely rejuvenated.

And since we have fond memories of the house as well as the Engadine winter landscape, we made our way back to Sils at the beginning of January. From this detour we not only brought back numerous impressions from the hotel walls, but also made the Sils cross-country ski trails unsafe.

A reunion with the Parkhotel Margna Sils

The Parkhotel Margna is made up of different building periods, with the oldest part of the building being built at the beginning of the 19th century as the patrician house of the confectioner Johann Josty. It was in this oldest part of the building that we stayed last winter. But due to the staircase newly designed in the summer of 2021, which now connects all floors with a spacious elevator without obstacles, I have to reorient myself at first.

“Wasn’t the stairs on the other side last winter?” I ask, irritated. Simona Seiler, who has been running the Parkhotel Margna together with her husband Luzi since spring 2017, says yes. And says with a laugh that she has kept this major construction site on its toes over the summer. It is all the more astonishing how everything now appears to be from a single mould again. Old stone floor, homely pine wood – simply beautiful!

Rejuvenated – that’s what has happened at the Parkhotel Margna

This time we are accommodated on the 4th floor in one of the 33 rooms that have been refreshed in recent years. Old beams, modern accents and a magnificent view towards the Fex Valley – yes, it’s a good place to spend a weekend. After checking in, we will go on a tour of the hotel. Apart from the stairwell, what else has changed since last winter?

One innovation is the uniform signage, which guides me unerringly through the corridors. Another new addition is the so-called “Butia” (Romansh for boutique). Here, the Margna offers homemade specialties. The offer is complemented by products from local producers, artists and Marga suppliers (e.g. wine). Where the “Fümuar” was last winter, an inviting, bright library has been created.

And “quite spontaneously”, as Simona Seiler tells me, they decided in September to give the Restorant dal Parc, including Stüvetta, a new look. The result is impressive.

After this tour – which also includes a detour to the newly created gourmet cellar, where the Fümuar has found its new place next to the Vinoteca, the cinema with children’s playroom and the Enoteca & Osteria Murütsch – our stomachs growl. Time for the daily changing 4-course evening menu at Restorant dal Parc.

Prelude to a winter’s day in Sils

The next morning we are woken up by the sun’s rays peeking out from behind the flanks of Corvatsch. The first harbingers of a glorious winter’s day. Before we venture out into the freezing cold Engadine winter landscape, we fortify ourselves at the breakfast buffet of the Restorant dal Parc.

Afterwards we do what we already appreciated so much last winter at the Parkhotel Margna: We march through the hotel door and follow the winter hiking trail through Sils Maria and further up the steep gorge path until the plateau of the Fex Valley opens up in front of us. The winter hiking opportunities in the Fex Valley are diverse. Depending on your desire, mood and personal fitness, you can vary the distances. To get to Alp Muot Selvas (about 7 kilometres), you have to take about two hours to walk. For the way back, it is possible to change to the horse-drawn carriage at the Hotel Fex (cost one-way with a pair of horses for 1 to 4 people: 110 CHF).

And then: off to the cross-country ski trail in the Engadine

This morning we only get as far as Curtins. Then the approaching cross-country skiing lesson pushes us back towards Sils. Today we want to venture onto the cross-country ski trails in front of the Parkhotel Margna. For this purpose, we have reserved skating skis including boots and poles for one day in advance at the Sils Intersport shop “La Fainera” (cost: 49 CHF per person) and booked a one-hour private course (cost: 110 CHF for 2 people) through the Corvatsch ski school. Alternatively, you can also rent cross-country skiing equipment on site at Giovanoli Sport.

I have already gained my first cross-country skiing experience. However, since technique is crucial in skating, the input of professionals, including corresponding “exercises”, is very valuable. The meeting point for the cross-country skiing lessons is at the entrance to the Sils cross-country ski trail next to the ice rink – also within walking distance of the hotel.

Well-deserved after-sport program

After an intensive one-hour lesson with the sympathetic and committed Anita (finally a name I could remember ;)), we continue to hone our technique on a lap over the plateau between Lake Sils and Lake Silvaplana and are then exhausted. Skating looks easy – but as long as the technique is not yet automated, it is really exhausting. Time for a refreshment in the cosy hotel bar of the Margna. In addition to classics such as Graubünden barley soup and capuns (also available as a vegetarian version), the daily menu now also includes delicious pinsas. Perfect for sharing – especially because it leaves enough appetite for a piece of oven-warm apple strudel with vanilla sauce. Delicious!

Afterwards, we let our tired muscles bubble through in the whirlpool of “La Funtauna”. The wellness area of the Parkhotel Margna is small but nice. In addition to the whirlpool, there is a sanarium, a Finnish sauna, experience showers, a steam bath, an open-air terrace to cool off and a relaxation room with a view of the mountains. Perfect for slowing down after a sporty day.

Spoilt for choice – the Margna Gourmet Carousel

While it is slowly getting dark outside, we go to the gourmet cellar for the second dinner this weekend. With the reopened Enoteca & Osteria Murütsch in the former coachman’s room in the cellar vault, guests of the Parkhotel Margna now have the choice between three restaurants; the 4-course evening menu at Restorant dal Parc, Graubünden and Valtellina specialties at Stüva 1817 (which we tried last year and can also recommend) as well as Italian market cuisine accompanied by matching wines at Enoteca & Osteria Murütsch.

For all those who, like us, find it difficult to decide on this selection, the Parkhotel Margna has created the “Gourmet Carousel“. This includes a 4-course evening menu in the Restorant dal Parc and a 3-course à la carte menu in the Stüva and the Murütsch at a flat rate of CHF 215 per person.

And poof, our second winter stay at the Parkhotel Margna is already history. If you are looking for a stylish and at the same time uncomplicated, cosy hotel directly on the extensive Upper Engadine network of cross-country ski trails, you will feel at home here.

Practical tips for your cross-country skiing weekend in Sils in the Engadine

• The Parkhotel Margna is easily accessible by public transport via St. Moritz. Directly in front of the hotel is the post bus stop Sils Baselgia, Dotturas.
• In the modern underground car park, which has also been newly built, seven electric charging stations are available for guests.
• Room rates vary depending on the season and category. A small double room can be booked during the winter season from around CHF 320 per night including a daily alpine breakfast buffet with regional products and many other inclusive services.
• Dogs are welcome in the hotel (except for the Restorant dal Parc, the spa and the golf course in summer).
• The winter season lasts from mid-December to Easter. In summer, the Parkhotel Margna opens from mid-June.
• I have summarized more tips on winter hiking trails and snowshoe trails around the Parkhotel Margna in this blog post: 5 beautiful winter hiking trails and snowshoe trails in the Engadine